Non-Bose Stereo Install - Videos, Parts, & how to's

4522 Views 111 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Theblackstig, 1 d ago

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago (Edited)

If you want an immediate upgrade in sound then you should do tweeters first.

Have a Factory Bose system? skip to the bottom of this post.

Tweeter install:

Front Door Panel Removal and speaker install:

Front Door Speaker Gasket

Rear Door Panel Removal and speaker install:

Amp install:

Hope this helps you guys & gals.

Here are the products used.
RF T400X4ad Amp: https://amzn.to/45lYfTF
Pac LPHHY06 Harness: PAC LPHHY06 Audio Integration T-Harness for 2017-2020 Hyundai, Kia
Power Wire: KnuKonceptz - Home and Mobile audio accessories, including amp installation kits and speaker wire
Audiopipe 9 Speaker Wire: https://amzn.to/42XwIGs
63-37 Solder: https://amzn.to/3OvHO19
3:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing: Amazon.com
Expandable Braided Sleeving: https://amzn.to/3MhfTz6
Wire Ferrule Kit: Amazon.com
Micro Samsung USB Drive:Amazon.com
Tweeter: Amazon.com
Front Door Speakers: https://amzn.to/43WwmRj
Rear Door Speakers (plug & play): https://amzn.to/42NAm5e
Rear Door Speakers( must mod speaker adapter): https://amzn.to/43WwmRj
Front Door Speaker Adapter: https://amzn.to/3oA0FNA
Rear Door Speaker Adapter: Amazon.com
Front and Rear Door Speaker Wire Adapter: Amazon.com
(Please confirm polarity )
Wireloom Fiber Tape: https://amzn.to/42a497I
Sound Deadener: (10ft is plenty for the front and rear doors): Amazon.com
Speaker Gasket: Amazon.com
Replacement Clips: https://amzn.to/3q9HXgK

Factory Speaker wires(Non Bose):

Driver (Left) Front door speaker:
Solid Purple= -
Purple/Brown= +

Driver (Left) Front Tweeter :
Car Side:
White= -
Brown= +
On Tweeter
Black= -
Yellow= +

Pass (Right) Front door speaker:
Purple/Blue= -
Purple/Red= +

Pass (Right) Front Tweeter :
Car Side:
Blue= -
Red= +
On Tweeter
Black= -
Red= -

Driver (Left) rear door speaker:
Purple/Orange+
Purple/Black-

Pass (Right) rear door speaker:
Purple/yellow-
Purple/Green+

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Schematic

For people with a factory Bose system, this is your best option.

Original link: Plug & Play pakke til Hyundai Ioniq 6

Translated link: Plug & Play pakke til Hyundai Ioniq 6

Want to give back? buy me a coffee www.buymeacoffee.com/bwmw or send a venmo to @Theblackstig

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81 - 100 of 112 Posts

Brad Barger

· #81 · 17 d ago

Theblackstig said:
First post updated

Thank you for all of the hard work and information!
Is there any point to upgrading just speakers and tweeters? I like the idea of adding an amp but not sure if I want to go that far.
Can the rear speakers be replaced to produce more bass, even sub base if that is the correct term.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #82 · 17 d ago

Brad Barger said:
Thank you for all of the hard work and information!
Is there any point to upgrading just speakers and tweeters? I like the idea of adding an amp but not sure if I want to go that far.
Can the rear speakers be replaced to produce more bass, even sub base if that is the correct term.

Is there any point to upgrading just speakers and tweeters?
if I was going to pick one thing to do, it would be the tweeters in the A pillar, and make sure everything is in phase

I like the idea of adding an amp but not sure if I want to go that far.
It is so worth it though, I like my music loud and in my chest, I pretty much would have to keep it in the 55-61 range, and this is where the radio was near clipping or clipping. Now I am in the 45-50 range. The other issue I noticed that as the radio I assumes heats up the volume would decrease, I thought was the volume at x speed feature but after I turned it off it was still there especially after 30 mins

Can the rear speakers be replaced to produce more bass, even sub base if that is the correct term.

Waste of time on the factory radio, the rear speakers get noticeably less power than the fronts.

I've not need to do a sound system in awhile but the i6 sound system was truly lacking, My bolt, My ATS, My Saturn Aura, My GMC terrain, and a few other turo cars all had better systems. and the sad part this is probably the quietest car next to the ATS.

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Ecordova2023

· #83 · 17 d ago

Theblackstig said:
15Hours later... And the amp is in!! It feels amazing to have some actual volume!

