[Thorpey]

You would think they would develop a transformer to step down the 800V to 12V and eliminate the 12V battery completely.

The 800v is completely disconnected to prevent battery drain which used to happen on early tesla's. This is just bad engineering from Hyundai, if they are doing an update they need to reconnect the 800v battery to keep the 12v battery topped up, you can't even listen to the radio for mare than 2 minutes without the full system enabled so how do they think an OTA update would consume less power!

 

[unladenswallow]

You would think they would develop a transformer to step down the 800V to 12V and eliminate the 12V battery completely.

It's probably a matter of vampire current draw. It's difficult to engineer a step-down converter with that voltage ratio (800:12) that can both supply the demand when the car is being driven and all the 12V stuff is drawing maximum current, and that also has high efficiency (so that it doesn't also drain the high voltage battery significantly) when the car is turned off and drawing a fraction of that maximum current, just enough to respond to the key fob and Bluelink. It's easier to use a 12V battery to power stuff when the car is off, and to recharge it as necessary. I think the issues are that (a) there are some fault conditions that cause the 12V battery drain to be much higher than it should be (e.g. charging door opened via BlueLink), and (b) they haven't got the algorithm that checks the battery voltage and tops up the charge right.

 

[Restyler]

I've received 3 updates on my P45, it was enabled in January and I have had 1 update in Feb and 2 in March. It's obvious when it happens as you have to agree to new terms and conditions along with a new privacy statement, the first time it reset some settings as well. No other fault as it works perfectly until an update, I only had the non starting issue once previously before i had the firmware updated so I know it isn't the battery.

Same Here - Last one was on Thursday evening (10th March) - I was already driving when the terms & conditions flashed up so I just dismissed them, however when I came to do my regular cabin pre-heat yesterday morning it wouldn't connect until I got back in the car & agreed to the new update.
I'm not sure about it being a proper OTA though, as I think its getting the update via the bluelink app.
No proof either way - BUT I've NEVER done ANY of the USB updates, the last of which I believe was supposed to have prepared the way for OTA updating.

Maybe of interest that I offered this as a possible answer to someone who's scheduled charging also failed this week

 

[MIkeS]

I've received 3 updates on my P45, it was enabled in January and I have had 1 update in Feb and 2 in March. It's obvious when it happens as you have to agree to new terms and conditions along with a new privacy statement, the first time it reset some settings as well. No other fault as it works perfectly until an update, I only had the non starting issue once previously before i had the firmware updated so I know it isn't the battery.

I think you are referring to the Bluelink message to agree to new T&Cs. There was a problem with BL resetting the profiles that should be fixed now. It is not the car’s SW being updated. When we finally get an OTA update for the car’s SW you should see some info on the screen. See -

 

[HandyAndy]

You would think they would develop a transformer to step down the 800V to 12V and eliminate the 12V battery completely.

Problem is, the car must be able to operate hazard flashers in an emergency, when the 800V may well be completely isolated for safety reasons. As it always is when the car's off & idle. So you need a 12V or 24V or something to power the computer up, run the key-fob detection & alarms etc, and you can't power that lot from the 800V because the contactors aren't pulled in to connect up the 800V fully. And the contactors themselves take a measurable current to pull them in, being spring-loaded to auto-disconnect in case of power-failure, so they'd be draining the 800V in vampire mode if kept on permanently.

 

[Mr. G]

So I had the dreaded dead 12V battery today. I went past my Ioniq to go out via the garage to check the mail mid day today and knew something was up because the single red strip of light underneath the brake lights/Ioniq 5 lettering was lit. I was like hmm, that seems weird and unusual. Tried to open the car door and no response, so as I suspected, dead 12V. Needed to use the mechanical key to open the door, pop the hood, and get the 12V jump start battery from the glove box. Connected the 12V jump starter to the battery and started hearing some clicking noises, I suspect I could have disconnected the jump start battery then but I went ahead and turned on the car first. Oh, and the alarm started honking at me as soon as the 12V was live, not sure if closing the driver's door would have prevented it but just be aware so you don't startle yourself.

Not entirely sure what caused it to go dead. I realized I left the lights on (not in auto like normal) as it was raining but bright enough for auto lights not to be on yesterday when I drove it. I assume those turn themselves off though like on most modern cars. Other than that, I have a hardwired dash cam but it has a low voltage cutoff switch and an OBD dongle that does stay on even when car is off. Would love to know why the 12V died but not sure I'll ever know.

