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And this also begs the question of if regen in level 0 starts...when does it reset?...ie when do you re-enter the 10 cycles of disc cleaning before more regen...is it after a power cycle...after shifting to P, after selecting regen level other than 0?
I have the same question. So far, just decided to never use level 0. I think my driving style leads to frequent enough application of hydraulic brake pressure to keep the brakes clean. 7 weeks and 2000km after collection, in equatorial climate and the disks appear very nice.
 

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Yes, I've seen/read this several times, and selected regen 0 and left it for whole commutes thinking that the regen would kick in after 10 or so times engaging the friction brakes via the brake pedal but it has never happened. I have never seen any significant regen when level 0 is selected but I have also only done rural commutes of around 25 miles. I just figured my interpretation of the Korengrish in the manual was incorrect. Maybe I'll take an extended drive some weekend and leave it in regen 0 and see if regen upon using the brake pedal eventually starts.

And this also begs the question of if regen in level 0 starts...when does it reset?...ie when do you re-enter the 10 cycles of disc cleaning before more regen...is it after a power cycle...after shifting to P, after selecting regen level other than 0?
I asked Hyundai UK this question about 2 months ago. They seem to be struggling with the answer! I suspect it is a translation issue but am not convinced. It makes no sense to have no regen produced in any circumstances as if the brakes have been ‘cleaned’ then it would be far better to use the regen to assist slowing down. I know the display does show a minuscule amount of regen but I certainly feel nothing and it may just be a display error.
 

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"I know the display does show a minuscule amount of regen but I certainly feel nothing and it may just be a display error."

That minuscule regen seems to provide energy for all auxiliary consumers (electronics, HVAC) so that energy derived from battery pack can be 0 kW.

Energy for the electronics and HVAC is usually 0.3 kW to 2 kW - clearly visible on the centre screen (battery power kW) when car is stationary.
 

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2022 I5 Pref. AWD LR, Ultimate, AWhite
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My Hi5 is RHD. The green wire in pin 13 of connector E of the ICU (aka fuse block) is visible and accessible without removing any trim. It drives some of the brake lights (right side). Other options would be connector D pins 16 (left side brake lights) and 31 (high mount and trailer). Connector D is right next to connector E and both wires are also green, though I did not confirm these alternatives.
Just an FYI. Weird stuffs... Using pin 13 worked great but all of a sudden it only works when the car is OFF. Trying to think back of what I did/change besides washing the car :)
I did the nav update and changed OBD2 dongle to VgateVlinkerMC+. I may try the alternative pins but since I now have Car Scanner working I may just use its Brake Light sensor. Still think it's weird, but that's the way it goes sometimes.
 

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I have experienced road rage as well. I thought it was down to it being an EV because people with powerful acceleration seem to be more aggressive as if trying to race an EV, because most know EVs are quick to accelerate and they feel like they have a point to prove in their ICE cars. I don't like to race on the road, but I use the quick acceleration on my EV - I haven't used it to race anyone sitting in the lane next to me at the lights though. In fact, most such aggressive people either come from behind and overtake aggressively and dangerously sometimes, or at other times, they do so as my car is catching up to them just because they are going slower compared to speed limit and then suddenly they want to accelerate - usually they just speed off and I keep driving at my constant speed at the speed limit by cruise control because I don't want to engage in this foolishness of going at 50, then accelerating to 90 on a road with 70 limit. People figure out it's an EV due to the unique looks, even though I don't even have my number plates with the optional green vertical bar on the side indicating it's an EV, mine are just normal number plates.

I wondered as well at times if the car's brake lights switch on in regen, but my concern was the opposite of what the original post stated - I was worried if the car did not indicate to the one behind that it was decelerating in regen mode, thereby causing them to behave aggressively. Turns out, from various observations here, that it (lights turning on or not) can go either way depending on your regen mode and how you use the pedal.

After having used various modes, I have finally settled on the i-pedal naturally. I just let go of the accelerator pedal or SCC a fraction after when the car in front has its brake lights come on at roundabouts if my cruise distance from car in front is set to minimum (1 horizontal bar) - I mostly use the 1-bar minimum distance setting unless the car in front is a polluting vehicle (an old one, say upto 2009 as a rough rule, so that I can smell the fumes at the close distance of 1-bar) - in these cases I switch to maximum distance (all horizontal bars in the cruise distance) or use internal circulation if I detect the potentially polluting vehicle early before smelling the fumes. For straight-line travel, I just use the smart cruise control and let it handle braking and brake lights - no idea if that causes people behind to get frustrated.

I find smart cruise control (SCC) braking a bit harsher than I like in the final few metres before coming to a full stop at lights/roundabouts, so when using smart cruise control at roundabouts as well as when stopping straight line at lights, I pause the SCC for the final few metres to make braking more gentle but also to avoid the car trying to accelerate at the roundabouts due to an autonomous driving level which only takes into account the obstructions straight ahead and does not consider vehicles approaching from the side at a roundabout.

