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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Note, I am working with 2019 HEV, the most base model.

Staying to get hot and my air conditioner output was not getting cold enough. it was barely tolerable to be in the cabin. There was only some times the air out of the vents felt properly cold, with seemingly no rhyme or reason. This made me confident that the physical AC system was fine, had refrigerant and wasn't a leak problem.
But most of the time the air output was barely cool, even when it's on Lo and Max fan speed.

Well completely by accident I discovered how to get AC to work consistently like you expect to and make the cabin comfortable again.

You gotta run the car in ICE mode, no kidding. I learned how to do this from another thread on this forum, during a completely different and unrelated issue with 12v power.

The other day I took a nap in a parking lot, left car on, ran out of gas, drove on just electric to nearest gas station, once I got gas, I wanted to make sure the high voltage battery was charged really good so I started the car in ICE mode. While in this mode I noticed how much more pleasant the cabin was to be in.

Here's my understanding of what's happening, (note I am only making an educated guess and welcome any correction by true facts)

I believe the issue is caused when the High Voltage battery State of Charge (SOC) is hovering at a sub optimal level, where the amount of Charge from the hybrid system going into the HV battery is equal to the amount consumed.. so just like constant net zero and never allowed to be fully charged.

The way I understand Hybrids in general always prioritize power generated to the HV battery first, and the HV battery charges the remaining supplemental batteries only when it is sufficiently charged, and not before.

So my theory is, if the high voltage battery state of Charge straddles the threshold of sub optimal voltage for a long period over time, it then can't keep the traction battery consistently topped up, and then the traction battery has to cease output to circuits with lower priority, which could include, and is probably not limited to, the condenser compressor for the ac system.

So my solution solves this issue because with the engine running idle, there is enough power generated and going into the high voltage battery such that the HV battery can then provide enough to prevent the traction battery from having to cut power to Auxillary systems.

In conclusion, if your AC just isn't getting there where it should be... You should increase the Overall State of Charge to the high voltage battery.

In my experience, an occasional drive on a freeway with the car Initially started in ice mode, and the shifter in sport setting is all I need to achieve a 100% charge.
I wouldn't recommend ice mode used to drive in urban areas with lots of stops.
I would recommend ice mode for long idle stationary time sitting inside the car when it's hot outside to keep the AC cold.

How to start in ice mode?

Hang on...
First make sure the car is turned off by verifying there is no Green Car with Arrows symbol, and the start button light isn't lit at all.
Second, Before you perform this, I'm warning you now to Engage the parking brake if you are attempting this for the first time and don't have the hang of it. If you're on level ground, or you're practiced enough, you don't necessarily need to apply the parking brake every time. It is not required in the sequence.

Note, timing between the inputs does not appear to matter, so don't rush. Also do Exactly as written and you'll achieve ice mode. If you didn't, then read again and try again
If you're not getting it, Keep in mind that a normal start is when you hold the brake and push start. do Exactly what is written and nothing else. If you started the car normally then simply turn it off before going again.

Okay, the instructions for the sequence to start the car in ICE mode are as follows:

  1. Press the Engine Start button two times, (this should make the light on the button blue)
  2. Fully press the brake down, and then release
  3. Fully press the gas pedal, then release, twice
  4. Fully press the brake pedal down, hold it down
  5. Move the shifter lever from P down to N
  6. Release the brake pedal
  7. Fully press the gas pedal, then release, twice
  8. Fully press the brake pedal down, and hold
  9. Move the shifter lever from N to P
  10. Release the brake pedal
  11. Fully press the gas pedal, then release, twice
  12. Fully press the brake pedal down, and hold
  13. Press the Engine Start Button
A successful attempt is indicated by a flashing green car with Arrows light, and the gauge cluster tachometer showing the engine RPM is active even when the car is in EV mode.

To disable ICE mode, turn the car off as you normally would. The sequence must be performed each time so no need to worry about it.

Let me know if this helped anyone get cooler (y)

I wrote this on my phone so I'll fix formatting later
 

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WOW! Alternatively, start the car and drive norfmally, the ICE will cut in and out all the time. If you don't think the AC is cold enough, get it fixed under warranty, that's what it's for as long as you've had the car serviced properly and to schedule.
 

