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'23 lucid blue limited on "order"
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Side note, the I5 won't be eligible for the new EV tax credit if it passes in its current form. (If purchased in 2023) On a postive note, maybe then people will be able to get them at MSRP easy.
and Ford may get the credit back, better yet, as a point of sale (POS) credit. I am really impressed by all I read about Ioniq 5, but if not delivered by December, that would be a show stopper for me, and I guess a lot of other folks too. Of course we do not know for sure what the final bill will look like, or even if it ever gets enacted.
 

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Add me to the list. Charge point with 50amp breakers. I had the problem of stopping repeatedly. Garage was 110 degrees though. The charging handle was very hot to the touch. I installed an intake and exhaust fan setup meant for crawl spaces in my garage trying to at least keep the garage at outside air temp instead of hotter. I charged 2x% to 100% outside on Saturday where it was over 100 out but there was also outside so there was some air movement
 

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Question: after driving the car long distance, is it OK to start charging right when you get home, or is it best to
let the car/battery cool down first? Maybe that could be my problem.
I also noticed in the screen settings, there is a charging speed option. I read if you have problems charging to lower the speed.
Does anyone have theirs set to medium or slow?
Yes…I had exactly that problem so set to medium….never interrupts now and only takes about an hour longer. Batteries like women like it nice and slow anyway. Cheers. Oh by the way see my comments on the subject in a previous thread.
 

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Yes…I had exactly that problem so set to medium….never interrupts now and only takes about an hour longer. Batteries like women like it nice and slow anyway. Cheers. Oh by the way see my comments on the subject in a previous thread.
It’s been 95+ here for at least a month….heat not the issue……night down frequently to the 80s when I charge
 

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While I agree that most of us do not need to use 11kW, it is supposed to be a working feature. It is not a show stopper yet for me, but definitely causes me pause. I guess it might get fixed soon, or not.
My Ioniq 5 is only two weeks old, so this might not be that useful a data point, but I have a ChargePoint Home Flex hardwired with a 60A breaker and the few times I've charged (at 11.6kW) in temps in the 80s and 90s (New England) there hasn't been a problem charging to 90%. 🤞 (This is inside my non air conditioned garage.)

[Update: See my updated post at post #130 in this thread.]
 

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Add me to the list of people who think this is caused by poor on-board charger thermal management. I interchangeably use a Tesla UMC (32A max) with a 60A TeslaTap Mini and a JuiceBox 40 (40A max).

Over the summer, I've have consistently observed the following:
  • Car stops charging when OBC A or OBC B temperature reading crosses 141F.
  • When OBC B reaches ~136F, the evaporator fan runs at close to maximum RPM, and the coolant temperature consequently drops rapidly. However, this does not seem to effectively cool the on-board charger as both OBC A and B temperature readings continue to slowly increase until charging stops.
  • For my conditions (garage that warms up to ca. 110F on most days above 80F), the current of 32A does not result in charging interruption, while the current of 40A does most of the time.
  • Inverter temperature reading does not seem to correlate with charging stoppages in a meaningful way. The car is also much better at cooling the inverter.

The fact that the car treats charging stoppage due to thermals as "charging completed", not "charging interrupted" exacerbates the poor thermal management as it does not allow for charging to resume automatically when thermals improve.

I don't know enough about the cooling architecture of E-GMP to say whether it's possible to improve the thermal management for the OBC without hardware changes. Assuming it is not, there are still a few options that would improve the current experience:
  • Proactively managing charging current to reduce the thermal load on the OBC
  • When stoppages occur, resume charging after thermals improve
  • Admitting the design issue, improve the reliability of alerting owners about temperature-triggered stoppages, and providing suggestions for restoring partial charging performance such as opening garage doors, using fans, and making lowering the charging current an easier process accessible via the app.
 

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ikash, you mention that the inverter temperature and the stoppages are only loosely correlated. This may be because the stoppages are being triggered by the temperature sensor in the J1772 connector. In another thread someone reported seeing the error: DTC P1BAD:00- "battery charger coupler temperature too high". This might be a red herring, but should be easy for Hyundai to analyze and understand.
 

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'23 lucid blue limited on "order"
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The VCMS (Vehicle Charge Management System) sets DTC P1BAD00, during slow charging, when the charging port overheating signal is received by the temperature sensor inside the charging port inlet.

Even with my subscription, for some reason the troubleshooting flow chart will not show, nor do I seem to have access to Hyundai TechNet, apparently a month service publication. If anyone can get a copy, possibly from a dealer service group, there is a reference to this I5 DTC in Hyundai TechNet - Vol. 32, Issue 05
 

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The VCMS (Vehicle Charge Management System) sets DTC P1BAD00, during slow charging, when the charging port overheating signal is received by the temperature sensor inside the charging port inlet.

Even with my subscription, for some reason the troubleshooting flow chart will not show, nor do I seem to have access to Hyundai TechNet, apparently a month service publication. If anyone can get a copy, possibly from a dealer service group, there is a reference to this I5 DTC in Hyundai TechNet - Vol. 32, Issue 05
I wonder if OBC-B temperature reading corresponds to the charge port.
 

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Using a thermal camera, I have seen temperatures of 57 C (134 F) on the outside of the J1772 connector when charging at 38 A (the charging had stopped at that temperature). The OBC-A and -B temperatures you cited are similar. It strikes me that a well-functioning connector should not get this hot.

I would also be curious to know if this issue has been widely reported in South Korea and southern Europe (eg. Italy, Spain, Greece) where temperatures are at least as hot as the southern US.
 

