[linhkute123]

TLDR: Opening the charge door with the app starts it draining the 12V battery. Doing a status update with the app stops the drain.


After a few Hyundai Assist (AA) call outs now, I've fitted a BM2. All looked pretty normal for a while until I looked at yesterday's data:

View attachment 37764
2am - left friends new years party but walked home. This is just unlocking/locking something in the car.
11-13 - picked up car and drove short way home
16:25 - Remotely opened charge port and plugging in to our home charger for scheduled overnight charge.

Looks like something is draining the 12V from then onwards with the car battling to recharge it every hour?

Todays data:
View attachment 37765
0:30 - Scheduled charge started
4:07 - Scheduled charged stopped (at 90%)
9:11 - Remote unlocked, removed the charging cable, closed the charging door (with the close button in it) and remote locked the car.

So the drain/charge cycle has continued even after unplugging the car.

Whilst writing this I've done a remote status update (at 16:31) and the car has now gone back to a steady 12.5V so it looks like that may break this cycle.

Any ideas?
Can someone else with a BM2 reproduce this scenario?

There is a bug in the software that now keeps some ECU's awake - apparently they can pull around 200-300 Watts.

 

[djgras]

Same problem with voice command to open / close the charging port door ?

 

[JavOLeeN]

Same problem with voice command to open / close the charging port door ?

0:58 -> the best part
Opening the trunk with discharged 12V battery

 

[Collers]

Just to confirm how to stop the 12V drain. A remote status update on the app has worked for me every time. That is:

• open the BlueLink app (mines on iPhone)
• go to the Status page
• hit the update button (top right next to the bell for notifications)
• wait for it to come back with ‘Vehicle status check complete’

Luckily (!?) there is a bug in the app which means it shows range in km even when configured to show miles. A refresh fixes this so I do it pretty often.
Must have unknowingly stopped the drain loads of times for me.

 

[JavOLeeN]

Just to confirm how to stop the 12V drain. A remote status update on the app has worked for me every time. That is:

• open the BlueLink app (mines on iPhone)
• go to the Status page
• hit the update button (top right next to the bell for notifications)
• wait for it to come back with ‘Vehicle status check complete’

Luckily (!?) there is a bug in the app which means it shows range in km even when configured to show miles. A refresh fixes this so I do it pretty often.
Must have unknowingly stopped the drain loads of times for me.

The question is: Hyundai knows that?

 

[djgras]

Is there a voice command to call the Hyundai software support ?

 

[Zuinige Rijder]

Is there a voice command to call the Hyundai software support ?

There is an emergency button 🚖🛂📣

In the bluelink App there is under "More..." -> "Customer Support" an email address bluelink@hyundai-europe.com. Because the battery drain is related to bluelink......

 

[GregF]

Same problem with voice command to open / close the charging port door ?

Hi djgras. Your video was helpful and gave me an idea. My Bluelink App was intermittently showing the red 12V Battery warning. It was showing today. I opened the charge door with the button and inspected inside closely. The cap over the DC connection is held on with a piece of plastic that was not a perfect fit and pushed outwards onto the inside of the door holding it a bit open. I very carefully pressed the plastic in the shaped curve so it no longer pressed the door out. Low and behold the red 12v Battery warning on the Bluelink App disappeared. Would be interesting if others checked this

 

[MIkeS]

Yes. My car has all three. My understanding was the BMS update was to fix an issue with not starting after a fast charge. There was a hope (by the dealership) that it would fix the non-starting issues I was seeing too.

Mine has all 3 updates as well and definitely suffered the loading problem.

 

[dave.cutts]

Interesting to review some data from my battery monitor today.
1 charge started 0030
2 not sure car was probably charging or perhaps had reached its target charge.
3 charge stopped 0430
3+ The hunps - Unknown looks like it was constantly trying to do something (close charger port maybe)
4 Unplugged charging lead, close charger port by pushing the button inside flap.

