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2019 Ioniq 28kWh
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody done any upgrades to the inifinity sound system? Is there an external amplifier installed from fractory? If so where?

I'm wanting to upgrade the speakers and possibly adding an amplifier. Been looking around a little in the car and found the woofer to be a dual coil 2ohm 8" thingy. I filled the plastic woofer box with nonwowen polyether etc but want to upgrade more really.

For me 3D printing adaptors, changing cabling etc is not a problem.
 

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I'd stay well away from anything like that while the car is under warranty, can you imagine the conversation with Hyundai in your country if any electrical system fails? It'll be blamed on your adaptations and your warranty will be out of the window.
 

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I can imagine you want to upgrade the Infinty system, it sounds bad.
There is an amplifier in the car as you can see in the following video:

Looking at the wiring loom in the video the amplifier should be close to the headunit.
 

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The sound system is particularly bad. My '08 Acura TSX was the first car I left the stock stereo and speakers in. It wasn't great, but it was totally acceptable and I never felt the need to replace it. And I'm a musician so that says something.

On my second drive in the Ioniq, I was like, "Wow that sounds awful. Probably need to tweak the settings." Nope. It's not tweak the tone knobs problem or lack of bass. The system is just terribly voiced. I suspect it is extremely sub par speakers rather than a poorly voiced amp (even mediocre amps are fairly transparent nowadays).

I would recommend replacing the speakers and leave everything else intact. That's my plan for next Spring/Summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can imagine you want to upgrade the Infinty system, it sounds bad.
There is an amplifier in the car as you can see in the following video:

Looking at the wiring loom in the video the amplifier should be close to the headunit.
Wow thanks! Great feedback!

The sound system is particularly bad. My '08 Acura TSX was the first car I left the stock stereo and speakers in. It was great, but it was totally acceptable and I never felt the need to replace it. And I'm a musician so that says something.

On my second drive in the Ioniq, I was like, "Wow that sounds awful. Probably need to tweak the settings." Nope. It's not tweak the tone knobs problem or lack of bass. The system is just terribly voiced. I suspect it is extremely sub par speakers rather than a poorly voiced amp (even mediocre amps are fairly transparent nowadays).

I would recommend replacing the speakers and leave everything else intact. That's my plan for next Spring/Summer.
Thanks! This is my plan. I do however not know which speakers are a good upgrade. My guess is that some speakers would be too heavy on the AMP. I mean there are 8" woofers that weigh 26lb without even trying...

I was looking at the Focal ISU 165 setup for front. Don't know if I would need to change the rear doors too. Do you have any setup you would think is a good upgrade that I can include to my list of stuff to investigate?
 

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Wow thanks! Great feedback!



Thanks! This is my plan. I do however not know which speakers are a good upgrade. My guess is that some speakers would be too heavy on the AMP. I mean there are 8" woofers that weigh 26lb without even trying...

I was looking at the Focal ISU 165 setup for front. Don't know if I would need to change the rear doors too. Do you have any setup you would think is a good upgrade that I can include to my list of stuff to investigate?
Honestly, I've been out of car audio for the last 8 years as I had a perfectly reasonable factory system in that Acura I was driving. That said, any decent quality speakers will probably be an upgrade. I have not looked into what replacements might be.

Regarding speaker power ratings, you can't "overpower" the amp with the speaker, the problem is the other way around. Blowing speakers by pumping in more power than they are rated for. Speakers have an impedance that applies the load to the amp. Just get speakers that are the same impedance as the factory ones. They are probably 4 ohm or 8 ohm. Any decent aftermarket speaker will have RMS power ratings that are surely higher than what the factory amp can put out so there is little risk of blowing the speaker.

Don't go overboard on top quality speakers since you're keeping the factory amp. Just get something decent and reasonably priced. I would replace every speaker in the car if possible. No point leaving something their polluting the airspace with poor audio.

Other than that I have no further details for you as I've gone no further myself other than recognizing the stock system is poorly voiced and I'm gonna try new speakers to fix it.
 

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I would actually start insulating the car and add sound deadening mats in the doors.
In my previous car I added bitumen mats in all doors over the entire surface and some sound absorption behind the woofers. I also added sound absorption under the carpet by the (front and back) wheels and in the trunk around the spare wheel. A lot of sound is coming from behind as well.
 

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It's doable with the base model system over here in the US. And that's with us not having the standard 12v lead/acid battery...

I'd imagine there's a way to upgrade the factory infinity system as well. Not sure about replacing the amp, but you could tie in from the front or rear speaker wires either from the doors or directly behind the head unit most likely.

It's actually easy to get behind the head unit once you know how. Speakers should be easy to replace as long as they're the correct size/ohms. Subs definitely help this car out.

I've set mine up so if there's an issue I can pull the entire thing out in an hour or so and take it in to the dealership just incase they want to blame issues on that. I've had none so far though since this install.

