Looks like I will move to auto and use auto hold then tap brake once stopped to activate it. Ironic I saw this thread as it is something I have been wondering about and recently noticed a couple more aggressive guys pass me and look over puzzeled. You would think most would come to conclusion seeing EV tag on rear of vehicle it is the algorithm of the car and out of drivers control to some degreeYep. I-Pedal for sure doesn't have the brake lights come on until you basically have your foot off the gas. While driving at night, I can see the light from my brakes and they don't come on while Im slowing down, only when my foot is pretty much off the gas and i am almost to a complete stop (By then its too late for the person behind me to realize I started slowing down 5 seconds ago). That would EASILY make me mad if I was the person behind me. I tend to now only use Auto for this reason.
NO you Can Not see the EV tag on the back of a car until you are TOO close.You would think most would come to conclusion seeing EV tag on rear of vehicle it is the algorithm of the car and out of drivers control to some degree
ExactlyWhat most did was drive at night on a back road so that I could see how it came on and when.
Me too. Also noticed the lights don't come on if I pause when turning into a side street (because a pedestrian is crossing for example) in ipedal or regen 3, so I will dab the brake here too if there is someone behind. Probably a good idea to apply the brakes lightly now and again anyway or you would end up with very rusty discs/rotors. Also to check they are actually working!Yep. I-Pedal for sure doesn't have the brake lights come on until you basically have your foot off the gas. While driving at night, I can see the light from my brakes and they don't come on while Im slowing down, only when my foot is pretty much off the gas and i am almost to a complete stop (By then its too late for the person behind me to realize I started slowing down 5 seconds ago). That would EASILY make me mad if I was the person behind me. I tend to now only use Auto for this reason.
I saw that, but I think there is a delay between the red light turning on and the display on CarScanner.... So it is not really usefullFor anyone who has, or plans to get, an ODB2 dongle, I was using mine for the first time today, with CarScanner, and was surprised to find that one of the screens has an indicator for Brake light on or off.
Full credit to those who have wired in an indicator, but if you have the dongle, this seems a simpler way to see what is happening, if you can place or mount your phone in a visible position.
I posted an image in this thread on EV Apps:
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EV App
In watching some Youtube reviews of the Ioniq 5 I noticed them using an app that displayed detailed info about the charge, charge rates, temperatures, etc. Anyone know what this app is? Or another like it??www.ioniqforum.com
I just tested it yesterday sitting in the driveway, with the car in Ready mode but parked.I saw that, but I think there is a delay between the red light turning on and the display on CarScanner.... So it is not really usefull
Enjoy your new car, and let us know when you change your mind about only using level 0... My guess is by day 2.I’m picking up my RWD SEL on Saturday and I’m planning on leaving it on Regen lvl 0 and just using the brake pedal to avoid this. Apparently it’s more efficient to coast anyway.
Looking at the front of the fuse board in mine I cant find that plug, is it behind the fuse board?My Hi5 is RHD. The green wire in pin 13 of connector E of the ICU (aka fuse block) is visible and accessible without removing any trim. It drives some of the brake lights (right side). Other options would be connector D pins 16 (left side brake lights) and 31 (high mount and trailer). Connector D is right next to connector E and both wires are also green, though I did not confirm these alternatives. As this was intended to be a quick hack, and the green wire is only exposed for a very short distance, I decided not to do proper tap and just stuff something in the pin socket. It took me a little while and few tries. A 1/4w resistor lead was too weak. A standard PCB header pin (0.6mm square) was too big. But the lead from a 4007 diode (0.47mm round) was just right. It must have belonged to the middle bear... Anyway, if I were to do it again, I would solder and heat shrink a wire onto the lead first, before getting it to stay in the socket. But after a half hour trying, I was so happy to win the damn thing I just left it there. So I used a clip lead and strain relieved the clip to the harness in the picture. A proper kluge... Anyway, it seems to be holding up after a few days in there. The LED is red, with a 2v drop, and drawing about 3-4 mA through a 3.3k resistor. You can find ground in many places. I recycled a cigarette lighter adapter from something else and used it for ground.
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That’s missing out on one of the joys of driving an EV. Experiment with all the options. My bet is you’ll use regen more than you thinkI’m picking up my RWD SEL on Saturday and I’m planning on leaving it on Regen lvl 0 and just using the brake pedal to avoid this. Apparently it’s more efficient to coast anyway.
It's on front side (same side as the fuses). But at the bottom, It is not visible in from this angle. You have to look up from the floor.Looking at the front of the fuse board in mine I cant find that plug, is it behind the fuse board?
thankyouIt's on front side (same side as the fuses). But at the bottom, It is not visible in from this angle. You have to look up from the floor.
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The brakes are blended regen/friction from my understanding so shouldn’t be missing out on regen. Maybe missing out on 1 pedal driving, but I think I can live with it to avoid rage incidents. Coasting allows hypermiling too.That’s missing out on one of the joys of driving an EV. Experiment with all the options. My bet is you’ll use regen more than you think