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WOW! Alternatively, start the car and drive norfmally,
I laughed so hard reading this that it made my coworkers jump!!

I'm assuming that this massively outrageous sequence is designed for dealerships to keep gas engine running for whatever their purposes may be, diagnostics, testing, etc.

@HeshNeedsCandy: laughs aside, I agree fully with @Steel188. These cars have automatic HVAC systems, designed to achieve and hold a set temperature. If you need to go through that kind of process just to stay comfortable, it needs to be fixed. That is not normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
WOW! Alternatively, start the car and drive norfmally, the ICE will cut in and out all the time. If you don't think the AC is cold enough, get it fixed under warranty, that's what it's for as long as you've had the car serviced properly and to schedule.
I laughed so hard reading this that it made my coworkers jump!!

I'm assuming that this massively outrageous sequence is designed for dealerships to keep gas engine running for whatever their purposes may be, diagnostics, testing, etc.

@[email protected]. These cars have automatic HVAC systems, designed to achieve and hold a set temperature. If you need to go through that kind of process just to stay comfortable, it needs to be fixed. That is not normal.
I appreciate the additional information added. However it's only nice for those that have warranties, and for those that can afford to and have time to get it fixed within moments of it first occurring.
That's really good for you guys though I'm happy you have these opportunities.

Steel, thanks for the input. Unfortunately it reads like you're coming off a bit rude for some reason? A bit condescending. Let's keep it to information shared for anyone to pick up
WOW! Alternatively, start the car and drive norfmally, the ICE will cut in and out all the time. If you don't think the AC is cold enough, get it fixed under warranty, that's what it's for as long as you've had the car serviced properly and to schedule.
Thanks for the condescension and obvious statements.
Your post doesn't undo my experience, doesn't apply to me or anyone else who does not have warranty service available to them, comes off rude, and entitled.

Even with warranty service, wouldn't it be nice if you were having this problem and a 5 second Google search made you more comfortable while you awaited your appointment to the dealership?

Please try to stay on topic and keep in mind a forum should welcome all relevant information to help anyone in any situation.

If something does not apply to you, you are not under any obligation to post a reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At this moment it seems like I should make it clear that with my HV battery in a good State of Charge, the air conditioner works fine.
I do not need to perform the ice mode start up every time I need to use the AC.
 

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At this moment it seems like I should make it clear that with my HV battery in a good State of Charge, the air conditioner works fine.
I do not need to perform the ice mode start up every time I need to use the AC.
Can you clarify if you have the HEV or the PHEV. Because if you have an HEV you probably don't want the HV battery fully charged because then you will not be able to access regen braking. Additionally, it is my understanding that the HVAC system on the hybrid (HEV and PHEV) IONIQs is drive from the ICE (but I could be wrong), therefore, anytime cooling is required, will necessitate the ICE to cycle on and off the drive the compressor. But that should happen automatically.
 
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OK, let's not get into a slanging match here, this is an international forum and perceptions of what is rude vary greatly around the world, having re-read my original post, I stand by what I said and how it was phrased.

Amongst adults, stating facts does not need dressing up or consideration for the feelings of the receipient, not to a 57 year old Englishman anyway. I wasn't abusive or use bad language. Equally, here in the UK, all Ioniqs come with a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty, unless it's a hire for rewared vehicle, such as a taxi, where the warranty is restricted to 100K in 5 years, so to me any 2019 car still has warranty unless you are driving more than 1000 miles a week, in which case it would be a company car like mine, not your own.

My car will be gone before the warranty expires, but I expect it to work perfectly all the time or for the dealer to fix it promptly. As long as I stick to my side of the bargain and ensure it is serviced every 10,000 miles (I have 3 such services a year), check fluids and tyre pressues regularly there is no reason for this not to happen. I would never expect to require a service centre work around to make something work as expected. When deciding on a car, it is the driver's responsibility to ensure they budget for all the servicing, repairs and other maintenance that will be needed at the time it is required. I always read the service record when collecting my car and won't take the it away unless it says the aircon has been fully tested, especially as I ensure 'test ac, and regas as required', is always on the worksheet.

What is deamed acceptable as the delay between making a call and the service department looking at a car varies depending on the issue. I am fortunate enough to have all round LED lights, if one of those were to blow, anything other than a couple of hours would be unacceptable, but waiting 10 days for a routine service with a loan car is fine, it's up to me to time it properly.
 