Summary:
  • Use SCC while cruising, with cruise distance bars adjusted as per need, except:
  • Pause SCC when car has already decelerated mostly due to vehicles ahead, to have a smoother stop (in i-pedal mode), unless it's a 'crawling traffic' situation, where just keep SCC on as it works well (don't know how it handles brake lights then)
  • If want to pause SCC earlier for more manual control, pause it just a fraction later after the brake lights of vehicle in front come on, or even at the same time the brake lights of vehicle in the front come on (i-pedal mode)
  • If want to pause SCC earlier when no vehicles in front, pause it when the distance markers to roundabout are at 2 lines (UK); for motorway exits where no vehicles in front and traffic lights soon after exit, pause just after passing the last (1 bar) marker. This is when in i-pedal mode for regen.

Obviously, this is just how I personally use it and find it works for me, and I can't tell if it will work for you. But based on other posts here, it appears that my brake lights are coming on almost at the same time when the brake lights of the vehicle in front come on because I let go of SCC/accelerator pedal then or where I don't pause SCC it brings lights on anyway due to significant deceleration; and where there isn't a vehicle in front, looks like due to when I pause SCC or let go of accelerator pedal in line with description above thereby engaging i-pedal, they come on with sufficient notice to drivers behind and without causing significant frustration to them. I have naturally settled for putting the car in i-pedal as soon as I start my journey by tapping the left pedal behind the steering twice. I drive in the normal mode, not eco, not sport.

With these rough guidelines, I find minimal need, if ever, to have to accelerate and regen-brake quickly again and again at roundabouts or lights: it is smooth accurate stop mostly; of course sometimes, one does have to additionally use brake pedal due to behaviour of the traffic ahead. I can avoid using the brake pedal mostly with this usage pattern, with brake lights coming on more in line with expectations of others behind me.
 

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I asked Hyundai UK this question about 2 months ago. They seem to be struggling with the answer! I suspect it is a translation issue but am not convinced. It makes no sense to have no regen produced in any circumstances as if the brakes have been ‘cleaned’ then it would be far better to use the regen to assist slowing down. I know the display does show a minuscule amount of regen but I certainly feel nothing and it may just be a display error.
I’ve just driven in Sport mode regen level 0. At the start of the journey it was definitely using friction braking. After a few miles it switched to regen with the amount of regen increasing the harder I pressed the brake pedal.
 

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I’ve just driven in Sport mode regen level 0. At the start of the journey it was definitely using friction braking. After a few miles it switched to regen with the amount of regen increasing the harder I pressed the brake pedal.
Just did the same journey in reverse with the same driving settings. There was no regen being shown in the graphic and it was definitely using friction braking for most of the journey back then it started to use regen for the rest of the journey. I don’t quite understand the parameters under which it engages regen when you press the brake pedal when with regen set to 0. There’s no obvious pattern but then I’ve not properly looking at it until tonight
 

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Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
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Couple of possibilities here - one is the disc-polishing process H have introduced to reduce rear-disc corrosion etc, 2nd is if your car is at 100% SOC to begin with, and you try regenning down a hill, at some point (maybe immediately!) the BMS will refuse to put any more charge into the battery as it would take it into 101% SOC territory = dangerous. So those living at the top of a hill will find the discs being used of instead regen for that reason.
 

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I don’t quite understand the parameters under which it engages regen when you press the brake pedal when with regen set to 0. There’s no obvious pattern but then I’ve not properly looking at it until tonight
According to owner's manual, with regen set to 0 only friction brakes are used, then regen resumes after "10 braking events". No definition of a "braking event" was provided.
 

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This is the first time I've ever heard of road rage due to brake regen!

I've never noticed any drivers being annoyed at me in my car. I always use Auto (set to max), so perhaps the brake lighting is different. I have wondered when the lights come on though, as I'm still a little wary of someone going up my back end when the car is in regen, slowing down. Never thought to do what the OP is though with the foil and paper, that's a great idea.
Currently owning a Sonata Hybrid, I am wondering why you use such aggressive regeneration? My understanding is that it does slow the car faster, but it is less efficient to do that than to let the car slow less and then use the brake pedal if you need to stop sooner. That is because regeneration is not 100%, there is loss. Thus, if you slow down and then have to accelerate again you use more net energy.
 

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Currently owning a Sonata Hybrid, I am wondering why you use such aggressive regeneration? My understanding is that it does slow the car faster, but it is less efficient to do that than to let the car slow less and then use the brake pedal if you need to stop sooner. That is because regeneration is not 100%, there is loss. Thus, if you slow down and then have to accelerate again you use more net energy.
The reason is simply that you make better progress, especially in somewhere like Milton Keynes, and a tiny efficiency saving really doesn't matter to me.
 
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