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The one I'm looking at on Alibaba has a photo of it with an Ioniq 5 and allows you to select the type of plug (US, EU, UK, JP, Universal) so I assume it will work with a US Ioniq 5. But I make no such assumptions for quality. Thanks for the suggestion about EV Cables -I'll check.
EV Cables looks like a great option for Ioniq 5 owners in Europe, but unfortunately they cannot offer a V2L adapter for the US. I'm looking again at Alibaba.
 

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EV Cables looks like a great option for Ioniq 5 owners in Europe, but unfortunately they cannot offer a V2L adapter for the US. I'm looking again at Alibaba.
Make sure it has a type 1 J1772 connector for the car in the USA, not type 2 as used in the UK and Europe. That as well as having US spec AC outlets.

Pete B.
 

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with great gratitude to the efforts of @aviryn
i've constructed a list of items from aliexpress, to be able to make your own V2L (this is for the type2 EU version)

please note, that you will need a 3X2.5mm cable (not in the list) and some short 0.5mm cables

the cables should be soldered to the pinned in the type2 connector, or crimped with a special tool




1. EV Charger Type 2 Adaptor Plug Connector IEC 62196 Male Plug 1 phase 16A (38.5$)

2. 16mm Black Oxide Lighted Metal Push Button Switch Waterproof
ring power red , 110-220V, fixed self-locking (3.5$)

buy also the 1pc socket !! for easy installation (2.5$)

3. one sets 88 Series KUOYUH 15A overload overcurrent protector
1.67$

optional:
4. one PCS Thermostat 10C-240C KSD9700 95C 10A NC (1$)

OR

4.SEKI ST-22 95C (exactly the model in the original v2l)



5. resistor 62 OHM, 1/4 WATT (0.5$ - 2$ for 100pcs)
OR



6. P 66 Weatherproof Waterproof Outdoor BOX Wall Socket 13A Double Universal - EU DOUBLE USB LIGHT (18$)

optional:
7. DIY Mini Digital Voltmeter 22mm Round AC 12-500V Volt Voltage Tester Meter Monitor Power LED Indicator Pilot Lamp Light Display (2$)

8. heat shrink cover for the resistor (3$ for 560PC !)

enjoy
 

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with great gratitude to the efforts of @aviryn
i've constructed a list of items from aliexpress, to be able to make your own V2L (this is for the type2 EU version)

please note, that you will need a 3X2.5mm cable (not in the list) and some short 0.5mm cables

the cables should be soldered to the pinned in the type2 connector, or crimped with a special tool




1. EV Charger Type 2 Adaptor Plug Connector IEC 62196 Male Plug 1 phase 16A (38.5$)

2. 16mm Black Oxide Lighted Metal Push Button Switch Waterproof
ring power red , 110-220V, fixed self-locking (3.5$)

buy also the 1pc socket !! for easy installation (2.5$)

3. one sets 88 Series KUOYUH 15A overload overcurrent protector
1.67$

optional:
4. one PCS Thermostat 10C-240C KSD9700 95C 10A NC (1$)

OR

4.SEKI ST-22 95C (exactly the model in the original v2l)



5. resistor 62 OHM, 1/4 WATT (0.5$ - 2$ for 100pcs)
OR



6. P 66 Weatherproof Waterproof Outdoor BOX Wall Socket 13A Double Universal - EU DOUBLE USB LIGHT (18$)

optional:
7. DIY Mini Digital Voltmeter 22mm Round AC 12-500V Volt Voltage Tester Meter Monitor Power LED Indicator Pilot Lamp Light Display (2$)

8. heat shrink cover for the resistor (3$ for 560PC !)

enjoy
As I have mentioned in the Israrli post, I think a small square DVM will fit better. Try buying the DVM after getting the dual socket as it is not so trivial if you want to have a DVM abd a CB.
Airborne CBs (Boeing BAC or similar are expensive but must smaller and easy to fit.
 

