Non-Bose Stereo Install - Videos, Parts, & how to's

4523 Views 111 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Theblackstig, 1 d ago

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago (Edited)

If you want an immediate upgrade in sound then you should do tweeters first.

Have a Factory Bose system? skip to the bottom of this post.

Tweeter install:

Front Door Panel Removal and speaker install:

Front Door Speaker Gasket

Rear Door Panel Removal and speaker install:

Amp install:

Hope this helps you guys & gals.

Here are the products used.
RF T400X4ad Amp: https://amzn.to/45lYfTF
Pac LPHHY06 Harness: PAC LPHHY06 Audio Integration T-Harness for 2017-2020 Hyundai, Kia
Power Wire: KnuKonceptz - Home and Mobile audio accessories, including amp installation kits and speaker wire
Audiopipe 9 Speaker Wire: https://amzn.to/42XwIGs
63-37 Solder: https://amzn.to/3OvHO19
3:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing: Amazon.com
Expandable Braided Sleeving: https://amzn.to/3MhfTz6
Wire Ferrule Kit: Amazon.com
Micro Samsung USB Drive:Amazon.com
Tweeter: Amazon.com
Front Door Speakers: https://amzn.to/43WwmRj
Rear Door Speakers (plug & play): https://amzn.to/42NAm5e
Rear Door Speakers( must mod speaker adapter): https://amzn.to/43WwmRj
Front Door Speaker Adapter: https://amzn.to/3oA0FNA
Rear Door Speaker Adapter: Amazon.com
Front and Rear Door Speaker Wire Adapter: Amazon.com
(Please confirm polarity )
Wireloom Fiber Tape: https://amzn.to/42a497I
Sound Deadener: (10ft is plenty for the front and rear doors): Amazon.com
Speaker Gasket: Amazon.com
Replacement Clips: https://amzn.to/3q9HXgK

Factory Speaker wires(Non Bose):

Driver (Left) Front door speaker:
Solid Purple= -
Purple/Brown= +

Driver (Left) Front Tweeter :
Car Side:
White= -
Brown= +
On Tweeter
Black= -
Yellow= +

Pass (Right) Front door speaker:
Purple/Blue= -
Purple/Red= +

Pass (Right) Front Tweeter :
Car Side:
Blue= -
Red= +
On Tweeter
Black= -
Red= -

Driver (Left) rear door speaker:
Purple/Orange+
Purple/Black-

Pass (Right) rear door speaker:
Purple/yellow-
Purple/Green+

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Schematic

For people with a factory Bose system, this is your best option.

Original link: Plug & Play pakke til Hyundai Ioniq 6

Translated link: Plug & Play pakke til Hyundai Ioniq 6

Want to give back? buy me a coffee www.buymeacoffee.com/bwmw or send a venmo to @Theblackstig

See less See more

61 - 80 of 112 Posts

cheese711

· #61 · 1 mo ago

@Theblackstig just got the Scosche adapters and the C165/CX165 do not fit. The actual opening of the adapter is 5 5/16" (135mm). The C165/CX165 are 5.59" (142 mm). Any recommendations for a 6.5" coaxial speaker? Or do you think going down to the 5.25" Hertz CX130 is the better play?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #62 · 1 mo ago

cheese711 said:
@Theblackstig just got the Scosche adapters and the C165/CX165 do not fit. The actual opening of the adapter is 5 5/16" (135mm). The C165/CX165 are 5.59" (142 mm). Any recommendations for a 6.5" coaxial speaker? Or do you think going down to the 5.25" Hertz CX130 is the better play?

I'll have to let you know when I get mine and get back to you. Id rather have the 6.5" as they can be found cheaper and you know, more sound.

cheese711

· #63 · 1 mo ago

Theblackstig said:
I'll have to let you know when I get mine and get back to you. Id rather have the 6.5" as they can be found cheaper and you know, more sound.

Sounds good. I may try to frankenstein something together with the Scosche and the extra Metra adapters I have. Depending on depth, I'm thinking of flipping the Metra backwards and mounting to the Scosche. I won't be able to conform this until this weekend when I plan to do speaker work.

asterix2112

· #64 · 1 mo ago

People are right about polarity. Make sure you get it right. (I used to work as a recording engineer) Hook one up backwards and you will defeat the whole purpose of speaker upgrades! And the really annoying thing is that it will not be totally obvious, you will just think that it's not sounding as good as you thought and not sure why... Basically you will have different speakers fighting with each other, one will be going in as the other is going out, when both are supposed to be going in and it just messes with the sound.

(unless, of course you hook up every speaker backwards, then I guess it would be ok!)

Ecordova2023

· #65 · 1 mo ago

@Theblackstig did you order that pac harness yet?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #66 · 1 mo ago

Ecordova2023 said:
@Theblackstig did you order that pac harness yet?

no, I've been emailing them for more info first.

Reactions: 1

Ecordova2023

· #67 · 30 d ago

Theblackstig said:
no, I've been emailing them for more info first.