Amp install in US spec Hyundai w/o 12v Battery (Base model system)
 
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Discussion Starter #10
It's doable with the base model system over here in the US. And that's with us not having the standard 12v lead/acid battery...

I'd imagine there's a way to upgrade the factory infinity system as well. Not sure about replacing the amp, but you could tie in from the front or rear speaker wires either from the doors or directly behind the head unit most likely.

It's actually easy to get behind the head unit once you know how. Speakers should be easy to replace as long as they're the correct size/ohms. Subs definitely help this car out.

I've set mine up so if there's an issue I can pull the entire thing out in an hour or so and take it in to the dealership just incase they want to blame issues on that. I've had none so far though since this install.

Amp install in US spec Hyundai w/o 12v Battery (Base model system)
Thanks! Are front and rear speakers both 6.5"?

What about the small center one in the dash? What is that used for?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I ordered speakers. I have no clue what so ever on what is the best fit but I opted to not go for the "Wallmart" speakers. I'm sure there are great branded speakers around, but these companies tent to change their line ups fairly often so very hard to find a proper review. I instead went for a brand called GAS and a level there that was not over the top. Their cheapest 8" woofer with 2x2ohm and a kit on black friday sale with what I hope descent mid range speakers, filters and tweeters. Even with a 50% black friday deal this turned out double the price from "Wallmart" kits. I will se if it works and if not they are capable of handling the proper of an external amp later on.

Fingers crossed, but it's a trail and error....
 

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Thanks! Are front and rear speakers both 6.5"?

What about the small center one in the dash? What is that used for?
I believe so. A guy in that same thread used these and they fit perfectly in the front.

RockFos 6.75" speakers

This is a picture of the stock rear speaker on the US base model hybrid.
32929


As far as the center one, I'm not sure about that one.

He went quite a bit deeper than I did originally with the amp install and did an entire head unit swap including figuring how to wire everything such as the backup camera back up to the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Boom! I need an AMP haha!!!

Made new adapters and got the speakers mounted. I'm happy to share the CAD files if someone wants to print their own adapters...

What a difference!! Surprisingly the tweeters stod out most. Think I need to mount the filters too and fit a proper AMP to power the speakers. Specially the woofer needs more oumpf.

Getting there though and it sounds so much cleaner now.









 

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Boom! I need an AMP haha!!!

Made new adapters and got the speakers mounted. I'm happy to share the CAD files if someone wants to print their own adapters...

What a difference!! Surprisingly the tweeters stod out most. Think I need to mount the filters too and fit a proper AMP to power the speakers. Specially the woofer needs more oumpf.

Getting there though and it sounds so much cleaner now.









I wouldn't mind getting the files. You got them for the front and rear doors?

Also, what about the plug? I've always just cut them off and put my own connections on for the wires, but if you were able to do that it may be a good route to go.

Also, What size speakers did you end up going with? I'm thinking 6.75" in the fronts and 6.5" in the rears for my setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wouldn't mind getting the files. You got them for the front and rear doors?

Also, what about the plug? I've always just cut them off and put my own connections on for the wires, but if you were able to do that it may be a good route to go.

Also, What size speakers did you end up going with? I'm thinking 6.75" in the fronts and 6.5" in the rears for my setup.
Front and rear doors mount the same. Stock speakers are the same size but different design.

I did chop the connector from the stock speaker and used hot glue to fix it to my printed frames. This way I could finish the speaker units indoor and just pop out and screw them in with no cabling needing to be done outdoor.

As the cold and humid weather did not allow me to tape sound dampening material inside the doors I leave that for later.

Will upload and share my adapters in a bit. Thinking I will make it generic without holes for the speaker as they might differ.
 

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Nice work. If you make the holes radial slots, will that work? P.s. anyone can make their own STLs for printing, I use free s'ware OpenSCAD myself. Perfect for exactly this kind of mechanical object, not suited to artistry!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, you can make your own parts and that is really key to like everything! I really don't like downloading parts that are often WAY from even close to good. Better make it from scratch and get it very close to 100%. Uploaded parts are sort of locked and not possible to change. This is why I try to be a step ahead sharing generic rings with no holes in them. It's a 5min operation to drill them after your speakers of choice. I also opt of for the radial holes as most printers found in your home does not have proper support material. Print them with 100% infill and just drill.... easy enough.

Best of all would be to just snag my idéas and make them better! Even though I'm fairly clever nothing is perfect. :)

 

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Ha! in OpenSCAD you can import an existing STL (just drag & drop it into your text-master-file, it creates the import("..."); for you). You can then chop bits off, scale it, shear it,..., and add more, i.e. treat it as a single object just like the built-ins.

The graphics display tends to go bananas on the fast previews, but a ful Render (F6) gets the right picture, bt can be slow. But it generally works!
 
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