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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ioniq Hybrid Premium SE - Platinum Silver

So my little baby boy has arrived, with his blue trim and mean face. My God do I love driving this car. I will write a review soon but i want to drive it a bit longer first.. I think we still have a lot to learn about each other.

For now, I iron out the quirks and get to know it, here are my questions:


  • Front LED strips on bumper - why can't I get them to turn on?
  • Driving in EV - seems to be completely random sometimes and I do feel like I should be able to outsmart the car. I accelerate to a bit more than the speed I want and break, EV light comes on and I put my foot delicately on the accelerator to keep speed, sometimes manage to keep EV on for a good 3-5mins like this, even at 70mph but then it turns off. Battery is fully charged, why can't it just drive in EV?
  • Fuel efficiency is not going over 53mpg - so much for 75mpg! I do a lot of motorway miles (80/day) and buying this was a risk due to fuel costs. Am I doing something wrong?
  • Rear view camera - not that clear and definitely not to be trusted for distance :( Going to give the car a wash today though and hopefully find that it was just dirty. Anyone else notice?

I think that's it for now.. will add more as I go along ?
 

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Put the light switch to "Auto" and the Led lights come on when they should.

Make sure your dealer has removed the protective plastic on the rear camera lens. It made a big difference....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Omg.. yes! Plastic film was still on it. What a difference! ?
As far as leds I have the lights on auto all the time..they don't come on :( do they only come on when driving?
 

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They are daytime running lights so should be in when car is able to drive. Should the dipped lights be on they should turn off. Even if lights are turned off (not on auto, sides or dipped) they should still be on when car is running.

Having looked through the manual, I don't think you can override them to be off. I can force my DRLs never to be on if I want on my golf.

I wouldn't worry too much about MPG initially, especially if you have only had it a few days. It will take time to adjust your style.

Of course if you do have any concerns though, go back to the dealer, I am sure they would be happy to take a look to put your mind at rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: leds do come on but when in drive..
:)

And yes I hope mpg improves as well!
 

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DRL's are on when in drive and parking-brake off.
Light switch in "Auto" is OK in most conditions, but when raining, snowing or fog at daylight you must not forget to turn on the lights manually!
I too get about 53-54mpg on winter tyres and cold conditions. It gets better when doing longer trips. I hope it will get better on summer-tires when temperatures are higher.
 

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Most of the hypermiling techniques that will help you get the best fuel efficiency are common sense: Be easy on the gas and easy on the brakes. A couple are not intuitive. Pulse-and-glide (P&G) is a lower-speed, around-town technique where you accelerate fairly briskly up to the speed limit (maybe a little more) then let off the accelerator and glide under battery power for as long as possible (Traffic determines how far you can glide. It's not a heavy-traffic maneuver.). The idea is that the engine needs a certain load to run most efficiently and low-speed driving doesn't provide enough load. Accelerating during the pulse puts the engine under greater load and then you shut it off during the glide. Lots of info on the web for more details of P&G.

Wayne Gerdes recently won the Guinness Book of World Records for a cross-country ( 3700+ miles) drive in the Kia Niro. He averaged 76.6 US mpg and he averaged greater than 90mpg US over the first few hundred miles where the weather was warm. His main technique was DWL (driving with load). In DWL the driver keeps a constant load on the engine in the uphill sections (watching the iFCD and letting your speed fall) and then coast with engine off on the downhill sections. He says the Niro is especially suited to DWL. Again, lots of info on the web on DWL.
 

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steady 70 on motorway under cruise y0u should get about 60mpg


steady 62 on mototway under cruise you should get about 66mpg


the more traffic you encounter the higher your mpg, its all very weird and back to front if you are used to a non hybrid
 

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The cold temperatures of this season play a big role the average fuel economy.
When, in the morning at first start (temps are about freezing point), I press the start button, the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) starts immediately. I drive away and after a few corners I stop at the traffic lights and the ICE is still running. If I then press the "off" button on the climate control, the ICE stops instantly.
So, if you are travelling short distances (say <20km) the initial running of the ICE to generate heat is of great negative influence on the average MPG (or km/l in my case).
The heat for heating the interior is always coming from the ICE. I know airco's for use at home which can be set in 'reverse', so it can be used as a heater instead of a cooling system. Why can't that be done in our cars to create an instant electric heater?
 

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that an interesting observation about the climate control influencing ICE running


will try that in the next few days :)


I have also noticed if I use sport mode for the last 1/2 mile I park the car with a battery 1 segment into the top third of the SOC and the engine don't seem to run as hard on a cold morning. for me my thinking is charge the battery when the engine is warm and more efficient rather than when cold and running rich / less efficient
 
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