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Has anyone noticed with the auto-dimming rear view mirror in the Premium version, that it automatically flips things so you're not viewing a mirror image??? I have a dealer sticker on the outside of my rear window and have been trying to figure out why I can read it perfectly and it only just clicked when I turned off the auto-dimming function and it flipped back!!! ?
 

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Has anyone noticed with the auto-dimming rear view mirror in the Premium version, that it automatically flips things so you're not viewing a mirror image??? I have a dealer sticker on the outside of my rear window and have been trying to figure out why I can read it perfectly and it only just clicked when I turned off the auto-dimming function and it flipped back!!! ?
That is becasue the sticker is see-through, so if you look at the back windows directly you will see the sticker backwards from the inside, as the mirror reverses it appears correct :nerd:
 

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Nice thread Bluecar1.

I have been experimenting with economical driving and this is what I've found works for me in the EV.

On startup, I set regen braking to zero.

I use cruise control when up to 20 mph (32kph)and use the "+" button to increment the speed up to cruising speed.

If I see traffic ahead slowing, I use the "-" button to drop the preset speed as the cruise control slows the car.

If there are no cars in front and I approach a junction, I flick the cruise control off and use the regen paddles to decelerate, using the brake peddle at the very last moment to stop the wheels rolling.

It might sound like a faff, but it works for me.

P.S. Doing my first 200 mile (320 kilometre) round trip tomorrow in my EV. Will post my experience.
 

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You do surprise me I have 0% aggressive on this fill. It was 1% but been rounded down now

It does use a bit of averaging I think and is not instantaneous as I can pull out and be aggressive (that sounds very wrong!) and then ease right off to EV and it takes a few to switch out of aggressive


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ya 0% for me now too have been letting EV get my too about 10 mph then go gas power up to speed trying to avoid using both motors at the same time Im like 76% or more eco right now not trying too hard. I speed at least 5 mph over 90% of the time so im not going really slow or anything
 

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i can think of one round about in my whole state!

Almost impossible to avoid them this side of the pond . Just to make it clear , I very rarely use SCC on roundabouts unless it's quiet and there's something in front of me to slow me down . I never have it on when the road is deserted ,otherwise I'll just shoot across the roundabout at 50 mph . It's a bit of an art form using SCC >:)
That could handle that speed but even that one would be scary at 50 mph and high risk of hitting a person going 35-40 rest are lucky to break 30 and not crash lol
 

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That could handle that speed but even that one would be scary at 50 mph and high risk of hitting a person going 35-40 rest are lucky to break 30 and not crash lol
Just an update on that one . I now tap the brake on the final approach to the roundabout thus switching off SCC , and coast and regenerate to a halt and flick SCC on when leaving the roundabout . Works for me :D
 

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Just an update on that one . I now tap the brake on the final approach to the roundabout thus switching off SCC , and coast and regenerate to a halt and flick SCC on when leaving the roundabout . Works for me :D
Yep, I’ve learnt to do that too. Saves the car from taking off if the vehicle in front disappears!
 

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The first time that I approached a roundabout with ACC engaged the car took off as the car in front went out of sensor range and caused me to react sharply. I realised right away what had gone on of course - and as others have said I now just touch the brake to disengage on final approach to an island and then click to re-engage on the straight again. An annoying feature in towns with dozens of islands and ACC is not appropriate there. On more open faster roads with islands far apart it's no big deal to manage the situation as long as you are aware in advance.
 

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Isn't it easier to hit the steering wheel cancel button than pick up your foot?
 

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Discussion Starter #352
yep, and a smoother transition I find, then just reset the cruise when ready

I also find it better to cancel when on a long downhill so as to let the car gather a bit of speed, then once on the flat or uphill reset the cruise as the speed passes the set speed
 

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I have solar panels and I charge at a slower rate when sun shines so that all the energy comes from sun and not grid. From grid I pay around 0.13 uk pounds per Kwh, if I use solely solar panel energy I get paid 0.05 uk pounds per kwh via governments feed in tariff scheme.The sun saves me 0.18 uk pounds per Kwh
Have only recently joined and found this thread very helpful, even though my Ioniq electric is several months away.