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Can you clarify if you have the HEV or the PHEV. Because if you have an HEV you probably don't want the HV battery fully charged because then you will not be able to access regen braking. Additionally, it is my understanding that the HVAC system on the hybrid (HEV and PHEV) IONIQs is drive from the ICE (but I could be wrong), therefore, anytime cooling is required, will necessitate the ICE to cycle on and off the drive the compressor. But that should happen automatically.
My point exactly, that is how an HEV works. If it doesn't, the car needs fixing.
 

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Ok, I'm going to dissect this, but first, you've been a member of this forum for 2 months. I've been a member of this forum for almost 4 years, @Steel188 has been for over a year. I had no intention of offending you, and I know for a fact that @Steel188 had no ill-intentions either. I always warn people to never try to interpret tone, attitude, or intention from reading text. You're planting your own interpretation of one's intention based on what you think people are saying, which can be easily wrong.

I appreciate the additional information added. However it's only nice for those that have warranties, and for those that can afford to and have time to get it fixed within moments of it first occurring.
That's really good for you guys though I'm happy you have these opportunities.
This is just a strange statement. I'd like to know how you have the time for oil changes if taking a car in for a diagnostic is so wildly outrageous.

Steel, thanks for the input. Unfortunately it reads like you're coming off a bit rude for some reason? A bit condescending. Let's keep it to information shared for anyone to pick up
I'd argue that your comments come off as rude or condescending, for example, when you say "That's really good for you guys though I'm happy you have these opportunities". But again, that's just my interpretation.

At this moment it seems like I should make it clear that with my HV battery in a good State of Charge, the air conditioner works fine.
I do not need to perform the ice mode start up every time I need to use the AC.
So what are you trying to accomplish here? If everything works fine and the temperature doesn't feel right for you, what happens when you adjust the temperature? If you lower it to Lo, does it get very cold? When you crank it to the max, does it get too hot?

Even with warranty service, wouldn't it be nice if you were having this problem and a 5 second Google search made you more comfortable while you awaited your appointment to the dealership?

Please try to stay on topic and keep in mind a forum should welcome all relevant information to help anyone in any situation.

If something does not apply to you, you are not under any obligation to post a reply.
You're on a forum, you're going to get a wide variety of opinions, some of which may apply to you and some that won't. You gave a huge procedure to accomplish something, we simply tried to imply that something might be wrong and you might want to get it looked at by a licensed technician, not Google.

I'm going to end this positively if you will take it as such. Again, I've been on this forum for almost 4 years now. Wide variety of opinions, but I would say that 99.9% of all opinions have always appeared to have the best of intentions. I hope you get your issue sorted out, but I stand by what I said: if you need to kick the pedals 3,000 times and switch between park, drive, neutral, or whatever just to get the car in a state where the air gets cold enough for you, something is wrong, and you most likely won't be able to fix it yourself, thus I suggest having an auto tech look at it (if you can find the time -- sorry, couldn't help it :)) I do wish you success with this though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you clarify if you have the HEV or the PHEV. Because if you have an HEV you probably don't want the HV battery fully charged because then you will not be able to access regen braking. Additionally, it is my understanding that the HVAC system on the hybrid (HEV and PHEV) IONIQs is drive from the ICE (but I could be wrong), therefore, anytime cooling is required, will necessitate the ICE to cycle on and off the drive the compressor. But that should happen automatically.
I believe this is clarified in the very first sentence of my post. But it's entirely possible I may not understand what you're looking for.
I suppose just let me know after you've looked at it if it's not what you need to know and we'll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, let's not get into a slanging match here, this is an international forum and perceptions of what is rude vary greatly around the world, having re-read my original post, I stand by what I said and how it was phrased.



Amongst adults, stating facts does not need dressing up or consideration for the feelings of the receipient, not to a 57 year old Englishman anyway. I wasn't abusive or use bad language. Equally, here in the UK, all Ioniqs come with a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty, unless it's a hire for rewared vehicle, such as a taxi, where the warranty is restricted to 100K in 5 years, so to me any 2019 car still has warranty unless you are driving more than 1000 miles a week, in which case it would be a company car like mine, not your own.