Quick notes:
To my amazement the PAC Harnesses actually flipping worked, and I'm so glad it did I would have hated to make a custom inject/intercept harnesses. This is also a great option for those who just want to add a sub.

A lot of systems sounds go through the center speaker.

Routing the wires was quite easy and you could easily run zero gauge.

Scanning the video, I missed the talk about the PAC harness. What was the issue?

Brad Barger

· #84 · 17 d ago

Theblackstig said:
Is there any point to upgrading just speakers and tweeters?
if I was going to pick one thing to do, it would be the tweeters in the A pillar, and make sure everything is in phase

I like the idea of adding an amp but not sure if I want to go that far.
It is so worth it though, I like my music loud and in my chest, I pretty much would have to keep it in the 55-61 range, and this is where the radio was near clipping or clipping. Now I am in the 45-50 range. The other issue I noticed that as the radio I assumes heats up the volume would decrease, I thought was the volume at x speed feature but after I turned it off it was still there especially after 30 mins

Can the rear speakers be replaced to produce more bass, even sub base if that is the correct term.

Waste of time on the factory radio, the rear speakers get noticeably less power than the fronts.

I've not need to do a sound system in awhile but the i6 sound system was truly lacking, My bolt, My ATS, My Saturn Aura, My GMC terrain, and a few other turo cars all had better systems. and the sad part this is probably the quietest car next to the ATS.

This car definitely has the lowest quality sound system of every car I have owned.
I could do the upgrade but it would be piece by piece over time. Can I do the harness and amp first then replace speakers later or do speakers first? I assume once you install the harness you are committed to getting the amp in a well to have sound again.
I haven’t installed any sound systems since auto-reverse and 6x9’s.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #85 · 17 d ago

Brad Barger said:
This car definitely has the lowest quality sound system of every car I have owned.
I could do the upgrade but it would be piece by piece over time. Can I do the harness and amp first then replace speakers later or do speakers first? I assume once you install the harness you are committed to getting the amp in a well to have sound again.
I haven’t installed any sound systems since auto-reverse and 6x9’s.

You could do either first, how ever the speakers are a cheaper and easier to do over time.

In terms of cost figure $650-700 for all the speakers with dyno/fat mat. and you can do it in stages just like me or $750-800 for amp and related install accessories, and you have to do it all at once.

on a side note I have the template and a ton of abs sheet left, give me $20, I'll cut and ship it to you an amp rack.

Brad Barger

· #86 · 16 d ago

Theblackstig said:
Is there any point to upgrading just speakers and tweeters?
if I was going to pick one thing to do, it would be the tweeters in the A pillar, and make sure everything is in phase

I like the idea of adding an amp but not sure if I want to go that far.
It is so worth it though, I like my music loud and in my chest, I pretty much would have to keep it in the 55-61 range, and this is where the radio was near clipping or clipping. Now I am in the 45-50 range. The other issue I noticed that as the radio I assumes heats up the volume would decrease, I thought was the volume at x speed feature but after I turned it off it was still there especially after 30 mins

Can the rear speakers be replaced to produce more bass, even sub base if that is the correct term.

Waste of time on the factory radio, the rear speakers get noticeably less power than the fronts.

I've not need to do a sound system in awhile but the i6 sound system was truly lacking, My bolt, My ATS, My Saturn Aura, My GMC terrain, and a few other turo cars all had better systems. and the sad part this is probably the quietest car next to the ATS.

Are those your videos for the how-to?
Where does the sub tie in? Will your amp power it out do you need an amp for the sub? What if you were to use a powered sub, how would it tie in?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #87 · 16 d ago

Brad Barger said:
Are those your videos for the how-to?
Yup

Where does the sub tie in?
it will tee off the front channel. I already have leads running from the amp I added for this use.

Will your amp power it out do you need an amp for the sub?
No, but there is 5ch version of the amp I used that could do that.

What if you were to use a powered sub, how would it tie in?
That is my plan, I would use this cerwin vega spare tire sub if its fits , I have 12v power distribution blocks already by my amp as well

ANWSERS IN THE ABOVE QUOTE

Ecordova2023

· #88 · 16 d ago

Ecordova2023 said:
Scanning the video, I missed the talk about the PAC harness. What was the issue?

@Theblackstig what needed to be flipped on the harness?

Brad Barger

· #89 · 16 d ago

Wow

Theblackstig said:
ANWSERS IN THE ABOVE QUOTE

Wow! Very nice and thorough videos! Where do the tweeters get connected?

