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IONIC 5 Avoid buying

4K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  SonicSpinner 
#1 ·
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IONIC5 Avoid buying
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IONIC 5, picked up 2 days ago, home from showroom 70km no problem. Went to go out 4 hours later, no drive or reverse, despite restarting with pedal down etc, car would never state ready. Called breakdown out - by the time they arrived 12v was dead. Following morning dealer sent an engineer with a new battery 12v. Car started with ready, and went for a short drive. Lunchtime today 48 hours after getting the car, drove 1.5k to store, came out and drive or reverse would not work and car would not go into ready. Called dealer and walked home !, they came out a few hours later, amp test on 12v showed 11.3amps, so they attached a jump boost still nothing. Only way to get drive back was to disconnect the 12v and reset. The car has now gone back to the dealer. Does bluelink kill the 12v ??. Right now i will be moving for a refund. This is not what i expect from a Car. So warning you could drive and get stuck in the middle of nowhere. Thanks Hyundai. Too much reliance on the 12v with all the infotainment etc and bluelink. This car is unreliable
 
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#2 ·
Too much reliance on the 12v with all the infotainment etc and bluelink.
Which is 100% of every new car model. Pretty random which car has excess current (or maybe CPU issue). A sample size of one doesn't mean the entire model is bad, nor the manufacturer. Hope they fix it for you.
 
#3 ·
With the number of issues related to this in other forums and posts, this clearly is not a one off occurance, and should not be happening to a car two days old, be it CPU or some other unknown reason, this is not fit for purpose. And diagnostics do not see a problem.
 
#4 ·
this a huuuuuuuuuuuuuge problem for ioniq5 and kia ev6 atm. just look the the german forums, goinelectric, and nordic fb pages.
however the germans have identified the problem, and also a workaround to fix this untill hyundai germany engineers finds a permenant solution.
this is called Zombie mode problem. lol

anyways make sure first of all you have all the latest MCU updates installed. drive, bms etc.they were released few weeks ago. only the dealer can check it by connecting a diagnostic tool to the car, and checks if they are installed or not.

anyways, the problem seems to come from the charging flap/port. when opening with either bluelink app, or manual. cant quiet remember. but this chargin flap, kills the car.
the workaround to fix this when you are in that situation is.

1. shut down the car
2. leave the car and lock it
3. launch the bluelink app on your phone
4. start the AC on the car from the bluelink app.
5. when you hear that that the AC or heater has started. then unlock the car, go inside,
6. and now you can turn on and change to drive. ( with break pedal down )
 
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