 

[henrik28]

0:58 -> the best part
Opening the trunk with discharged 12V battery

I'm afraid that someone misunderstood why I put a laughing emoji on this comment from @JavOLeeN , so I have to explain it;

In the video at 0:58 she actually says "If the charger door will not open due to 12V battery discharge, you can open it manually."
Then she continues "Open the liftgate ..." and the trunk motors suddenly get power from the discharged battery!

 

[GregF]

Hi djgras. Your video was helpful and gave me an idea. My Bluelink App was intermittently showing the red 12V Battery warning. It was showing today. I opened the charge door with the button and inspected inside closely. The cap over the DC connection is held on with a piece of plastic that was not a perfect fit and pushed outwards onto the inside of the door holding it a bit open. I very carefully pressed the plastic in the shaped curve so it no longer pressed the door out. Low and behold the red 12v Battery warning on the Bluelink App disappeared. Would be interesting if others checked this

Update - problem persists. I have not opened the charge door at all. Driven only a few miles and shuffled car on the drive. But after a couple of days the Red Battery Warning has reappeared on Bluelink. So the DC cover attachment is NOT the cause of the intermittent Battery Warning Alert

 

[Lin19687]

Update - problem persists. I have not opened the charge door at all. Driven only a few miles and shuffled car on the drive. But after a couple of days the Red Battery Warning has reappeared on Bluelink. So the DC cover attachment is NOT the cause of the intermittent Battery Warning Alert

Is there a 12v battery warning on the dash of the car?
Try this..... Drive the car so 12v battery is charged up.
Go into settings on bluelink app and turn it completely off... Easy on Android, or just uninstall it.
Don't open it again and see if the warning dash light comes on...not on the app

 

[MIkeS]

Is there a 12v battery warning on the dash of the car?
Try this..... Drive the car so 12v battery is charged up.
Go into settings on bluelink app and turn it completely off... Easy on Android, or just uninstall it.
Don't open it again and see if the warning dash light comes on...not on the app

Not sure if there is a 12v battery warning on the dash. No idea how long you would need to drive the car for the 12v to be fully charged. Best thing to do is to fit a BM2 and do not use the app at all atm.

 

[Collers]

Have you reported this issue to Hyundai? I have sent the following to Hyundai UK:

Don’t know if you’ve had better luck but all I got back was:
“All Hyundai dealerships are our representatives to investigate and repair any issues with the Hyundai vehicles, they are able to liaise directly with our technical team to carry out any repairs or fixes on customers vehicles.”

So, looks like any/all issues have to go through dealerships.

My dealership has also confirmed there is no option to contact Hyundai Technical directly.

 

[HeshNeedsCandy]

TLDR: Opening the charge door with the app starts it draining the 12V battery. Doing a status update with the app stops the drain.


After a few Hyundai Assist (AA) call outs now, I've fitted a BM2. All looked pretty normal for a while until I looked at yesterday's data:

View attachment 37764
2am - left friends new years party but walked home. This is just unlocking/locking something in the car.
11-13 - picked up car and drove short way home
16:25 - Remotely opened charge port and plugging in to our home charger for scheduled overnight charge.

Looks like something is draining the 12V from then onwards with the car battling to recharge it every hour?

Todays data:
View attachment 37765
0:30 - Scheduled charge started
4:07 - Scheduled charged stopped (at 90%)
9:11 - Remote unlocked, removed the charging cable, closed the charging door (with the close button in it) and remote locked the car.

So the drain/charge cycle has continued even after unplugging the car.

Whilst writing this I've done a remote status update (at 16:31) and the car has now gone back to a steady 12.5V so it looks like that may break this cycle.

Any ideas?
Can someone else with a BM2 reproduce this scenario?

Not an EE but this looks like voltage output of the 12v battery charger circuit. The maximum value of any interval point is approximately ~14.4v which is consistent with 12v battery chargers. If this is the case, as far as I understand it, the 12v battery state of charge cannot be determined without further data.
Follow-up thoughts include:
Perhaps with Amp/Current data overlapping we could get the desired outcome?
Could you provide detail on the leads of the BM2... like where exactly is it probing the car for voltage and ground?

