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2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV
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One other thing to mention is something I've brought up before. In a gas car you just drive. There's little concern over gas mileage as you drive and little or no real-time feedback on how your driving affects mileage. Who cares? There are gas stations everywhere.

That's the mentality we develop and sustain over our entire driving experience. And it can lead to some bad habits that are not evident in a gas car. Some people are extremely smooth and gentle with the throttle. (Surprisingly, race drivers top this list - precise throttle control is absolutely crucial to competitive lap times.) Others do all sorts of things that they can get away with in a gas car, but will limit range in an EV. Just one example is the pulse-and-coast technique, where the driver rarely holds the throttle steady. They are constantly poking and releasing the pedal to maintain their desired average speed. Another is not looking ahead, like continuing at speed when you can see you've got a red light ahead.

This is not to say these people are bad drivers, only that their technique didn't matter before.

Now it does. EVs are FAR more efficient than ICEVs (putting to use approximately 4X more of the energy available to them), so inefficient driving shows up far more. Fortunately, most EVs provide feedback that is extremely helpful. In the Ioniq 5 it's called the Power/Charge Gauge:

Hood Sleeve Gadget Automotive design Vehicle


Watch this gauge as you drive, play with the throttle a bit and you'll see that frequently you're using more throttle - and energy - than you need for prevailing conditions. For most of us, just this awareness of our influence on the machine as it does our bidding will increase our engagement in the process. For those of us willing to do a little adaptation, it's generally not long before range increases, and it feels perfectly natural to drive in that manner.

If you're afraid this will turn you into one of those hyper-miling lunatics that disrupt traffic, rest easy - efficient driving can be perfectly normal. For example, have no fear about mashing the throttle to the floor to squirt into a lane opening if that's what you need to do. Yes, the power meter will shoot to maximum, but only briefly. Short bursts are inconsequential. Energy-wise, actions like that are like a drop in a relatively large bucket.

Also, there's a tendency for EV noobs to go nuts with regen. It's good to use it instead of brakes as much as possible, but with both brakes and regen, using them is a loss of energy. With braking that's obvious, because the energy you used to get up to speed gets burned off as heat. But even with regen you loose energy - yes, you put some of it back in the battery, but every energy conversion has losses. Better to not have to scrub off speed in the first place, which leads to doing a better job of looking and thinking ahead.

For some all this will seem tedious, like going back to school. Not to worry - when you're in the mood, pay attention to this stuff as a diversion or a game. You'll likely find it will become habit over time.
 

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It is probably easy to explain to people in terms of cell phones (which they have plenty of experience).

Phone batteries NEVER lasts as long as manufacturers claim it to be (like my phone Samsung Z Fold 3 = all day life claimed by samsung).. Unless you use it mostly for just calls and texts with minimal screen use. If you play games, it won't last more than few hours.

Same thing here, If you drive like granny at 25-50mph in ideal condition (60-80degrees in temps) with very slow acceleration then yes. It can go 303miles with 100% charge (probably even go further). However, that is not how we typically drive nor how much we typically charge either.
Or just explain to them in terms of combustion cars, which also struggle to get their rating, unless driven optimally in optimal conditions. I suppose the winter temperature range issue will be the real shocker to most who have no experience with EVs.
 

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Or just explain to them in terms of combustion cars, which also struggle to get their rating, unless driven optimally in optimal conditions. I suppose the winter temperature range issue will be the real shocker to most who have no experience with EVs.
The thing is, gas stations are everywhere AND filling up takes like 5 min.
So, yes, they will gripe about not getting rated mileage, but to their mind, it is pocket book issue not the time/distance anxiety issue.
 

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I have an AWD Limited. I am a senior and drive very conservatively. The area where I live is mostly flat. I calculate the range by looking at miles traveled after charging and the percentage of battery used to do those miles. I am consistently calculating 280 to 300 miles. I set the temperature to driver only at 77 degrees F. However, with this heat wave if my wife is with me, she likes 68 degrees and that reduces the calculated range quite a bit.
 

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Hyundai Ioniq 5 SE AWD, Cyber Gray
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IMHO after 6 weeks... Ignore the GOM/range thing for local driving (ie, < 100 miles/day) - if range on the GOM is < 100 at the end of the day charge it back to 80%. If not, go on with life. This is kinda like the old "the car has half a tank, we're fine" feeling of gas powered cars.

Still waiting on the first road trip (>100 miles) - my plan then is to make sure no segment between EA chargers is more than 200 miles, and to charge up to probably 90% at each stop unless I have no choice due to excessive distance, high winds, lots of elevation changes, etc where that last 10% might be needed.
 

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Ioniq 5 Ultimate AWD tech and eco in Lucid Blue
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IMHO after 6 weeks... Ignore the GOM/range thing for local driving (ie, < 100 miles/day) - if range on the GOM is < 100 at the end of the day charge it back to 80%. If not, go on with life. This is kinda like the old "the car has half a tank, we're fine" feeling of gas powered cars.

Still waiting on the first road trip (>100 miles) - my plan then is to make sure no segment between EA chargers is more than 200 miles, and to charge up to probably 90% at each stop unless I have no choice due to excessive distance, high winds, lots of elevation changes, etc where that last 10% might be needed.
Tbh, I keep my UK AWD around 50% unless I know there's a trip planned. It's a little kinder to the battery and still gives me a safe range of over 100 miles at this time of year (100% gives me around 270, so still some margin for error).
 