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  • Car stops charging when OBC A or OBC B temperature reading crosses 141F.
  • When OBC B reaches ~136F, the evaporator fan runs at close to maximum RPM, and the coolant temperature consequently drops rapidly. However, this does not seem to effectively cool the on-board charger as both OBC A and B temperature readings continue to slowly increase until charging stops
Thanks! We finally get more data points. Could you please check in Car Scanner how much energy is used by A/C when OBC B reaches 136F and evaporator fan runs at max RPM? Extra energy consumption can be calculated by comparing charger current (in charger display or app) vs. Battery current in Car Scanner.

Again thank you both for these valuable inputs.
 

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Thanks! We finally get more data points. Could you please check in Car Scanner how much energy is used by A/C when OBC B reaches 136F and evaporator fan runs at max RPM? Extra energy consumption can be calculated by comparing charger current (in charger display or app) vs. Battery current in Car Scanner.

Again thank you both for these valuable inputs.
From what I recall, the difference between charging current and battery power was ~1.5kW. I’ll try to remember to check next time I run into this condition.
 

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I wonder if OBC-B temperature reading corresponds to the charge port.
I keep looking through the WS (workshop) manual, schematics, and DTC's. Almost every time, I find more page menus and options, but unfortunately, nothing decisive yet on OBC-B. There is at least one temperature sensor associated with the physical charge port inlet, possibly two. There are likely one or more temperature sensors in the OBC (onboard charger) in the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit). Then, of course there are the two cooling loop temperatures, motor (with includes the ICCU with the OBC) and battery.

Probably, there is more detailed information if one takes the subscription to Hyundai GDS including the J2534 OBD interface (which likely mirrors some of what can be seen with conventional OBD scanner devices). Possibly, on GDS, there are click through items that better tie technical details together. But, if I do the J2534 VCI and GDS ($3.5k), it will only be if and after I get Blucid, my '23 Lucid Blue AWD Limited on "order" :)
 

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Thanks @Blucid for the thorough and detailed riff on this problem, which seem pretty widespread

does the car keep a log? Is it possible for the dealer to see the log so that when I bring the car in I have more than this thread to substantiate what's happening?

We have the Rivian charger, which works perfectly for my truck. It often charges the Ioniq completely, but often doesn't... frequently stopping just a few minutes after charging begins. Then I'll unplug and replug and it often (but not always) makes it to the end.

It's moved from frustrating to debilitating in terms of car usage now. And do you think the ambient temp here in NY reaching 100 degrees has any influence?

Thanks for your help
 

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Thanks @Blucid for the thorough and detailed riff on this problem, which seem pretty widespread

does the car keep a log? Is it possible for the dealer to see the log so that when I bring the car in I have more than this thread to substantiate what's happening?

We have the Rivian charger, which works perfectly for my truck. It often charges the Ioniq completely, but often doesn't... frequently stopping just a few minutes after charging begins. Then I'll unplug and replug and it often (but not always) makes it to the end.

It's moved from frustrating to debilitating in terms of car usage now. And do you think the ambient temp here in NY reaching 100 degrees has any influence?

Thanks for your help
I am just reading what I can find, my I5 is still on order. The experts are people like @ikash and @Mikael48, and many others.

@chuckyab, found that a box fan running in front of their I5 gets him through charging sessions, definitely something to try. You shouldn't have to do that, but if works, maybe that is good enough for now.
 

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Ran into the same issue at 1k miles. Level 2 no longer works, lowering amperage is hit or miss. 20amp might last 10 min or so. Outside Temps in upstate NY should be no issue.

Brought it back to the dealer and had to wait for the traveling high level tech to look at it. (New tech early adopter issues but should you be selling a car your service department has no clue what to do on? )

Got a call week later they think it has to do with a thermostat located near the charging port. Makes sense. The estimated time for the part, no idea. Another week goes by, call to check in and the response is they are starting to make the parts now. Another week, they should ship next week if everything goes OK. So hopefully it comes in next week then I guess however long it takes the traveling ev guy to come in and install it.

This seems to be a common issue, is this going to just keep happening and needing to be replaced? Meanwhile we are making the $800 payment for the car to sit at the dealer and paying $5 a gallon for a loaner that gets 23mpg.

Will post the work order when I get the car back.
 

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Ran into the same issue at 1k miles. Level 2 no longer works, lowering amperage is hit or miss. 20amp might last 10 min or so. Outside Temps in upstate NY should be no issue.

Brought it back to the dealer and had to wait for the traveling high level tech to look at it. (New tech early adopter issues but should you be selling a car your service department has no clue what to do on? )

Got a call week later they think it has to do with a thermostat located near the charging port. Makes sense. The estimated time for the part, no idea. Another week goes by, call to check in and the response is they are starting to make the parts now. Another week, they should ship next week if everything goes OK. So hopefully it comes in next week then I guess however long it takes the traveling ev guy to come in and install it.

This seems to be a common issue, is this going to just keep happening and needing to be replaced? Meanwhile we are making the $800 payment for the car to sit at the dealer and paying $5 a gallon for a loaner that gets 23mpg.

Will post the work order when I get the car back.
this is incredibly helpful

thank you

would love to see whatever the dealer puts into writing. Forum posts like this one help a lot of people, thank you.
 

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Have they given you any information on the part that is being replaced? Do you know if it is the temperature sensor or the entire J1772 receptacle on the side of the car? As you point out, lots of owners are having this problem, and if it can only be fixed with a major component replacement, it could take Hyundai a very long time to put it right. Look forward to seeing if this repair keeps the car from ending charging sessions.
 
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