 

[Restyler]

...Could you provide detail on the leads of the BM2... like where exactly is it probing the car for voltage and ground?

Info here - Fitting a BM2 Battery Monitor Device to the I5

 

[Lin19687]

I have had several problems with my 2019 Ioniq plug in hybrid. I even asked them to take the lease back because it almost got me hit because the battery can not recharge itself during extreme hot or cold days. I was driving on a long road trip and the car was loaded with personal items clothes etc. I had put a roof bag with dog food and my beach chair on roof.
the car even in sport mode could not sustain a battery charge of more than 1 white line with the radio, headlights and AC running.
I hadn’t had this issue before so was driving and paying attention to the traffic on 95 south when all of a sudden my car went from going 82 miles and hour to 60 and my foot was completely on the gas. Then it dropped me to 50 because I turned on the hazards I was on a highway with 75 speed limit. People were flying past and around me. Large semis and hundreds of cars.

I had to turn off AC and it was 98 degrees out turn off head lights and turned off radio.
I had to drive no more than 60 for the remainer of my 17 hr trip no lihhts dimming dash board to 1 lumen and turn off headlights ever so often at night when roads were empty so I could turn on AC.

again no AC and 98.

Hyundai response “we can’t replicate your problem so it must not exist and we can’t fix it or take back the car it’s fine.
Car would be dead in extreme cold when it wasn’t driven for more than 5 days and not plugged in.

I just drove again NJ to FL and the extreme low temps also drained the battery and I could not drive any faster than 70 and had one episode going up a incline in North Carolina where car went from doing 70 to 40.

the batteries are used for too many things the company is constantly monitoring your speed driving etc and the batteries are taking a beating and perform poorly.

the company has done nothing to fix my issue and they are going to have a huge lawsuit on their hands when someone is crushed by a tractor trailer on a highway because their car suddenly decelerates and the driver can’t do anything to speed up.

The car spent 5 days at a dealership another 3 days another time and I have complained at least 10 times. They replaced just the small battery which has fixed nothing.

I think it’s a big and a design flaw. The cars are only meeting these efficiency and mileage and battery levels when car is empty and only one person driving. It can’t handle the 5 person capacity it boasts. That would be over 900 pounds and it was just me and clothes and shoes. I’m 130 I did not pack 770 lbs of clothes. Also with the same exact trip and same amount of packed items in car I made it in April and the car and battery were ok. Nothing stellar to report but at least I wasn’t almost killed. So it’s not the trip or the weight of items it’s that and using accessories like AC and heated seats and heat combined with batteries not doing well in extreme temps.

has anyone had a similar issue? Dealership said I’d have to leave my car for at least 30 days for them to figure it out. What? 30 days and I have to find other transportation while it gets worked on.

I don’t use app for anything except remote start and remote car door locking and opening.

how do I “reset” the app to stop the drain?

Stop it in your settings or delete from your phone.... Pretty simple

 

[MIkeS]

Don’t know if you’ve had better luck but all I got back was:
“All Hyundai dealerships are our representatives to investigate and repair any issues with the Hyundai vehicles, they are able to liaise directly with our technical team to carry out any repairs or fixes on customers vehicles.”

So, looks like any/all issues have to go through dealerships.

My dealership has also confirmed there is no option to contact Hyundai Technical directly.

Not had a reply yet. But a different question about 0 regen setting elicited this response -
Thank you for your email. We have forwarded your query onto our technical department. Once we have any correspondence from them, we will be in touch to advise.

So that seems to be a fairly direct way to contact Hyundai Tech…..

 

[MIkeS]

Don’t know if you’ve had better luck but all I got back was:
“All Hyundai dealerships are our representatives to investigate and repair any issues with the Hyundai vehicles, they are able to liaise directly with our technical team to carry out any repairs or fixes on customers vehicles.”

So, looks like any/all issues have to go through dealerships.

My dealership has also confirmed there is no option to contact Hyundai Technical directly.

Are you going to demo the fault to the dealer?