My car will be gone before the warranty expires, but I expect it to work perfectly all the time or for the dealer to fix it promptly. As long as I stick to my side of the bargain and ensure it is serviced every 10,000 miles (I have 3 such services a year), check fluids and tyre pressues regularly there is no reason for this not to happen. I would never expect to require a service centre work around to make something work as expected. When deciding on a car, it is the driver's responsibility to ensure they budget for all the servicing, repairs and other maintenance that will be needed at the time it is required. I always read the service record when collecting my car and won't take the it away unless it says the aircon has been fully tested, especially as I ensure 'test ac, and regas as required', is always on the worksheet.



What is deamed acceptable as the delay between making a call and the service department looking at a car varies depending on the issue. I am fortunate enough to have all round LED lights, if one of those were to blow, anything other than a couple of hours would be unacceptable, but waiting 10 days for a routine service with a loan car is fine, it's up to me to time it properly.


I guess I need to be more direct?

Please do not continue making this post about yourself. Not everyone is you and has your same experience. And other experiences do not need to be judged based off of what you would or would not do.



The information is still valid and it's still valuable to know and if you ever got put in the situation and had to try it yourself, maybe that's what it would take for you Fully understand this. I'll try to refrain from grinning on that day...

For now we will have to continue without your validation I'm afraid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok, I'm going to dissect this, but first, you've been a member of this forum for 2 months. I've been a member of this forum for almost 4 years, @Steel188 has been for over a year. I had no intention of offending you, and I know for a fact that @Steel188 had no ill-intentions either. I always warn people to never try to interpret tone, attitude, or intention from reading text. You're planting your own interpretation of one's intention based on what you think people are saying, which can be easily wrong.



This is just a strange statement. I'd like to know how you have the time for oil changes if taking a car in for a diagnostic is so wildly outrageous.



I'd argue that your comments come off as rude or condescending, for example, when you say "That's really good for you guys though I'm happy you have these opportunities". But again, that's just my interpretation.



So what are you trying to accomplish here? If everything works fine and the temperature doesn't feel right for you, what happens when you adjust the temperature? If you lower it to Lo, does it get very cold? When you crank it to the max, does it get too hot?



You're on a forum, you're going to get a wide variety of opinions, some of which may apply to you and some that won't. You gave a huge procedure to accomplish something, we simply tried to imply that something might be wrong and you might want to get it looked at by a licensed technician, not Google.

I'm going to end this positively if you will take it as such. Again, I've been on this forum for almost 4 years now. Wide variety of opinions, but I would say that 99.9% of all opinions have always appeared to have the best of intentions. I hope you get your issue sorted out, but I stand by what I said: if you need to kick the pedals 3,000 times and switch between park, drive, neutral, or whatever just to get the car in a state where the air gets cold enough for you, something is wrong, and you most likely won't be able to fix it yourself, thus I suggest having an auto tech look at it (if you can find the time -- sorry, couldn't help it :)) I do wish you success with this though.
Mralex to you I apologize for grouping you with steel only because you also had warranty service available. You've been respectful so again sorry.

But I'm not sure what the gross misunderstanding is... What do I wish to accomplish? The title is indicative of that; information sharing. I'm sharing out that you can try what I did to feel more comfortable if you're in the same position. Nothing more.
When I stated, "make your AC work like you expect it to" should have been enough to be clear, I assumed, to indicate I'm aware that it's NOT working as it ideally should be.
Yes I posted it in a forum, and I understand I'll get a range of opinions, but what I expected was more "good to know" and not "that's broken go get it fixed" because that kind of comment would be ignorant of the fact that it's still entirely likely and possible for your AC to malfunction at any moment and that a person should just sit in the heat and deal with it until it can be fixed.


So again to rephrase, the intent of the post was to help someone in the same position able to find some comfort. If it helped one person then I'm happy with that.

I'm more of the type of person that soaks all information and files it away just in case. Just saying since you pointed out I'm new to this forum.

Also I appreciate you trying to clear things up but I don't feel reassured about how you feel about steels intentions. The guy started it off with "WOW" in other words just drive normally...

How is one meant to take such a seemingly dismissive reply? It's disrespectful especially to new people.

You might have a certain familiarity with steel but remember not everyone is going to get it like you might. He should probably be more aware of his demeanor.
 

