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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With many stuck at home, and the cars not seeing any miles for multiple months, I have a few Ioniq-specific (2019 base) questions, which I'll ask since I've found conflicting info.

  1. Does the traction pack charge the 12V battery if not plugged in?
  2. If answer to #1 is No, should I mess around with a trickle charger, or just turn the vehicle on for a few hours so it can change the battery (if it lets me)?
  3. Is there really no way of limiting the SoC limit to something less than 100% on the base model? I've unplugged the car at 70%, but charging to 100% is going to degrade many batteries (even when the true SoC is 90%), especially for lease holders, who may not care about degradation.
  4. Anything else I should be concerned about?
 

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With many stuck at home, and the cars not seeing any miles for multiple months, I have a few Ioniq-specific questions, which I'll ask since I've found conflicting info.

  1. Does the traction pack charge the 12V battery if not plugged in?
  2. If answer to #1 is No, should I mess around with a trickle charger, or just turn the vehicle on for a few hours so it can change the battery (if it lets me)?
  3. Is there really no way of limiting the SoC limit to something less than 100% on the base model? I've unplugged the car at 80%, but this is going to degrade many batteries, especially for lease holders, who may not care.
  4. Anything else I should be concerned about?
The 12 volt battery does charge when driving car.
It also charge when charging High Voltage battery.
The HV battery does discharge on hot days due to cooling of battery.
Just put battery HV on charge if it drops to much.
On rapid charger you stop at 80% due to the last 20% takes over 1 hour due to need to slow charge to stop damage to battery. If you stop at 80% more people can use charger. (20% to 80% around 50 mins at 43 kwh charger)
The battery on ioniq is larger than 38.3 Kwh but only 38.3k used.
So 100% charge is not full , this way battery and range stays the same over car battery life.
Battery life and charge is controlled by battery's software.
Hope this helps.
 

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Yes, mess around with a trickle charger if you want to have long 12 volt battery life. Smart trickle charger is best.
 

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I've got a cheap plug in voltmeter which I leave in one of the power sockets, useful to keep a eye on the 12v. Mine is showing 14.5 ish most of the time.
 

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14.5v is the charging voltage most likely when the car is in the ready state. What does the voltage say when in accessory mode. One push of start button foot not on the brake?
 

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With many stuck at home, and the cars not seeing any miles for multiple months, I have a few Ioniq-specific (2019 base) questions, which I'll ask since I've found conflicting info.

  1. Does the traction pack charge the 12V battery if not plugged in?
  2. If answer to #1 is No, should I mess around with a trickle charger, or just turn the vehicle on for a few hours so it can change the battery (if it lets me)?
  3. Is there really no way of limiting the SoC limit to something less than 100% on the base model? I've unplugged the car at 70%, but charging to 100% is going to degrade many batteries (even when the true SoC is 90%), especially for lease holders, who may not care about degradation.
  4. Anything else I should be concerned about?
There is indeed a function called Aux. Battery Saver+ which will occasionally charge the 12V battery from the traction battery when the car is not plugged in. That can be turned off in the menus, though. So make sure that it's turned on unless you want to monitor and maintain the battery manually.

The manual recommends charging the car every three months if it's not going to be used for a long time.
31979
 

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14.5v is the charging voltage most likely when the car is in the ready state. What does the voltage say when in accessory mode. One push of start button foot not on the brake?
Good point, just tried it. 11.8v.
 

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Ooh that sounds very low mines been sitting at 12.2/12.3. I did put it in ready mode for an hour one day it was about 13v when I turned it off but next morning it was back to 12.2 which disappointed me.
 

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So I've just put the car on charge on the Granny at 6A starting at 9am and I'll be monitoring the 12v as I go, will report back
 

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So, the 12 volt battery was still showing 11.8v this morning, charged it for about 5 hours by charging the car on the Granny at 6A, the voltage initially went up from 11.8 to 12.2 within about 2 hours then to 12.3 after about 3-4 hours however it appears to then have slipped back to 12.1 after 5-6 hours, suggesting some sort of cut off at 12.3. I'll check it again tomorrow and see where it lands.
 

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Your 12 volt battery doesn't charge because of plug in events as far as I've heard. It probably should do so automatically as plugging in does cause increased 12 volt drain. 12.2/12.3 was probably just within the measurement threshold of error from a single charging event sometime in those first two hours (a DC/DC converter from the traction battery to the 12 volt battery). If it is back down to 11.8 v tomorrow, I think your battery is toast. If so, I'd suggest trying a smart trickle charger as a last attempt to resuscitate it before getting a new battery.
 

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12.0 this morning. Have ordered a conditioning trickle charger so will see how that goes whenever that arrives.
 

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2017 ioniq PHEV owner HERE... I posted this before. The 12V battery is charged when the car is plugged in and being charged via either charger. The voltage of my battery normally shows around 12.0-12.6V, when the car is being charged it shows 14V, so...