That’s very generous feed in tariff. In Australia we only get paid for what we feed into the grid, not for production. So here any energy you self consume doesn’t get credited. Here I pay around 20 cents/kWh for power, with 8 cents FIT. When I charge the car I save 20 cents, but forgo the FIT. So my saving is only 20 - 8 = 12 cents/kWh.
 

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The rates for solar PV generation in the UK have been reducing over the last few years.

I got mine in March 2012 and have a 25 year contract, originally at £0.21/Kwh (now £0.2439), and £0.032/Kwh (now £0.0372/Kwh) on the basis that 50% of it goes back to the grid. A couple of years before that the rate was in the £0.45/Kwh range, and it was reduced on new contracts from Apr 2012.

The current set of payments is now very complex but are generally in the £0.035/Kwh range, and £0.0524/Kwh for the amount exported.

Interestingly, wind power, for the same amount of Kwh, is about twice that of solar.
 

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The rates for solar PV generation in the UK have been reducing over the last few years.

I got mine in March 2012 and have a 25 year contract, originally at £0.21/Kwh (now £0.2439), and £0.032/Kwh (now £0.0372/Kwh) on the basis that 50% of it goes back to the grid. A couple of years before that the rate was in the £0.45/Kwh range, and it was reduced on new contracts from Apr 2012.

The current set of payments is now very complex but are generally in the £0.035/Kwh range, and £0.0524/Kwh for the amount exported.

Interestingly, wind power, for the same amount of Kwh, is about twice that of solar.
Yes, I heard that too. It’s really odd, and of course the Government is closing the feed in tariff scheme entirely. I’m not sure if that includes wind power. I doubt it, given the number of huge offshore wind farms in the making.
I imagine that the planning requirement for the inclusion of solar panels on new developments where possible, has a bearing.

We came into solar late, in September 2015 and get (£0.13 FIT + £0.05 export approx) for all we produce. Currently that’s coming up to 20,000 kw/hrs in just three and half years.

If you have an existing array and add panels, this doesn’t qualify for FIT or export and must be managed by a separate inverter.

Because I have A PHEV and a BEV, I have two Zappi chargers. This required UK power Networks to install a 100amp main fuse at the meter, upgrading it from the normal 60amp.

No doubt when the Government has more free time, it will change the rules on FIT and export, if like me, you have a solar battery and a diverter to the immersion heater!
 

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When I first read this observation I thought "well we all know that". But then I thought there must be more to this comment. So after a quick look I was impressed to discover that the not only do the headrests go up and down (obviously) but they also ratchet closer to your head.
I'm amazed at how many new features I continue to discover.
Maybe if the handbook concentrated less on dire warnings and more on telling us about the cars features we wouldn't need excellent threads such as this!
 

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The above comment was supposed to refer to Knutsp's comment No. 147 re: "Front seat headrests are adjustable".
 

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Yes, I heard that too. It’s really odd, and of course the Government is closing the feed in tariff scheme entirely. I’m not sure if that includes wind power. I doubt it, given the number of huge offshore wind farms in the making.
I imagine that the planning requirement for the inclusion of solar panels on new developments where possible, has a bearing.

We came into solar late, in September 2015 and get (£0.13 FIT + £0.05 export approx) for all we produce. Currently that’s coming up to 20,000 kw/hrs in just three and half years.

If you have an existing array and add panels, this doesn’t qualify for FIT or export and must be managed by a separate inverter.

Because I have A PHEV and a BEV, I have two Zappi chargers. This required UK power Networks to install a 100amp main fuse at the meter, upgrading it from the normal 60amp.

