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Former dieselhead reporting in

2K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  HandyAndy 
#1 ·
Hi everyone.

I've just concluded a deal for a used Ioniq Electric from 2019 with 12000 km on the odometer.
I've solely driven diesel cars for the last 5 years.
Since I live in Sweden, the government has noticed that the diesel cars are yesteryear's news and are trying to put the final nail in the coffin of diesel cars by taxing the fuel even more than what used to be the case. This, in turn, has resulted in some devaluation of diesel powered cars, and dealers are saying that it will only get worse for diesels after New Year.

I'm a husband and a father of one 7-month old boy. Any savings that can be made are more than welcome.

So it turned into a no-brainer, I went ahead and swapped my X-Trail diesel for an Ioniq. Still lost around 2.000€ on the X-Trail, but after watching every video that YouTube had on the 28kWh Ioniq in 5 different languages, I am sure that the ROI will follow in 24-36 months.

I am somewhat nervous as I don't know what exactly to expect from my first EV, but I am cautiously optimistic. I am also glad to see that there is this nice of a community regarding this particular car. Looking forward to experiencing the car, exploring the forum and hopefully to some contributing once I get to know the car.

Cheers
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Welcome! Cracking car, efficiency makes up for the modest battery size, and it charges really quickly up to a high SOC, providing the Rapid is 100 kW or better! My 38 maxes out at around 46 kW, so a lot slower, sadly. Also, being air-cooled not liquid, you avoid the expensive battery-coolant-change at the 4 year service!
 
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#3 ·
Hi Andy, thanks for the warm welcome.
The car dealer had to sort out the paperwork so I'm getting mine on Tuesday afternoon. So far, I've done a lot of research on YouTube, and have downloaded the instruction manual which apparently is only 561 pages. A bit overwhelming manual, to be honest.
From what I've gathered based on the test drive and the general impression, the car I'm picking up in 2 days is in mint condition, only 12000 km on the odometer.
I've also noticed that there wasn't any case with a granny charger, only the textile bag for the cable, which I assume is the one used for Type 2 charging.
I'm getting access to a Type 2 charging station close to my flat on 1st of December, and my employer offered me to charge the car while at work. I have access to a certified electrician who can sort the cables, fuses and all that at the company (there aren't any charging points over there right now), so a couple of straightforward questions:
Is the granny charger standard equipment with this car? That is, may I insist that the dealer provides me with one such?
If the answer to any of the above is a No - must I acquire a granny charger of my own, or is there some sort of box that I can buy elsewhere so that I can charge while at work, at least until I get a parking spot of my own with Type 2 charging in December?
Worst case scenario - if I have to charge at public stations which in theory can be 50-150 kW - what's the most efficient one? Some of the YouTube personalities I watched apparently only got out 70kW on a CCS, but never explained the reason why that was.

Any and all info or pointers in the direction of information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 
#5 ·
Hi,
That was my reasoning as well.
Smaller battery does mean shorter range, but it also means faster charging. I have 40km to work, so I need 80-90 km coverage daily. I assumed I'd be charging every 2 days, maybe 3 days in the months with nice weather.
The lack of range doesn't really bother me, as I take my long trips like a retiree, max 1-2 hours drives, 30 minutes rests, rinse, repeat. So its range is perfect for me, even for longer trips.
Can't wait to get it, feels like I'm about to get my first car all over again. :geek:
 
#6 ·
Can't advise re whether "granny" charger should have come with the car, as I have the 38. But I rather think it would have been provided. Someone here with a 28 should know. Post a qn in the Hyundai IONIQ Electric (EV) section if you don't get a reply in here. I think you should have the Type-2 cable, also the granny with whatever mains 240V plug you use on it.

Re charging rates, here's the Fastned chart + useful hints for the 28 & 38. But it's badly done, as 100% SOC is a rather larger quantity of energy in the 38 than it is in the 28, so ignore the 38 curve & info as irrelevant to you.

Product Rectangle Font Parallel Slope


Basically you're going to get a gradually increasing rate of charge up to about 77% SOC, then it drops off a cliff, so that's the point to unplug & drive off to the next Rapid if on a long trip. Just because the Rapid is 50 kW capable, doesn't mean it will always give you 50 kW! They are actually current limited, and when your battery is empty, the voltage is low, so LowVoltage x MaxCurrent is rather less than when the battery is much fuller, with HighVoltage x MaxCurrent going in in power terms. And again the batteries don't like low temperatures, they're happiest at the same sort of temperatures as we are, 20 to 40C or thereabouts. So when cold, the BMS (Battery Management System) will limit the current going in so as to minimise damage/stress on the battery. So that chart shows perhaps the best possible, after you've been driving nice & fast in summer & the battery is around 25-30C warm. Drive gently in order to maximise your range, and it won't heat up enough to overcome a cold start!

