Excellent explanation!👍
Just wrote a new thread about the speaker replacement part.Thanks.
Waiting patiently for speaker review.
Just wrote a new thread about the speaker replacement part.
As for speaker choice, I auditioned JL Audio, Focal, JBL, Infinity, Pioneer, and Alpine and ended up with the Infinity Reference REF-6530CX for the front component. Caveat, I am a classically trained musician and I used to write for a high-end home hi fi magazine in the UK, and my criteria are balanced clarity and neutral tonality. I am not a bass head, although this system gives plenty of bass. Other people may have different preferences.
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Weird, that post is "waiting for approval". I've never seen that before. @Ou Boet @IONIQ Admin @bluecar1 ? I just spent 2 hours writing out that post for the community.Hi. Are the replacement speakers running of the factory headunit?
The sparked thread doesn’t work.
The post is back alive.Hi. Are the replacement speakers running of the factory headunit?
The sparked thread doesn’t work.
Are there any extra connectors needed to install the infinity?Just wrote a new thread about the speaker replacement part.
As for speaker choice, I auditioned JL Audio, Focal, JBL, Infinity, Pioneer, and Alpine and ended up with the Infinity Reference REF-6530CX for the front component. Caveat, I am a classically trained musician and I used to write for a high-end home hi fi magazine in the UK, and my criteria are balanced clarity and neutral tonality. I am not a bass head, although this system gives plenty of bass. Other people may have different preferences.
Yes, and I just wrote a whole post about the installation. Enjoy!Are there any extra connectors needed to install the infinity?
Amazon sells two pairs for $180CAN, In your opinion, is it worth to get this set and replace back door speakers (factory Bose) as well? did you encounter any issues with the installation?Just wrote a new thread about the speaker replacement part.
As for speaker choice, I auditioned JL Audio, Focal, JBL, Infinity, Pioneer, and Alpine and ended up with the Infinity Reference REF-6530CX for the front component. Caveat, I am a classically trained musician and I used to write for a high-end home hi fi magazine in the UK, and my criteria are balanced clarity and neutral tonality. I am not a bass head, although this system gives plenty of bass. Other people may have different preferences.
I have an SEL and used the Reference Coaxial for the rear (no separate component for the back for the SE/SEL). Crutchfield told me that the 6 1/2 inch is too deep for the rear and sold me the 5 1/4" with a bracket to fit. Double check the fit on Crutchfield's website and if that works out, I'd say go for it. The sound quality for the buck is really great.Amazon sells two pairs for $180CAN, In your opinion, is it worth to get this set and replace back door speakers (factory Bose) as well? did you encounter any issues with the installation?
this might sound stupid but how do you put it back on? Is it harder than removing it?Just finished swapping out the front speakers on the SEL (non-Bose). I found only one YouTube video in Japanese with instructions to remove the door panel and I thought some details could be useful for everyone here. I will also state some lessons learned during the process as I edit to add more details.
Tools needed (for door panel removal)
Difficulty: Medium
- Philips screwdriver
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Panel removal tools
Time required: 10 minutes
Steps:
1. Using the left door as an example, the right door procedure is identical. Open the door wide.
2. Using a panel tool, pry off the tweeter cover. Reach from the location as shown below. Work your way UP and pry. It's ok, the holding clip is a springed metal clip.
View attachment 48870
Two clips hold this cover in place. The metal clip will pop out as you pry, and if you twist the plastic cover slightly clockwise, the plastic clip will detach more easily.
View attachment 48871
You can unplug the tweeter assembly by releasing the harness. Set the assembly aside.
3. Remove Phillips screw 1 (as shown in the photo below). For Phillips screw 2, use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry open the flap, then remove the screw.
View attachment 48866
4. Use the panel tool and slide it into the notched space at the bottom of the door panel (as shown above and below). Work your way to the left and right, and pry toward you to open the door panel. Wiggle and pry as you go. It can be pretty tight, and some force is needed. However, if you look at the picture below and see where the retaining clips are, you can exert force more in the right locations more accurately and it can make "popping" the clips easier.
View attachment 48867
Here are the locations of all 12 clips.
View attachment 48868
4. Once you have wiggled and pried loose all the clips, you can hold the panel and lift it to release.
View attachment 48869
5. Once you have lifted the door panel up, you will see three connections in the back: the door release cable, and two electrical harnesses. Press the lever on the yellow latch to disconnect the door release cable.
View attachment 48873
6. Release the two electrical harnesses by pressing on the respective levers as well.
View attachment 48874
With these connectors off, the door panel is completely free.
View attachment 48875