Sounds good, I am trying to find it wholesale through one of my connections but no luck yet.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #68 · 29 d ago

cheese711 said:
@Theblackstig just got the Scosche adapters and the C165/CX165 do not fit. The actual opening of the adapter is 5 5/16" (135mm). The C165/CX165 are 5.59" (142 mm). Any recommendations for a 6.5" coaxial speaker? Or do you think going down to the 5.25" Hertz CX130 is the better play?

Got the rear door speakers, I'll have the Video up tomorrow. Now that all the speakers are in phase she is crispy 😍

Reactions: 1

Ecordova2023

· #69 · 29 d ago

Theblackstig said:
Got the rear door speakers, I'll have the Video up tomorrow. Now that all the speakers are in phase she is crispy 😍

Nice how exciting! Just waiting to hear how you pair it with the amp.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #70 · 27 d ago

Rear door video added and the first post has been updated.

cheese711

· #71 · 27 d ago

Theblackstig said:
Rear door video added and the first post has been updated.

Thanks for the video. Looks like it’s not to much of a modification.

For the door panel removal, there’s a gap at the bottom of the door that I believe is intended for starting the panel removal. It’s a little easier than starting from the sides.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #72 · 27 d ago

cheese711 said:
Thanks for the video. Looks like it’s not to much of a modification.

For the door panel removal, there’s a gap at the bottom of the door that I believe is intended for starting the panel removal. It’s a little easier than starting from the sides.

I noticed that, I'm pretty sure it's a drain actually. The side is easier for me as I can pull at the same time, but whatever is easier for you. And of course as soon as I put everything away I found my air bladder 😅.

cheese711

· #73 · 24 d ago

Theblackstig said:
I noticed that, I'm pretty sure it's a drain actually. The side is easier for me as I can pull at the same time, but whatever is easier for you. And of course as soon as I put everything away I found my air bladder 😅.

For the rear door adapter, did you drill new holes for the screws or are they essentially self tapping?

Did you run into any issues with fitting the screw in the speaker opening with that extra piece of plastic holding the cabling?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #74 · 24 d ago

cheese711 said:
For the rear door adapter, did you drill new holes for the screws or are they essentially self tapping?

Did you run into any issues with fitting the screw in the speaker opening with that extra piece of plastic holding the cabling?

No I didn't predrill, I did use a center punch so the screws would not wonder but yes they are self tapping. I used the screws that came with the hertz speakers as they were nearly perfect in size.

Yes, but I was able to clock the speaker and it was less of an issues. The passenger rear door was harder and I did clip a little corner off of that tab just for more wiggle room.

Also amp install is happening this weekend

cheese711

· #75 · 24 d ago

Theblackstig said:
No I didn't predrill, I did use a center punch so the screws would not wonder but yes they are self tapping. I used the screws that came with the hertz speakers as they were nearly perfect in size.

Yes, but I was able to clock the speaker and it was less of an issues. The passenger rear door was harder and I did clip a little corner off of that tab just for more wiggle room.

Also amp install is happening this weekend

Excited to see how you manage the amp install! What amp are you looking to use? The front speakers being 2 Ohm in parallel seems to limit the options.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #76 · 24 d ago

cheese711 said:
Excited to see how you manage the amp install! What amp are you looking to use? The front speakers being 2 Ohm in parallel seems to limit the options.

Rockford Fosgate T400X4ad Pretty much any decent name brand amp is 2ohm stable per ch. I love these mini amps as the are literally 8"x4" and they sound great, they are not as Class A, but our cars don't have the power to run class a anyways.

cheese711

· #77 · 24 d ago

Theblackstig said:
Rockford Fosgate T400X4ad Pretty much any decent name brand amp is 2ohm stable per ch. I love these mini amps as the are literally 8"x4" and they sound great, they are not as Class A, but our cars don't have the power to run class a anyways.

Looks nice. Do you have any recommendations for amps around $200-300? Or do you think that price range isn't worth it and it's better to save up for $500+?

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #78 · 24 d ago

cheese711 said:
Looks nice. Do you have any recommendations for amps around $200-300? Or do you think that price range isn't worth it and it's better to save up for $500+?

The same amp https://amzn.to/3o25gZe, I spoke with the "Sound of Tri-State Inc" and they told me they sell them as refurbished to get around map and that it would be new. I bought that version from them on amazon and it looks 100% new to me, it was vacuumed sealed and said nothing about being refurb.

The problem with cheaper amps is they work, but consume more power, and because I will be adding a sub I want to keep power draw to a minimum. I don't want to have to worry about iccu issues.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #79 · 21 d ago

15Hours later... And the amp is in!! It feels amazing to have some actual volume!

Quick notes:
To my amazement the PAC Harnesses actually flipping worked, and I'm so glad it did I would have hated to make a custom inject/intercept harnesses. This is also a great option for those who just want to add a sub.

A lot of systems sounds go through the center speaker.

Routing the wires was quite easy and you could easily run zero gauge.

Theblackstig

Discussion Starter · #80 · 20 d ago

First post updated

61 - 80 of 112 Posts