A couple of days ago, I got 32 kW at 20% SOC when charging a cold battery probably at 15C, but a later charge after having done 70 miles at 65 mph I got 41 kW at 20% SOC. So on a long trip it can be a good idea to do say 30 miles quickly to try to warm up the battery as you approach the next Rapid. And if there's another EV charging at the same time as you on a dual-plug Rapid, the Rapid may well split the power available, so you could get less than expected for that reason as well. So if you rock up to a set of 4 rapids, you'll usually find the first 4 EVs there will grab a different Rapid, and if you have to share, try to pick one with a Leaf or Zoes on it, not a Porsche or Audi !!! And definitely not one with an Ioniq 5 !!! :ROFLMAO:
 

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#7 ·
Thanks for the picture, it says a lot about the charging process.
Since I live in Sweden, having a temperature at 20-40°C is a scenario valid through May-September, rest of the year, it's lower than that.

Charging times may vary depending upon the number of ports in use, as well as the type of car being connected to it, noted.

Thanks for the tips, I'll probably book a visit to the Hyundai dealer (the Ioniq I'm getting was actually at a Nissan dealer), as I want to check other things as well - like whether the battery needs to be checked for that recall situation (car manufactured 2019-03), as well as whether the firmware is up to date.

Thanks again. Cheers
 
#8 ·
Update:
Got my Ioniq yesterday afternoon. They had charged it to 94%.

Drove back to work from the car dealer to sort some things out and then home, that was around 55km. This morning, about 40km to work and I had 44%.

Granny charger was included, so I left it during the day and got 100% SOC by the time I was done at work. My consumption today was around 13.1kW/100km.

For now, no issues with the car. I can hear some noise from the brakes when I push the brake and have noticed some rust on the discs, but I am confident that this is the result of the car standing and the regular brake not being used much (I've come to understand how sensitive the gas pedal is when I want to engage in regenerative braking without sliding forward in my seat 🤣).

The more I drove it, the happier I got with the purchase. Best car I've ever owned, and I simply cannot express the joy of having this particular car as my first EV.

I also checked the documentation of the car.

Apparently, it was manufactured 2019-03, but was taken into traffic 2020-06, as a leased car. Then the leasing contract was cancelled for some reason, the car went through the first service 2021-06-15 at 11000 km, and I got it with 12000 on the odometer. A BARGAIN is what this was. 😁

Best. Car. Ever.
 
#9 ·
Glad to hear that you're loving it. You should get the rust off those brake discs though before they gouge permanently, the trick is to shift into neutral before hitting the brake pedal, as that forces the mechanical brakes to do all the work and helps them to scrub clean. Once any braking noise has gone then you can resume to drive it normally again. Repeat if/when the noise comes back, it will be most prominent from the rear brakes as they do the least work. I'd say "Enjoy!" but you're already doing that... :)
 
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#10 ·
You have the 28 kWh battery. You do not have any battery recall issues with this whatsoever. Don't bother asking the dealer, they won't know or understand what's going on. Relax & enjoy it!

... but ... there's a chance you may suffer the 12V Vampire attack. Quite a few threads in here about this, some not-fully-understood problem can cause a sudden discharge of the 12V Battery. Happened to me on my end-of-2019 built 38er, woke up to find 8.3V in it!!! Just able to unlock the door & get in, that was all. Some here carry a Li-ion battery booster pack. I had one ready for this problem, connected it up & it didn't work. I think it didn't have enough power to both start the car AND recharge a really empty 12V lead-acid battery!

Took my battery out, gave it a de-sulphate cycle using Ctek MXS 5.0 charger, and it's recovered ok as far as I can tell.

Seems EVs don't look after the 12V very well, and Ioniq 38 does this less well than Konas can you believe this! I'm about to chase Hyundai UK about this as I now have the proof, and the info to improve this at least. A v knowledgeable person on SpeakEV.com suggests taking the 12V out from time to time (1/year? Not sure...) and giving it this desulphate cycle to recondition it.

Why did my 12V die? Dunno. Was it sulphated up & that triggered a sudden loss of 2 of the 6 cells? Rather suspicious that the voltage dropped so precisely to 4/6 x 12.6V! Did the desulphation recover 2 dodgy cells? Am not a chemist.

Whatever, I now don't trust the portable packs so have made my own solution, as 12V 21Ah AGM motorcycle battery strapped to the front of the 40 Ah Delkor, plus electronics & switches so my backup cannot get flattened, so is always available to be switched into use, and the big 12V can be totally isolated when doing this so cannot be a drain/load on my smaller backup. And it's arranged so the car never sees 0V, the switchover is transparent as far as that's concerned, so it's less drastic than taking the 12V out completelt than refitting a new 12V would be.