No doubt when the Government has more free time, it will change the rules on FIT and export, if like me, you have a solar battery and a diverter to the immersion heater!
Stuck in a village with no gas supply I was running my heating on 2 pairs of 47kg cylinders with auto-divert (no space to a large tank) and at Christmas on a couple of times actually ran out of gas before the next delivery. At the same as getting the PV I also replaced the gas by an air based system, like an air con in reverse. With the money from PV my current electricity bill it is less than half of the old combined electricity and gas costs. The only problem is persuading my electrical supplier that 1850 Kwh in January, when it is freezing, does not mean that I will be using 1500 Kwh in the summer, when it is actually only 150 Kwh. >:) I am currently generating about 1750 Kwh per year, against a usage of 11200 Kwh, and I could do with getting the PVs washed but they are difficult to get at.

My next move will probably be a solar battery and any ideas would be suggested, especially, probably, since I can get that installed and 'steal' the electricity that my current FiT contract pays me for. So then any spare power from the PV I can save and use overnight, :)
 

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Stuck in a village with no gas supply I was running my heating on 2 pairs of 47kg cylinders with auto-divert (no space to a large tank) and at Christmas on a couple of times actually ran out of gas before the next delivery. At the same as getting the PV I also replaced the gas by an air based system, like an air con in reverse. With the money from PV my current electricity bill it is less than half of the old combined electricity and gas costs. The only problem is persuading my electrical supplier that 1850 Kwh in January, when it is freezing, does not mean that I will be using 1500 Kwh in the summer, when it is actually only 150 Kwh. >:) I am currently generating about 1750 Kwh per year, against a usage of 11200 Kwh, and I could do with getting the PVs washed but they are difficult to get at.

My next move will probably be a solar battery and any ideas would be suggested, especially, probably, since I can get that installed and 'steal' the electricity that my current FiT contract pays me for. So then any spare power from the PV I can save and use overnight, :)
I generate about 6000kwh per year from 28 x 250wh panels (7kwh total) so I’m guessing you have 8-10 panels. Do you think that your power out put has dropped since installation? Are there trees that have grown since installation and now shade them? Mine look dirty but do self clean to a degree. I haven’t seen a power drop in three and a half years.

I have a Tesla powerwall 2 which holds 13.5kwh. It was installed mid November and even with our PV array, didn’t get a full charge until early February. It will fully charge our Oulander PHEV if needed, though we prefer to keep it to run the house. I wouldn’t call it cost effective as it cost £6K but it’s certainly satisfying.

I’m not sure what professionals would advise but I would suggest a battery that holds Around half your maximum daily output from the best days this month. My best day in March was 30kwh generated.

The problem will always be whether there is sufficient surplus to charge a battery beyond what the house uses. If you have day/night rate you can charge on night rate of course.
Hope that helps a bit
 

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I have 16 x 250wh panels, which was the most that the FiT allowed (4Kwh) at the time. There is space for 2 more, but there is also a vent pipe in the way. I am also constrained by the fact that 10 are on a SE facing roof, with a house directly to the SE, and 6 on the SW side, of a two story house. Access to them for cleaning would involving a lot of scaffolding and it looks like the cost of that is probably more than the additional power generated.

Looking at the Kwh generated I am getting :

Apr 2012 - Mar 2013 : 3480
Apr 2013 - Mar 2014 : 3460
Apr 2014 - Mar 2015 : 3027
Apr 2015 - Mar 2016 : 2634
Apr 2016 - Mar 2017 : 2063
Apr 2017 - Mar 2018 : 1752
Apr 2018 - Mar 2019 : 1740

Obviously it is a bit dependent on the weather over the year. I have been told by one of the suppliers I looked at for the Zappi suggested that they do get dirty, even though they are self-cleaning - I can see that on the car even though it does have the Diamond Brite coating on it.

I thought about battery systems in the past but even the Centre for Alternative Technology did not yet recommend it, and the other issue is how well and and for how long will the batteries work.
 
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