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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my 2019 Ioniq PHEV in November 2018. I adore the car -- except for one thing. Only a few months in, the Check Engine light came on. My OBD-II interface reported several camshaft sensor-related errors. I took it to the dealer, sat around for hours, and they eventually drove it around -- only to report that they couldn't reproduce the problem. They cleared the fault and I went home.

A month or two later, the exact same thing happened again -- camshaft sensor fault, sit at the dealer for hours, they can't reproduce the problem, and I go home. And then, a few months later, it happened a third time.

And then again yesterday: same error (shown below). This makes four times in just 1.5 years.

I frankly don't want to go back to the dealer yet again, particularly in the middle of the pandemic, but I also don't want to get stranded with my toddler in the car. :-/ What are my options here? Should I try a different mechanic? Just clear the fault myself and keep driving? Seek out my options under lemon laws? (Is this a known problem with my model, or did I just get "lucky"?)

Any suggestions?


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The best option is make an appointment with the dealer and have them fix the problem. It should be under warranty.
Be patient, you might need more than one trip back and forth. My Intake Air Temp sensor die last year, P0111. The dealer reset it and do nothing for the first visit. They acknowledge the problem on the second visit and order parts and schedule a third visit to replace the sensor. frustrating, but it is the best option.
 

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As per above tell the dealer the same fault has occurred again and you require the faulty sensor associated with that fault to be changed to avoid further worry. Inlet camshaft sensor will cost Hyundai around $63. The error suggests a faulty circuit.

My 2017 PHEV had both mine changed with codes P0340 and P0341 in Nov'19... I seldom used the ICE but managed to replicate the error on each trip out by switching to HEV manually.
3 months earlier, I also had P0011 along with misfire codes P0301, 2,3,4 and multiple misfires. They swapped the injectors and plugs to clear a rough engine and an oil change to reduce the fuel dilution in the sump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. They're consistent with the conclusion I reached after mulling it over today: I'm going to tell them that when I drop the car off, it's not coming home with me again until it's fixed.

I'm grateful for the perspective, the advice, and the tales of shared woe. :- ) Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In case someone else stumbles on this post in the future ... I went in, and they told me (an hour and a half later) that it was a connector problem -- the connector to the sensor had become loose. I've read online that this can happen and can be the cause of this fault, so I wasn't surprised. They wiggled it back into place, and I started driving home.

Then the Check Engine light came on. Again. Same issue.

Luckily, I was only a few minutes away, so I turned around and went back. This time they decided (another two hours later) that the sensor was actually faulty, so they needed to replace it. I'm in a rental (that they're paying for, mind you!) for a few days and am supposed to pick my car up tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

I have my doubts about their story, to be honest: it seems unlikely that both the connector was loose and the sensor was bad. But whatever; if the end result is that I have a fixed car that doesn't do this any more, I'm satisfied.
 

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Hi there. Fingers crossed that their second fix cured your problem!

I am curious because I got a yellow 'MIL'/check engine light in my 2019 PHEV the other day, in EV mode, about 20 yards down the road from starting after parking for 36hr. The previous trip I had driven about 50miles on a mix of EV and HEV, up some steep hills (car dropped to 2nd and 3rd gear at times). Anyway, the yellow light freaked me slightly (new car, never had this light in any of my vehicles in 30+ years driving), so I just drove round the block, parked and contacted the dealer to arrange to have it looked at. Of course, the next time I drove (on EV mode), the yellow 'MIL' light had disappeared. So I contacted the dealer again, and he said to still bring it in. But from what you are saying, if the light is not lit when it's at the dealer they might well say they can't diagnose it?

I will be pointing them at this thread!
 

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I had the MIL light on in my 2018. Dealer first replaced EGR valve, didn;t fix it, then replaced intake cam position sensor, seems to have fixed it but only one 60 mile drive to test this out.
 

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Both camshaft sensors were swapped at Nov 2019 and again in Feb 2021 on my17 PHEV.

P0430 and P0341 first time but just P0340 2nd time, but the dealer swapped the pair. Seems the sensors are a weak but do not have to have any mechanical strength. Eg nothing touches them physically. They do get shaken about.

I had adopted the use of super leaded as a cheap fix but made a mistake filling with super market unleaded and wasn't even doing anything other than the car switching from EV to HEV without any acceleration.

If the mechanic leaves the new sensor disconnected, you will get the same error and orange MIL light... Lol.... Check B4 you leave.

I have now driven 1000 miles in HEV since the last issue without errors.

The sensors are made in Vietnam by Tafico. Others are available once the warrenty runs out but I will fight for them to pay for new ones after July 2022.
 

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I have a 2021 PHEV Ioniq SEL in the US and I think I get similar problems. I do have the orange MIL light show up intermittently and disappear. I will drive once or twice and it will disappear. Also it seems to happen sometimes after it's done charging.

If it happens again, I will sure to diagnose it with an OBD reader.

Is there a recommended OBD reader for Hyundai's for people that have iPhones? i guess I could buy an cheap android phone but just wanted to reach out to the community for any suggestions.
 

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I would be talking direct to your dealer... The orange mil can be anyone of many errors and can also be nothing to do with the camshaft sensors. When you accelerate hard with the MIL light on do you get rough running?

The dealer ought to be able to see historical errors.

No idea about Apple things apart from it being the Beatles record label. ;)
You can buy cheap odb2 tools/connectors with screens that allow you to do the same thing.
 

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Hi Thanks!
We took it to the dealer but unluckily it turned off before we could get it checked out. They said they are only able to check out if the light is on, which is unfortunate if it stays on consistently we will definitely take it in.
 

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Hi just wanted to provide a quick update. 12,000 miles later no engine light so it must have been a glitch. Car still runs fine!
 
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