Theblackstig said:
ANWSERS IN THE ABOVE QUOTE
[/QUOTE

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #90 · 15 d ago

Brad Barger said:
Wow! Very nice and thorough videos! Where do the tweeters get connected?

I'm not sure how to answer that, you can use the existing speaker wiring behind the a pillar. The wiring merges somewhere behind the dash with the door speaker.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #91 · 15 d ago

Ecordova2023 said:
@Theblackstig what needed to be flipped on the harness?

Did you watch the video?

CentralFL

· #92 · 15 d ago

Theblackstig said:
It most definitely is, but the media unit is different from what I read and so are the speakers. On top of that all I've gotten is that the Bose system for the I5 are just okay and that seems to extend to the reviews on the i6 bose system.

Since I have/had both I5/I6, I would have to say that the Bose systems that are being used in the I5 and I6 are only so so. The Meridian(EV6) or Harman Karden(other top trim Hyundai) are way better.

Brad Barger

· #93 · 15 d ago

Theblackstig said:
I'm not sure how to answer that, you can use the existing speaker wiring behind the a pillar. The wiring merges somewhere behind the dash with the door speaker.

So the tweeters get connected to the amp by default from the front speakers? Is there a remote trigger from the harness or do you tie into subverting on the car powered only with ignition on?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #94 · 15 d ago

Brad Barger said:
So the tweeters get connected to the amp by default from the front speakers? Is there a remote trigger from the harness or do you tie into subverting on the car powered only with ignition on?

Now I understand your question.

I used all the factory wiring for the speakers, The pac harness is used to intercept the signal coming from the factory head unit, that signal is then routed to my amp. Then the output from the amp goes back up to the pac harness where it goes throughout factory wiring to the speakers.

You can upgrade the tweeters without having to have the amp upgraded, infact this is how it was for a few weeks before I bought the amp.

In terms of a remote turn on, the Pac harness does have a "remote turn on" output but I did not need to use it. When high level inputs are used with the rockford fosgate amp it can sense that and it will turn on and off the amp, in fact it actually turns the remote turn on input into a output so you can turn on other stuff.

Babrahamm

· #95 · 14 d ago

Question about the polarity. They are correct from the head unit but were terminating incorrecctly?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #96 · 14 d ago

Babrahamm said:
Question about the polarity. They are correct from the head unit but were terminating incorrecctly?

I borrowed a friends RTA and actually it looks like I was wrong and the i6 infotainment unit just does some funky things internally so my tried and true method didn't work. you still need to be mindful of speaker polarity with the speaker adapters.

Babrahamm

· #97 · 12 d ago

I was reading some posts on the Ioniq 5 forums on front speaker/tweeter replacement. The wiring looks the same where the full spectrum of the signal is just split from the woofer to the tweeter. Installing a crossover is much easier on the 5 as all of the wires are in the door. For the 6 the tweeter is in the A pillar. How hard do you think it would be to install front spearks and tweeters with a crossover? I was thinking about getting this set. Infinity Reference REF-6530cx

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #98 · 11 d ago

Babrahamm said:
I was reading some posts on the Ioniq 5 forums on front speaker/tweeter replacement. The wiring looks the same where the full spectrum of the signal is just split from the woofer to the tweeter. Installing a crossover is much easier on the 5 as all of the wires are in the door. For the 6 the tweeter is in the A pillar. How hard do you think it would be to install front spearks and tweeters with a crossover? I was thinking about getting this set. Infinity Reference REF-6530cx

This was discussed on post's #22 - #25 you need a setup with inline crossovers for each woofer/tweeter. The hertz tweeters actually come with inline crossover, it's simple but works(they also have more advanced ones too) The only advantage with large format crossovers is that you can usually select loudness (-1 db, - 2db, + 2db etc ) and some times frequencies. Imho a crossover on a woofer is pointless, you can control this with any decent amp, mine is setup at 65/70hz and up, once I get a sub it will be more like 80hz and up.

Brad Barger

· #99 · 10 d ago (Edited)

Could you seal a sub woofer or two into the well in the trunk? The trunk floor would make the back of the enclosure basically.

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Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #100 · 10 d ago

Brad Barger said:
Could you seal a sub woofer or two into the well in the trunk? The trunk floor would make the back of the enclosure basically. View attachment 50257

Sorta my plan, I'll have an update for you guys in a week or so. Hidden space is lack luster so my options are limited.

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