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Ioniq 38kwh real life range

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75K views 100 replies 28 participants last post by  scimitarjohn  
#1 ·
Started this chat in another thread but better to start a new one. People finally seem to be receiving their new 38 kWh models. Mine is due January. Can we have some real life feedback around actual range and how the slower charging time works out in reality. Any information would be much appreciated.
 
#2 ·
The WLTP range of 311 km is actually feasible! I have my Ioniq 38kWh now for a month and even in this cold period it's possible. One thing: the airco consumes about 8%, so use with care.
Last charge load a managed to have a average power consumption of 12.1 kWh/100km.
 
#3 ·
I've done 900 miles so far, mainly urban with one 300 mile round trip. Stats at present show average 4.4 miles per kWh. Not brilliant, but in the warmer weather it was certainly achieving the 194 miles per full charge. In fact it went over this once or twice. Recently I have been doing a lot of very short trips - 2 - 5 miles and using the car from about 1 - 5%C. We have had frosts lately. (Yes, I have also walked a few of those short trips!) So understandably, the efficiency will have reduced recently.

Charging with the home 7kWh charger: it tends to start slowly and also fluctuates somewhat during the charge. Can't actually tell you the 20% to 80% standard charge time but the time remaining to the target charge % is very accurate, so you can rely on when it's ready to roll.

On the public charging front, 2 lessons learned. If the CCS connection doesn't work, don't use the AC43 connection (unless you have plenty of time): it will only charge at 7kWh. Some Polar charging stations can only service one car at a time, there are 2 bays, but one is a "waiting" bay.

Also, I have the 3 month free Polar Plus card and have used it a few times, but as yet my account shows "You currently have no bills". Cannot really believe that Polar provides 3 free months of card subscription and free electricity, but so far, this hasn't cost me anything. Whilst the inside of the charging compartment gets quite wet, I have needed, before the home charger arrived, to use the "granny" 3kWh charger, via an open window, often in pouring rain, without any problems.

Love driving the car.
 
#6 ·
You can find here a Google Sheet with info on real-world data on efficiency and range for different circumstances (warmer/colder, higher/lower speed, heater/ no heater). Please add your own numbers.
 
#22 ·
You can find here a Google Sheet
Useful spreadsheet thank you.

In the Efficiency tab, I have entered formulae to convert from kWh/100km to fill in the 3 blank columns for the other efficiency measures, if that's OK. In italics to indicate converted from the original entry.
 
#12 ·
1. Average speed can be a bit tricky as it can differ a lot during a trip with different types of roads. There should be some menu for it, but you can also estimate it yourself.
2. Yes also shorter trips are OK, but the longer the better. Especially without preheating the heating may dominate more for a shorter trip. Mine to work are around 50 km, but often with preheating.
3. Also this you have to estimate. Sport driving mode is bad, bad weather (wind, rain, snow) is bad. But temperature does not count here as this is already indicated separately.
 
#11 ·
I got mine three days ago, and did a trip of around 238km the second day. Did a 10kwh fast charge on a 50kw charger with 30% left, as I knew there woule be no fast chargers for the last 50km of the trip. This took 18 minutes to charge. When I arrived at destination I had 35% left. Outside temperature was fluctuating between 2 and 6 degrees Celsius and I used the heater the whole trip. About half trip was on highways.

Today I drove back, but did a detour, total distance 306km, I charged 16.8kwh on a 50kw charger when I had around 25% batt left, took me 29 minutes. When I arrived home I had 5% battery left. Again temperatures around 5C, with heater on the whole way. Also had a passenger and a full trunk of mostly heavy items.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I saw you added it to the above-mentioned Google Sheet. One more thing, for the range it is meant there the maximal range if you would use a full battery. You can easily calculate it from your 13.8 kWh/100km, by calculating how many times the 13.8 fits in a maximal charge of 38.3; this goes as follows: 100*38.3/13.8 = 278 km. I corrected that entry for you.
(In the Sheet I renamed the heading 'Range' now to 'Range for a full battery' to make this more clear.)
 
#23 ·
I received my car a few days ago. Have only driven around 20 miles so cant comment on real range just yet. However when I first charged to 100% it showed 177 miles. Then I topped it up again and it increased to 180 miles. Overnight temps have been below freezing.

One thing I found is that there is a winter setting which apparently improves performance but reduces range slightly, so 180 looks good to me. I'm going to run it down now to get a better idea of real range.
 
#28 ·
Welcome here! Can you add some details to your profile and signature?

Do you mean whether the 100% charge is leaking away? I did not notice any, but I never charge up to 100% and then leave it unused.
Degradation is the term generally used for the loss of maximal capacity over time; that happens when you leave the car fully charged for longer times, so better avoid that.
 
#31 ·
It's generally thought that always charging to 100% degrades degrades the battery over time. If you dont need the full range, it's a good idea to charge to around 80%. In the EV settings menu, theres an option to set the maximum charge level.
 
#33 ·
You've got it. Lithium ion batteries have an optimum state of charge between 20% to 80% and for everyday commuting that 60% is usually ok. They do not like to be completely drained, and the car won't let you. They also do not like to stand for long periods at 100% charge, although the cells need to be balanced once a month which requires a 100% charge. If you are charging to 100%, drive the car the next day just to drop it from 100%. Also try to avoid deep charge/recharge cycles if at all possible as these can also affect the degradation.
It depends on how long you are going to keep the car. If you swap your cars every few years then don't worry about the battery, it should last for over a decade or more. (Although the battery health may be checked if a seller pays for an inspection by the AA or RAC etc.)
 
#37 ·
Recycling of batteries is possible, but at the moment there are so few completely exhausted batteries around that it isn't economically feasible at the moment. Give it 10 years though when the first generation EV batteries have finally given up the ghost, and a new industry will spring up. Tesla are already in talks with another company to set up a recycling operation in the future.