One more thing, I wasn't getting any response from the lock/unlock button on the passenger side door handle this evening, but the driver's side was fine. I suspected it might need a reset, so I disconnected the negative terminal on the 12V battery when i got home, reconnected it and worked like a charm afterwards.

Any ideas what drained my 12V battery? Anyone else had similar issues with the lock/unlock button after a dead 12V?

Thanks for the insights here.
I'm interested in that 12v jumpstart battery. Any chance you can post a product link?

Many thanks!

 

[jediobiwan]

Thanks for the insights here.
I'm interested in that 12v jumpstart battery. Any chance you can post a product link?

Many thanks!

I have this one or similar, likely overpowered for the Ioniq 5 but I had it from my ICE SUV days. There are a billion models of these, they also serve as a battery bank in an emergency (not that I don’t have 12 other of those because I love USB battery banks, but this one is alway always in the car at least.

Just remember to check the charge level every few months. Mine went from 96% to 62% when I jumped my Ioniq 5 likely because I left it plugged to the battery for so long.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[scredly]

I found these discussions re: Using LiFePO4 battery as car battery:

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/137249/using-lifepo4-battery-as-car-battery

A lithium-ion upgrade for your car, but not the one you’re expecting

 

[xenopi]

I found these discussions re: Using LiFePO4 battery as car battery:

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/137249/using-lifepo4-battery-as-car-battery

A lithium-ion upgrade for your car, but not the one you’re expecting

All I can say is, mine is awesome, and I would/will do it again. But to each his own. <shrug>

 

[lslick23]

So what size battery do we have in our I5’s and is it a 40amp? I would check myself but I’m out of town lol

 

[Restyler]

60Ah

 

[Bigfeets]

What lesson for me? (Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ltd AWD 2022MY bought new in Feb 2022 in US).
I use Bluelink to check vehicle status occasionally and log in and out of the phone app. I store my key fobs about 40 feet from the garaged I5, but inside a wood frame house. I also notice the dash blue light (apparent in US models) blinking occasionally when the I5 is off and locked. I notice small drops (~1%) in high voltage battery SOC when the car sits in the garage for a couple of days, suggesting small power drains. It's been said that the 12v battery status line in the Bluelink phone app is not accurate/reliable and that using an external 12v battery charger routinely is unnecessary.
Questions that arise:
Does the Bluelink cause a draw on the 12v battery continue even when the phone app is logged out? Do key fobs draw 12v power when within distance range of an "off" I5? How is the high voltage battery "isolated" when the car is off but the dash light indicating 12v battery recharge is blinking? If 12v battery is charged when I5 is "on", utility mode, or "off" but being occasionally charged (as indicated by the blinking dash light), wouldn't trickle charge or battery monitoring be unnecessary (e.g. problems of 12v draining to dead have been remedied in this model)? What threshold triggers the Bluelink battery status light to go into failure of false positive (voltage drop, false negative)?

 

[Fan of EV]

What lesson for me? (Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ltd AWD 2022MY bought new in Feb 2022 in US).
I use Bluelink to check vehicle status occasionally and log in and out of the phone app. I store my key fobs about 40 feet from the garaged I5, but inside a wood frame house. I also notice the dash blue light (apparent in US models) blinking occasionally when the I5 is off and locked. I notice small drops (~1%) in high voltage battery SOC when the car sits in the garage for a couple of days, suggesting small power drains. It's been said that the 12v battery status line in the Bluelink phone app is not accurate/reliable and that using an external 12v battery charger routinely is unnecessary.
Questions that arise:
Does the Bluelink cause a draw on the 12v battery continue even when the phone app is logged out? Do key fobs draw 12v power when within distance range of an "off" I5? How is the high voltage battery "isolated" when the car is off but the dash light indicating 12v battery recharge is blinking? If 12v battery is charged when I5 is "on", utility mode, or "off" but being occasionally charged (as indicated by the blinking dash light), wouldn't trickle charge or battery monitoring be unnecessary (e.g. problems of 12v draining to dead have been remedied in this model)? What threshold triggers the Bluelink battery status light to go into failure of false positive (voltage drop, false negative)?
View attachment 41244

The Bluelink app works when outside of Bluetooth range of the car so it must be using a data connection. There is no provision that I have seen for having the car connect to your home WiFi (WLAN for you non-US people). So the car must be using a cellular/mobile connection for its data and that means that something in the car must be awake and powered on regardless of what you are doing on your phone. So just having the Bluelink app on your phone open seems to me to be an unlikely cause of drain on the 12v battery.