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The square DVMs are of no help as the base and nut are the same. There are models the have 2 eyelets, one in each side and if I am not mistsken their height is 20mm and not 23mm of the round one. Depth is also better. The clearance in the socket box is not the same all over the unit.
Close ti the frame the clearance is better.
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD Cyber Gray
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That's incredible. Hopefully we'll have third party V2L adapters soon for cheap.
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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I just tore down my own USA-spec V2L adapter (for a Kia EV6, but same same). Inside the Hyundai/Kia V2L Connector

The takeaways are
  • The J1772 connector has a latch switch that the Type 2 doesn't.
  • Thermal switch and power button short PP and CP when they're both good/on
  • The latch handle connects PP to Neutral with 75 ohms when the latch is closed i.e. the handle is in place, and
  • When the latch is open, PP to Neutral with 500 ohms (i.e. "do not power").
  • Neutral is shorted to ground internally, which is probably ideal and will power an EVSE if you're trying to (slowly) car-to-car charge.

Also, this person can confirm: they bought a Korean connector to plug into their USA car, and only got 120V out. https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/tyqvvn/_/i43t493
Otherwise - I'm pretty bummed that there's definitely no practical avenue for a simple DIY USA-spec 240V/16A out connector. It also makes me worried about the prospect of ever seeing V2G/V2H out of these cars as-is, though I suppose they may have provision for more complicated powerline signaling or something to talk to the right bidirectional EVSE in the future.

On the plus side, at least you can DIY a (maybe even more practical!) adapter for a lot cheaper than $500. I think I'll go about selling mine.

Also, I'd conclude the same as most of you that the internal outlet and the external are internally connected together and to the same single phase off the inverter/charger. Hopefully there's some provision for getting split-phase output in the USA over the J1772, but I'm not holding my breath.
In your photo of the latch switch, I see a 65Ω and a 430Ω if I'm seeing the colors correctly. So given those, it seems like maybe the latch switch has a 10Ω resistor (not visible, but I figure there must be some way to compactly add 10Ω to a connection on a PCB) in parallel with the 430Ω resistor, together in series with the 65Ω, and the switch opens the 10Ω arm? (See attached sketch.)
Handwriting Rectangle Font Material property Wood

I'm looking at rigging up one for myself based on your comments and the shopping list from @A.L. and @aviryn. Probably it can be made a lot more cheaply by someone in China buying these components in bulk rather than by me, $0.10 components shipped halfway across the world one at a time, but I want one sooner rather than later.

One thing that I thought about adding to @A.L.'s list is some vague attempt at waterproofing holes I add, like this:
The feyree J1772 plug doesn't have much room on the top as a result of the latch, so I may have to minimize switches and drop the DVM to save space:
Ordering components with free shipping, so I can take a first stab at something starting in July, maybe earlier if I skip some of the slower-shipping pieces.
 

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Good observation on 65/430ohms. The EXACT measurements externally are 75.5ohm latch-closed, and 505ohm latch-open. I find it weird they used 1% resistors, but those are both within 1% so that tracks. I'm not sure where the extra precisely-10ohms is coming from, but its in both paths (rather than just being there when the switch is closed.

EDIT: I wonder if the 10r is in-line with the PE connection of the switch circuit board, to minimize fault current in some kind of scenario.
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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If anyone else in North America wants to take a crack at it and can't wait, here's my tentative shopping list based on @A.L.'s list for the type 2 adapter and @alexw's post about the North American adapter (optimized for shipping to Canada, probably some slightly different choices will be cheaper for shipping to the US). Selected options from the product page are shown in bold.

Housing:

US $47.93 | feyree EV Charger Plug SAE J1772 Connector Type 1 16A
As far as I can tell, it includes a latch switch.

Switches and safety switches:

US $0.50 | Bimetal thermostat KSD301 0C~350C Temperature Switch Thermal Control 95C Degree

US $1.67 + $1.61 shipping | 1sets 88 Series KUOYUH 15A overload overcurrent protector

US $0.70 |12mm fixed self-locking 100-240V Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch LED Light Momentary Latching Car Engine Power Switch
Slightly smaller than the one @A.L. posted. As far as I can tell, includes an o-ring and metal nut. Hopefully that makes a good enough watertight seal!

