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The whiter the light the more energy is needed. I think LED is the exception to the rule, but for incandescent I have heard to get closer to white the bulb needs to burn more energy and hotter which shortens its life span.
Actually, the opposite is true for incandescent lights about their efficiency. The higher the temperature of the filament, the higher portion of the energy is radiated as visible light, and lower in the invisible infrared spectrum. That is why halogen lights are more efficient than traditional incandescent. Of course the filament life degrades with higher temperatures. That’s why halogen filaments are encased in pressurized quartz capsules filled with inert gas, to reduce their evaporation, as compared to partial vacuum of traditional bulbs.
LED lights are different and this rule doesn’t apply, as the light is emitted due to quantum effects. They are the most efficient light sources by far.
 
Thank you for providing the parts required for this swap. Is it necessary to modify the connection of the OEM bulb connector? There is not a lot of room in the headlight housing but having a extended cover I would have thought would provide the extra room to fit everything.
 
Thank you for providing the parts required for this swap. Is it necessary to modify the connection of the OEM bulb connector? There is not a lot of room in the headlight housing but having a extended cover I would have thought would provide the extra room to fit everything.
You definitely have to modify the stock bulb connector. However, I have found a better way than what I did and it is reversible. Will post the process tonight.
 
Thank you for providing the parts required for this swap. Is it necessary to modify the connection of the OEM bulb connector? There is not a lot of room in the headlight housing but having a extended cover I would have thought would provide the extra room to fit everything.
This is the procedure to remove the connectors from the stock plastic base, so you don't have to cut and make a new connection.

The plastic base has plastic tab/knob to hold the connector in place. You have to ply the connector while pushing it till it come out of the plastic base.

In this photo you can see the tab/knob in the plastic base that hold the connector in place.
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you will need a flat head screwdriver for plying and another Philip or hex or Allen key to push the connector out of the plastic base.
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It might be harder if you have to do in on your car under the hood. If it is too hard then just cut it and make a new connection.

In case you wanna revert back to halogen, just put the connection back into the plastic base. It will snap back in and you are at square one.
 

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OMG is there a removal/install tool that to get the inner portion removed and installed back? I got the dust cover on but I cant get the inner portion with the headlight bulb out. There's almost no room for my hand to reach inside for a good enough grip. Why did Hyundai have to make it so difficult, its so dumb.

If there was a removal/install tool that you can slip on to have more grip to turn that would make it easy, right now I can feel one side of the flap but I barely can get my finger on the opposite end flap to start turning.
 
Yes it's very tight and you can't see what you are doing. I found that applying some heat, with a hair dryer, made it much easier to rotate and remove that plastic base. Good luck.
 
Yes it's very tight and you can't see what you are doing. I found that applying some heat, with a hair dryer, made it much easier to rotate and remove that plastic base. Good luck.
There's no room for me to get a hair dryer inside as well considering I cannot get my hand in, but I guess I have to try to point it inward at an angle and hope it blows in and slowly heats up?
 
There's no room for me to get a hair dryer inside as well considering I cannot get my hand in, but I guess I have to try to point it inward at an angle and hope it blows in and slowly heats up?
Correct. I pointed the hair dryer towards the opening, got the area warmed up, and then used two fingers to rotate bulb holder. Or use a homemade tool like @Cha suggests - that's probably a better idea. Either way, it's ridiculously tight quarters to work in. Good luck.
 
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Do you have a link on what type of led you installed on your Ioniq, I have a 2019 model and woulod like to convert it also to an led low beam headlamp, thank you
 
Here are some pics of my install for passenger side. Removal of the OEM bulb holder is a must. Getting the LED into socket with after market holder is a challenge. Even with groves the LED bulb comes loose very easily. On the passenger side the bulb is not secured on the holder and there is free play as I can touch the heat sink and move it around. It doesn't seem like it will fall out however since the build holder itself is secure it's just how the bulb sits in the holder that is the issue. Getting dust cap back on requires alot of force pushing backwards and twisting as heatsink does touch the back of the cover of the dust cap. I guess it might be a good things as extra pressure to keep the bulb from moving around. I will do drivers side next but there is even less room to work on the drivers side.
 

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I used Katana LED's. I am happy with them so far (only installed 3 weeks ago). I share @ngolf's comments about the bulb being somewhat loose in the after market bulb holder. But that is not the bulb's fault, it is the after market holder that does not provide a good clamping for the bulb. Anyhow, the link for the Katana LED's is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...S4JZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=ioniqforumconvert-20. I picked these because they are the top rated low budget (less than $50) bulb for projector-style headlights as reviewed here https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/projectors.html.

Paul
 
Both sides done now

The driver's side was a pain to do as the stock bulb holder was really tight. I used a cut out of the bottom of an old plastic BBQ brush handle which was big enough to almost cover the stock bracket and give me leverage to twist. Doing so by hand was impossible for me and both my hands are banged up just for trying. I used some glue to hold the H7 bracket onto the aftermarket holder. By installing just the bracket and adapter first then carefully side the LED bulb in I was able to install everything without the bulb popping loose. I didn't want an LED with external driver as that would mean having to drill holes in dust cover. I may swap to HID later on but I have noticed power draw has gone down using LEDs.
 
Adaptor

LEDs are definitely not possible without modifications to the bulb housing as that holds the female sockets for the bulb to plug into, also it serves as the bulb holder, so without it, the bulb won't stay in place. Not the best design possible. If you have some design knowledge and a 3D printer you can make LEDs work.
I found an LED adaptor for the Ioniq, I have never tried this yet, so if anyone wants a project.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-H7-L...3590610?fits=Make:Hyundai&hash=item4b41080052:g:vpsAAOSwHBda1rnW&frcectupt=true
 
I changed my low beams on my 2017 BEV SE w/CCP and took some quick pictures.
I was wondering why you left "low hanging fruit" - side marker bulb (194) unchanged. I looks like there is small plug next to the low beam cover. It is most likely designed to hold the bulb and contain integrated circuit to make connection inside the light when secured. Anyone can confirm my guesses on changing it.
 
Correct. I pointed the hair dryer towards the opening, got the area warmed up, and then used two fingers to rotate bulb holder. Or use a homemade tool like @Cha suggests - that's probably a better idea. Either way, it's ridiculously tight quarters to work in. Good luck.
Very nice. Today was close to 30 degrees Celsius outside so left the Ioniq baking in the sun with the hood open so it could shine on the headlight. This definitely helped as I managed to lock it in place finally with my bare fingers, drivers side. Heat is definitely needed as originally stated by OP.
 
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