Not sure whether to make this as somehing that could be sold on eBay, or not. But depending on how reliant you are for your car to be available, you may want to have some emergency way to get 12V to it to power it up. Once powered up, the big traction battery comes on line & a beefy charger comes alive & recharges the 12V.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the heads up Andy, I've read through Your thread on this issue, very creative solution You've come up with.

Since reading up on the issue, I use only the fob to lock the car, as to eliminate the risk of there being some sort of bug that doesn't disable the power drain (I read somewhere that some people had their battery drained and suspected it was due to them locking the car via button on the door and not the fob).

No issues for now, and I've "cleaned" the discs from rust by doing as I was told here, Neutral + normal brake, the car is even better than before. 🤣
 
#12 ·
3 month update:
I've managed 10.000 km so far - that is, since October, as I'm commuter I got 80-85 km to work and back every day.

Back brakes got really rusty, I solved it by going for 100+ km/h and then braking really hard. Now I have to do something similar in reverse as well, as I can still hear "scratching" during breaking when reversing.
On a side note, winter has really come to Sweden. My range has dropped to 167km during these cold days. However, I am still okay with it as this is the real range, I just love the fact that the car doesn't lie regarding range.
I also managed to miscalculate my range on one particular occasion and ended up turtling for some 4 kilometres and gliding on a couple of downhills until I reached the 50kW charger. Don't remember that I ever felt that much suspense - and I've seen my child come into this world 10 months ago - I can say right away, staring at that 1% with A/C off, radio off, everything off, it's 0°C outside, 4AM on a Saturday morning, and I'm praying to every God I can come up with to reach the charger - only once the charging process started did I notice how shaky my hands and my jaw were. I've since then learned my lesson, as well as received access to my own charging spot on the parking lot.

In summary, I can say that I am very glad that the Ioniq 28kWh is my first EV, and it really feels like the perfect car to "dip the toes" in the world of EV ownership. There are no real remarks to this car, apart from perhaps its size in the back, but some sacrifices had to be made to reach the ultimate compromise between not carrying too big of a battery while still maintaining a decent range and superb aerodynamics, all so that the price could be as competitive as possible.

I know the definition of the sweet spot as I've always been like that, don't need the best, just need the biggest "bounce for the ounce"; and it definitely feels like I've hit the jackpot with this car. If there's any room for it in the future, the optimal scenario would be to keep this one and get a Ioniq 5 as our main car and keep this one for the school runs for my spouse.

I would also like to thank You all for the words of encouragement, explanations and instructions, as You've really helped bolster my confidence in acquiring the Ioniq being the right decision. I sure feel like a winner every time I pass a gas station and the diesel price is >20 SEK/litre. 🤣 Now I'm working on convincing my other colleagues that the Ioniq is the way to go 👌
 
#13 ·
20 SEK is £1.62 today - similar to K prices, Diesel's about £1.49/litre, I think e gges are trying t keep it under the psychological barrier of 1.50!
Great to hear you're enjoying the Ioniq. I love mine! H should produce an update, same 38 kWh car with 50 kWh and charging as fast as the 28 would blow away just about everything else around in that size range. ID.3 with 58 kWh battery is only marginally better range, about 20-30 miles more, and the entry level one with 45 kWh has a worse range I believe!
Even Ioniq 5 is an electron-guzzler in comparison, like all the larger EVs are (except Model 3, and new Merc & Lightyear but I can't afford those!).
 
#14 ·
After thoroughly enjoying the experience with my 28kWh Ioniq, I find it hard to even consider getting anything else that doesn't charge as fast as it does - and in all honesty, I can't begin to understand why Hyundai went with a slower charging rate with the 38.3 kWh battery. Most of the cars I've tried to compare to my Ioniq can't even compare:

Ioniq (mine) has 28kWh battery, can charge 70kW. The "rate of charge to battery size" ratio is then 2,5 exactly.
Ioniq (Yours) has 38.3 kWh battery, can charge at 44kW. Abovementioned ratio is 1,16.
Ioniq 5 has a 72,6 kWh battery, can charge at 220kW. Same ratio is then 3,03!

I just can't get over the fact that Hyundai didn't go for at the very least 70kW on 38kWh version as well. I was expecting it to be at 100kW, so that You get exactly what You got on my Ioniq 28kWh, but with even more range.
 
#15 ·
Yup, that slower on the 38 charging is a real downer for many! But it's not a issue for me, as I got the car to do 160 mile trips in winter non-stop, which it does perfectly. And as I'm retired, time pressure doesn't exist, so happy to accept the slower charging rate on the few occasions I have to use a Rapid (holidays mainly). We're still at the stage where EVers have to be aware of all the idiosyncrasies of the different EVs out there! Much like the early days of petrol cars I suspect, when gear lever & pedal arrangements varied, ignition systems also, you name it!
 
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