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I understand your concern as I had the same. When I got mine it was charged to 50%, I brought it home and slow charged with the regular outlet and given cable to 100% and it reported like 345 miles. When I got in to drive it did drop significantly and did change frequently on later charges due to the adaptive nature... however I wanted to check the 303 mile rating myself so I fully charged a few days ago and drove in ECO mode with the assigned level 3 braking. On full charge i had gotten 315 miles; due to my commute elevation I gain and lose depending on direction and also temp (still cold so using a wee bit of heat in the a.m.) but I was able to drive about 275 miles before getting down to 10% with 30 left on the range which satisfied me in being able to adjust my driving style and braking to increase that. Would suggest you do your own test to validate... you probably have already seen how using climate and adjusting the braking affect the range for your driving style. For sure the 303 you will not achieve unless you are in ECO mode though.
Perfectly said !!!
 

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I have been driving my Ioniq5 for about 3 weeks. When I first got it, it was charged up to close to 300 miles. Ever since the first week, the max I will get when the battery is at 100% is roughly 266 and now it seems to have dropped again to around 250 after receiving a full charge, I have used Level 1, 2, and 3 chargers since I got the car. Is anyone else experiencing this? The dealer said it was because it is an adaptive system but I don't know if that applies here???
I have been driving my Ioniq5 for about 3 weeks. When I first got it, it was charged up to close to 300 miles. Ever since the first week, the max I will get when the battery is at 100% is roughly 266 and now it seems to have dropped again to around 250 after receiving a full charge, I have used Level 1, 2, and 3 chargers since I got the car. Is anyone else experiencing this? The dealer said it was because it is an adaptive system but I don't know if that applies here???
I have the same issue I was getting 294 and now I can’t get no more then 254 and 10 to 80 % only 187 and I was getting 240 , all I’m guessing is the drive style changes the miles drastically and the AWD is sold with 256 miles on the market. It would have been nice with 300 miles lol
 

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2022 IONIQ5 Limited AWD Cyber Gray
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I have the same issue I was getting 294 and now I can’t get no more then 254 and 10 to 80 % only 187 and I was getting 240 , all I’m guessing is the drive style changes the miles drastically and the AWD is sold with 256 miles on the market. It would have been nice with 300 miles lol
depends on what trim, 256 is se awd, 241 is limited awd. Also it’s winter. I was getting 303 miles estimate on my limited awd in a mid 70’s climate a few days ago, now that I’m in 40’s it’s 232 miles. It’s a factor of your driving, the tomography and weather of the last cycle.
 

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22 I5 SEL RWD
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@ctromley 's post above is excellent advice on how to improve your range. What he said!

Another real-time feedback I find useful to monitor is my current trip's displayed miles per kWhr. I5 has a 77 kWhr battery, so if you want to get 300 miles out of a full charge you need to be averaging 3.93 mi/kWhr. I live in a warm climate and do probably 70% of my miles in urban/suburban driving; remaining miles are short freeway stretches under 20 miles where I rarely exceed 65 mph. Our SEL RWD routinely gets 4.2 mi/kWhr in these conditions, so yes, it can easily get 300+ miles. You drive in the cold, it won't. You drive long freeway stretches, particularly at speeds over 70, it won't.
 

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I get 3.8 mi/KWhr. It's often cold, often raining and I'm often on dual carriageway with a 70mph speed limit.
I never really look at the GOM. I generally charge to 80% but sometimes 100% if I'm setting off on a long journey.
Everything in the car comes off the main battery - the hi-fi, the heating/cooling, the wipers - so it's not just driving style but how you use the car in general that impacts the range.
 

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I have been driving my Ioniq5 for about 3 weeks. When I first got it, it was charged up to close to 300 miles. Ever since the first week, the max I will get when the battery is at 100% is roughly 266 and now it seems to have dropped again to around 250 after receiving a full charge, I have used Level 1, 2, and 3 chargers since I got the car. Is anyone else experiencing this? The dealer said it was because it is an adaptive system but I don't know if that applies here???
I'm only getting 223 on a full charge, very disappointed, hopefully future software updates can make a considerable difference on battery life.
 

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2022, Teal Limited AWD
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100000% stop looking at the GOM estimated range. Look at the mi/kwh after you start driving. To put it in basic ICE form, that is your mpg. Multiply that by your total battery size and that will be a better estimate of your range. COLD deeply affects range. ALL EVs will loose a lot of range as temps dip.
 

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I have been driving my Ioniq5 for about 3 weeks. When I first got it, it was charged up to close to 300 miles. Ever since the first week, the max I will get when the battery is at 100% is roughly 266 and now it seems to have dropped again to around 250 after receiving a full charge, I have used Level 1, 2, and 3 chargers since I got the car. Is anyone else experiencing this? The dealer said it was because it is an adaptive system but I don't know if that applies here???
Focus on the mi/kwh rather than the guestimated range. This measure of miles per kWt is the EV equivalent of mpg for an ICE vehicle. The mi/kwh is a realtime measure of efficiency under current conditions and driving pattern. The system lets you see this figure in realtime, for this trip, since last charge, and for the life of the vehicle. Watching that number will teach you a lot about the impact of temperature, speed, driving style, and other factors.
 

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Moral of the story. The heat uses 1000 - 3000 watts of power constantly in very cold temperatures. That's about 10-15% of your propulsion energy. If you want to see information on full display go to the menu>EV>menu button (three bars)>battery stays or electric usage>and usage one more time. The menu is kinda dumb since the update.
 

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My average consumption is 3.7mpkw after two winters.
I live in a hilly area and drive at around 70mph on some of my local roads.
On very cold days I have the climate set to 20c, but most of the time I'm between 18c and 19c. I dress for the outside as I'm usually driving for less than an hour. It amazes me to see people driving in t-shirts in the depths of winter.
 
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