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Mralex to you I apologize for grouping you with steel only because you also had warranty service available. You've been respectful so again sorry.

But I'm not sure what the gross misunderstanding is... What do I wish to accomplish? The title is indicative of that; information sharing. I'm sharing out that you can try what I did to feel more comfortable if you're in the same position. Nothing more.
When I stated, "make your AC work like you expect it to" should have been enough to be clear, I assumed, to indicate I'm aware that it's NOT working as it ideally should be.
Yes I posted it in a forum, and I understand I'll get a range of opinions, but what I expected was more "good to know" and not "that's broken go get it fixed" because that kind of comment would be ignorant of the fact that it's still entirely likely and possible for your AC to malfunction at any moment and that a person should just sit in the heat and deal with it until it can be fixed.

I'm more of the type of person that soaks all information and files it away just in case. Just saying since you pointed out I'm new to this forum.
All fair points. You are right, those who like to find their own solutions instead of getting an auto tech’s help will most likely appreciate it. And it does provide a solution, I just feel it’s a temporary one. I just can’t wrap my head around running through that sequence if it’s 40+ outside (maybe 105F?). My kids would melt waiting for me to get the car moving lol

Since the A/C works just not “perfectly”, any chance the ambient temp sensors in the car have malfunctioned? When I had work done on my Corolla years ago, they installed a new heat coil but forgot to reconnect those sensors.It was so bad that I took the car back within 20 minutes, more so because it kept fogging the windshield up unintentionally.

EDIT: a final though on the little misunderstanding, @Steel188 is upstanding and most likely was not trying to insult you. I’ve had lots of discussions on this forum, everybody is friendly even if we disagree. Disagreements are what make these convos so enjoyable, but always with the best of intentions in my experience.
 

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Let's leave it here, each of us is directly influenced by their individual experiences and expectations. For me, a car is a business tool (over 1.2million miles in 30 years), much like my laptop or a pen, it must be there, it must work, but I must take care of it. For others, it's a far more emotional attachment that draws on their very being. There is merit in both scenarios as there is in everything inbetween. Age, life experiences, nationality and cultural norms all influence our responces to the way things are said and written, but I hope we can agree that hopefully no one deliberately starts out to be rude. Remember, in a forum like this where the common language is English we are citizens of the world separated by a common language. I did not set out to cause offence but we Brits are renowned for being percieved as sarcastic by many others simply by opening our mouths to speak. But if we were all the same, wouldn't life be boring! It's now 1am here so I will wish you all a good night and a pleasant rest of your day.
 
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Additionally, it is my understanding that the HVAC system on the hybrid (HEV and PHEV) IONIQs is drive from the ICE (but I could be wrong), therefore, anytime cooling is required, will necessitate the ICE to cycle on and off the drive the compressor.
The air conditioning is electric on the PHEV and the HEV, connected to the high voltage battery. The PHEV battery has a higher voltage (360 nominal) than the HEV though (240), so may use a different compressor that's less sensitive to the HV battery level.
 
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An interesting post but a complicated starting procedure just to get the ICE to charge up the HV battery. Another possibility is just to use sport mode which usually puts a fair bit of charge into the battery, and can of course be used even after starting normally. The AC is electrically powered on the HEV which is usually a great benefit, my last car (non hybrid ice) kept the engine running even while stationery just to run the AC.
 

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As I vaguely recall from a post quite awhile ago, this may also be how one starts their IONIQ if the traction battery is kaput so you could still drive to service or home sweet home.
 

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Back on original topic, at least one video link showing how to start in ICE mode has been posted on this forum previously. Yup, convoluted for sure. As I understand it, the primary use for it is if your hybrid system malfunctions, you can still use ICE mode to complete your journey despite the dire dialogs presented. Of course, you probably won't have directions for this in your otherwise stalled vehicle without a Google search on your phone. That would not be fun. I certainly won't practice this before I actually experience such a rare breakdown.

As to the OP's theory about traction battery charge, interesting. If true, there is still an easier way to fix the problem. Sport mode tends to increase battery charge. So just stay in Sport and see if AC recovers. Also, if true, it would seem to suggest battery failure because voltage has dropped.

Edit: Oops, sorry HyperIoniq - I didn't see your much more succinct description for use of this procedure.
 
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