Resistors:

US $3.99 | 560pcs 56 Values 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor Assorted Kit Set 1 ohm ~ 10M ohm Electronic lovers Resistor
Something in here will work to make 500 ohms and 75 ohms depending on the latch switch.

Voltage indicator:

US $1.02 | Mini Digital Voltmeter 22mm Round AC 60-500V Volt Voltage Tester Meter Monitor Power LED Indicator Pilot Lamp Light Display
This probably won't fit, but hey, worth spending a buck in case it does. Seems to include a rubber washer and plastic nut. A metal M22 might be worth the upgrade.

Heat shrink tubing:

US $1.67+$1.82+$2.77 | 10 Meter Waterproof Heat Shrink Tube Data Line Thicken Insulating Sleeve Universal Wire Protection Heat-shrinkable Sleeve 3mm, 4mm and 8mm
I've never used heat shrink tubing so I have no idea what I need and ordered a bunch.

Wire:

US $2.90 | Ultra Soft Silicone Rubber Cable 2 Cores Insulated Flexible Copper High Temperature Wire 2 meters of 2.5mm^2
I don't know if there will be setscrews in the socket and plug housing to secure this.

I imagine some solid core wire without a sheath would be good in the plug, but I didn't quickly find anything. Instead, I got this:
US $1.05+$2.79 | Copper Wire Silicone Rubber Cable Super Soft 14 and 20 AWG 2Pins Flexible DIY LED Lamp Connector Black Red

Outlet:

US $15.84 | Outdoor Mobile Industrial Socket Box MCB RCBO 110V 16A Waterproof Switching Power Control Box Wall Installation IP54
2 socket box, internal wiring, US/China

I'll update when I have it all here and have taken a shot at building something, but since the shipping time on some components is 2 months, figured I'd share my list now.
 

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I broke down and ordered a J1772 handle to whip up my own so I can hopefully sell the OEM version while it's still hot.

@Tyler some thoughts about that list:
  • The switch looks great, independent switch circuit and 240V-tolerant LED. Assuming it does as it says, very convenient. I'll probably omit the switch entirely though, I don't see a reason to even have it.
  • The thermal cutoff is totally overkill - it's only relevant if you can put it on the female plug contacts, so if you're using an extension cord end like I plan to, it's irrelevant. I think it's totally overkill even in the original design, but at least in that case the outlet catching fire implies fire making its way up to the charge port, so it makes a bit of sense I guess.
  • Very much more so, I can say the overcurrent protector is totally unnecessary. The car has much more precise and reliable overcurrent protection built-in than any external device could offer (which is why the OEM adapter doesn't even have a fuse).
 

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I broke down and ordered a J1772 handle to whip up my own so I can hopefully sell the OEM version while it's still hot.

@Tyler some thoughts about that list:
  • The switch looks great, independent switch circuit and 240V-tolerant LED. Assuming it does as it says, very convenient. I'll probably omit the switch entirely though, I don't see a reason to even have it.
  • The thermal cutoff is totally overkill - it's only relevant if you can put it on the female plug contacts, so if you're using an extension cord end like I plan to, it's irrelevant. I think it's totally overkill even in the original design, but at least in that case the outlet catching fire implies fire making its way up to the charge port, so it makes a bit of sense I guess.
  • Very much more so, I can say the overcurrent protector is totally unnecessary. The car has much more precise and reliable overcurrent protection built-in than any external device could offer (which is why the OEM adapter doesn't even have a fuse).
In your post, didn't you say the thermal cutoff could make sense for corroded contacts? Seems also like potentially a good idea if I'm not 100% sure about my waterproofing, or even my contacts at the J1772 end. Good point about the car current limit and switch. I'll see if I can fit the switch and thermal protector but will drop them if not.
 