THE PHEV 12V BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED WHEN THE PHEV TRACTION BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED.
 

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THE PHEV 12V BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED WHEN THE PHEV TRACTION BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED.
Exactly how does this happen? The charger is not providing a 12 volt source, right? The normal charging of the 12 volt battery is intermittent triggered by low voltage reading, not constant. How is this different when plugged in? Have you a volt meter attached and observed during plug in and can tell us what it shows over the course of charging the traction battery?
 

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Exactly how does this happen? The charger is not providing a 12 volt source, right? The normal charging of the 12 volt battery is intermittent triggered by low voltage reading, not constant. How is this different when plugged in? Have you a volt meter attached and observed during plug in and can tell us what it shows over the course of charging the traction battery?
If I recollect properly, PHEV is indeed getting a 12V charge when plugged in. This is stopped when the high voltage batterys charging is stopped.
 

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Had the car on the granny at 6A on solar whilst the sun was out for about 5 hours today, 12v now showing 12.1. not really sure if it's charging or not.
Also, just read the manual, section 7-16, it says disconnect the 12v battery before putting it on charge. I've never done that with any of my ICE cars before. Any thoughts?
 

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12v battery readout shows 14.5 - 14.7 whilst car is switched on, then drops to 12 ish on aux setting, (one push of on switch without foot on brake).
The plug in voltmeter cost around £3 so not exactly state of the art instrumentation........
 

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BlueNev said:
THE PHEV 12V BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED WHEN THE PHEV TRACTION BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED.

1- Exactly how does this happen? 2- The charger is not providing a 12 volt source, right? 3- The normal charging of the 12 volt battery is intermittent triggered by low voltage reading, not constant. 4- How is this different when plugged in? 5- Have you a volt meter attached and observed during plug in and can tell us what it shows over the course of charging the traction battery?
Please have a look at my full message... You quoted 4 words too short "IT SHOWS 14V". You missed the 14V and you missed that I own an ioniq and a PHEV at that. Please do not use just the evidence you require to sound clever. Smacks of fake news.
  • I confess to having a degree in Electrical and Electronic Engineering and will try to help you understand the system of the ioniq PHEV car. I am sure that a dealer will let you mess with a PHEV if I can't help you. With my total respect of course.
I have added numbers to help. In summary I would suggest you misunderstand the PHEV and the following is pointless.
1- how indeed. Firstly, plug the car in, when you then open the door it tells you on the dash screen the time to 100% and current SOC. So we conclude the car is "ON" in some respects eg it is powering the dash and knows to preserve the 12V battery at 14.33V, this slightly lower than the voltage when the car is just ON 14.47V.
I have observed the 12V battery voltage since I got the car.
2- NO. The charge cable provides AC mains at 230V at a suitable amperage. Why would you conclude that the charge cable might provide a 12V source and act like a $15 smart 12V battery charger that I picked up from Lidl? No reply necessary.
3- No. The 12V battery is charged when the car is ON. That's why it gets upset with you after 30 seconds of leaving the radio on but switching the car OFF. You are describing the Battery Saver+, if SWITCHED ON BY THE DRIVER, which does indeed check the battery during the hours and days the car is not switched on. The 12V battery is charged when the car is ON. I used my magic powers... no volt meter required... They taught me at Uni. 14.47V.
4- Again your assumptions are wrong.
Plugged IN =(almost equivalent to) CAR ON.
As far as the PHEV car is concerned the cars systems(or most) have to be ON for the car to RUN and ALSO for the car to charge the traction battery. So the 12V battery will show 14.33V as opposed to 12.28V when it's OFF immediately after using 45% of the traction battery.
5- No. There is no point in having a Voltmeter attached to the cigar lighter port as it will show nothing when the car is off and will only show 14. 47V, when ON. No need to reply.
An odb2 app say torque might help but the odb2 unit would draw from the battery all the time.
When the car is charging the traction battery at
55% SOC the battery shows 14.33V
83% SOC the battery shows 13.20V

Yes the voltage has gone down but the Battery Saver+ will not kick in to attempt to charge the battery as it is not low enough. This is the normal function of the car.

Notes smart charging battery from 12Apr20
12.04 12Apr20
12.04 14Apr20 charging at 12.29
12.40 15Apr20 after 2x full smart charge

Notes on today 17Apr20
12.28V car Off not charging
14.47V car On not charging
12.56V car Off but charging. Volts up as car charged it in 5 mins.

Plug in grannie charger at 2.5 kw

14.33V SOC 55% 2hr 15.mn to go
13.20V SOC 83% 45min to go
12.45V SOC assumed as 100%, cable still plugged in but car does not show this on the dash and therefore no longer requires to keep 12V battery charged.

It is fairly obvious that I do connect a volt meter to the battery directly, when I don't feel the need to rely on my specially trained powers.
 
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