That said, there have been aspersions cast that activating some car functions via the Bluelink app can cause the car to drain the 12v battery. If true, then that can only point to software issues in the car itself that Hyundai should address.

According to the manual, the amber light on the top center of the dash is a warning light. It indicates that even though the car is off the high voltage system is active. As far as I could tell reading the manual, this only happens when the car decides to charge the 12v battery. This light warns a mechanic or technician that the orange cables and other components in the high voltage system are energized even though the car is off. That light is never illuminated when the car is on because it is expected that there is high voltage power present when the car is on.

 

[Bigfeets]

The Bluelink app works when outside of Bluetooth range of the car so it must be using a data connection. There is no provision that I have seen for having the car connect to your home WiFi (WLAN for you non-US people). So the car must be using a cellular/mobile connection for its data and that means that something in the car must be awake and powered on regardless of what you are doing on your phone. So just having the Bluelink app on your phone open seems to me to be an unlikely cause of drain on the 12v battery.

That said, there have been aspersions cast that activating some car functions via the Bluelink app can cause the car to drain the 12v battery. If true, then that can only point to software issues in the car itself that Hyundai should address.

According to the manual, the amber light on the top center of the dash is a warning light. It indicates that even though the car is off the high voltage system is active. As far as I could tell reading the manual, this only happens when the car decides to charge the 12v battery. This light warns a mechanic or technician that the orange cables and other components in the high voltage system are energized even though the car is off. That light is never illuminated when the car is on because it is expected that there is high voltage power present when the car is on.

I vaguely remember the dash light was added to 2022MY US Ioniq 5, after 12v battery issues were found in 2021MY in Europe. Quality of OEM battery aside, is it reasonable to say that 12v battery issues with US deliveries are not yet confirmed (i.e. 2021MY battery issues have been resolved in 2022MY)?

(I'm just confused about how diligent I ought to be about monitoring the status of the 12v battery, given the little evidence regarding 2022MY US Ioniq 5.)

 

[Fan of EV]

I vaguely remember the dash light was added to 2022MY US Ioniq 5, after 12v battery issues were found in 2021MY in Europe. Quality of OEM battery aside, is it reasonable to say that 12v battery issues with US deliveries are not yet confirmed (i.e. 2021MY battery issues have been resolved in 2022MY)?
View attachment 41250
(I'm just confused about how diligent I ought to be about monitoring the status of the 12v battery, given the little evidence regarding 2022MY US Ioniq 5.)

Without doing a search and only relying on memory, the 12v battery issues I recall reading about seemed to be in Europe or the UK. And they seem to have been in the first month or two of the initial deliveries.

Maybe it has been fixed and was fixed prior to the first US deliveries.

 

[TrueNorth]

Dave from the Out of Spec YouTube channel recently had his Ioniq 5 12v battery die.

He did leave a Bluetooth OBDII dongle plugged in which could have contributed.

 

[MIkeS]

I notice small drops (~1%) in high voltage battery SOC when the car sits in the garage for a couple of days, suggesting small power drains.

If 12v battery is charged when I5 is "on", utility mode, or "off" but being occasionally charged (as indicated by the blinking dash light), wouldn't trickle charge or battery monitoring be unnecessary (e.g. problems of 12v draining to dead have been remedied in this model)? What threshold triggers the Bluelink battery status light to go into failure of false positive (voltage drop, false negative)?
View attachment 41244

The changes in SOC are more likely to be associated with temp changes.

Battery trickle charging is not necessary unless there is a defect on the car or the car systems have been used a lot without being in on or utility mode. This inc using things like the tailgate.

Battery monitoring, like with a BM2, is not necessary. However, it is extremely useful if there is a problem.

 

[MIkeS]

That said, there have been aspersions cast that activating some car functions via the Bluelink app can cause the car to drain the 12v battery. If true, then that can only point to software issues in the car itself that Hyundai should address.

There was an identified fault such that if you opened the charge port with the app it would cause a persistent 8-9 amp load on the 12v battery (supposedly fixed in UK with an update to the app). This would ultimately drain the battery. In addition, there has been a fault with the charge port assembly when activation of the port my any means caused a similar drain (if suffered then fixed with a new assembly).

Other recorded 12v problems appear to have been caused my misuse or/and defective 12v batteries.

 

[Trailblazer]

I would like to modify the BM2 and attach a 12V power plug, and plug it in inside the car. Would that give me the same results?

Amazon.com

 

[PharAstro]

I would like to modify the BM2 and attach a 12V power plug, and plug it in inside the car. Would that give me the same results?

Amazon.com

The 12v outlets in the car are not on all the time.