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If anyone else in North America wants to take a crack at it and can't wait, here's my tentative shopping list (optimized for shipping to Canada, probably some slightly cheaper choices for shipping to the US):
US $47.93: feyree EV Charger Plug SAE J1772 Connector Type 1 16A
US $0.70 12mm Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch LED Light, fixed self-locking, 100-240V (more compact than the item @A.L. l

In your post, didn't you say the thermal cutoff could make sense for corroded contacts? Seems also like potentially a good idea if I'm not 100% sure about my waterproofing, or even my contacts at the J1772 end. Good point about the car current limit and switch. I'll see if I can fit the switch and thermal protector but will drop them if not.
Yes, but it depends on being in close contact with the metal of those contacts, so it depends how you’re implementing the outlet side. Anything less custom than what Hyundai themselves did probably won’t accomplish much.

Also the consequence of your extension cord end melting to slag is very little, vs if the V2L Adapter melts to slag, it messes up the charge port. In other words, if your outlet isn’t co-located with the j1772 plug, I think the failure risk is a lot lower.
 

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If anyone else in North America wants to take a crack at it and can't wait, here's my tentative shopping list (optimized for shipping to Canada, probably some slightly cheaper choices for shipping to the US):
US $47.93: feyree EV Charger Plug SAE J1772 Connector Type 1 16A
US $0.70 12mm Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch LED Light, fixed self-locking, 100-240V (more compact than the item @A.L. l

In your post, didn't you say the thermal cutoff could make sense for corroded contacts? Seems also like potentially a good idea if I'm not 100% sure about my waterproofing, or even my contacts at the J1772 end. Good point about the car current limit and switch. I'll see if I can fit the switch and thermal protector but will drop them if not.
To make things clear, tgecJ1772 that was posted has a very dhort neck so the off/on switch will be hard to impossible to fit. In my post you can see the marking on my J1772 plug. You should place it with a socket as far as posdible from the back of the charging plug. You should also put a shrink and glue the resistor.
One more tip. Drill the charging plug with a metal drill and not a wood drill. The wood drill creates debris around the hole.
If you use the same plug as I did, create 2 nitches on both sides of the front of handle so you will have a place to push a flat screwdriver and eject the plug if something happens. Also put some silicon grease around the front of the handle (inside) so you will have a soomth insertion and ejection of the plug.
 

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I broke down and ordered a J1772 handle to whip up my own so I can hopefully sell the OEM version while it's still hot.

@Tyler some thoughts about that list:
  • The switch looks great, independent switch circuit and 240V-tolerant LED. Assuming it does as it says, very convenient. I'll probably omit the switch entirely though, I don't see a reason to even have it.
  • The thermal cutoff is totally overkill - it's only relevant if you can put it on the female plug contacts, so if you're using an extension cord end like I plan to, it's irrelevant. I think it's totally overkill even in the original design, but at least in that case the outlet catching fire implies fire making its way up to the charge port, so it makes a bit of sense I guess.
  • Very much more so, I can say the overcurrent protector is totally unnecessary. The car has much more precise and reliable overcurrent protection built-in than any external device could offer (which is why the OEM adapter doesn't even have a fuse).
hi, i think the switch is important. from what i remember, you need it in order for the car to start/stop the discharge process. maybe in the US version (type1) the latch does that.
but this is what i remember from the discussion.

about selling an oem version. i suggest you get yourself a good insurance plan. if something goes wrong for someone, . they will sue . and you might get into trouble.
 

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hi, i think the switch is important. from what i remember, you need it in order for the car to start/stop the discharge process. maybe in the US version (type1) the latch does that.
but this is what i remember from the discussion.

about selling an oem version. i suggest you get yourself a good insurance plan. if something goes wrong for someone, . they will sue . and you might get into trouble.
I might not have tested this thoroughly, but I'm pretty sure you can click the switch "on" and just leave it that way, and plug and unplug the adapter as you like. In which case, the switch is "nice to have" but not strictly necessary.

Could be true that, if you hot-plug the Type 2 version, it simply won't ever start, so that you can't hot-unplug it.
 
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