[TonyBr]

Yes Steve, what a good idea.
In most “walks of life” we are all too quick to criticise when things don‘t quite work out so it would be nice to give positive feedback when deserved.
Thus I have just created a new thread.
Regards Tony.

 

[HLPC]

MIne has exactly the same clicking issue after an update to try and fix another problem of my Coolant Level Low Warning coming on randomly at startup. Its been back 4 time to try and fix this and is now going in for its 5th visit to supposedly do multiple flushes on the cooling system. I will tell them about this clicking fix, as they are saying its due to the Low Coolant Level but only started clicking after they updated the car.
Thanks.

 

[djsoftware]

Just as an update the new charging port lock actuator was fitted this morning and problem solved so now its a lot quieter (apart from the bongs) on startup. Great service as it was a while you wait appointment and car fixed and washed within an hour and a quarter. It was quite funny as the people that booked courtesy cars then had to spend another 10 mins in the car park while the ICE car defrosted.

 

[HLPC]

My car went in for the clicking noise and coolant level low alarm. They said they had fixed both after 2 days there to fit a new charging port and multiple coolant flushes. Went to pick it up and asked if I could check the charging port. Pulled straight out.☹ So not fixed even thought they said it had locked every time they tried the new one. Left car there and another 2 days have passed with no communication from the dealer. Will update if I get it back fixed.

 

[fiehlsport]

Our 2019 just started doing this, or I just noticed it at least. We got the re-flash update earlier this year, but I didn't notice the relay clicking until a few weeks ago. Appointment booked for next week...

Tested the charge port lock and it definitely isn't working.

 

[fiehlsport]

Appointment scheduled for Tuesday to get a new charge port actuator installed. They were able to replicate the issue and ordered it up last week.

I tried DCFC last night, and got a Check EV light - is it possible that the car won't DC fast charge unless the charge port lock functions? Hoping the new actuator fixes it, not sure if I should bring this up to the dealer or not.

 

[chui]

Appointment scheduled for Tuesday to get a new charge port actuator installed. They were able to replicate the issue and ordered it up last week.

I tried DCFC last night, and got a Check EV light - is it possible that the car won't DC fast charge unless the charge port lock functions? Hoping the new actuator fixes it, not sure if I should bring this up to the dealer or not.

Yes the charge port does need to lock before any charging can take place, AC or DC.

 

[fiehlsport]

Yes the charge port does need to lock before any charging can take place, AC or DC.

No issues with mine charging on AC, before or after the charge port lock issue.

 

[fiehlsport]

Interesting development…. Car is at the dealer and they need another day to work on it. Apparently the actuator is working in reverse - when the car is locked, it unlocks, and when the car is unlocked, it locks.

Not sure if there’s a software glitch somewhere or what… they mentioned maybe a relay as well. Anyone hear of this behavior before?

 

[fiehlsport]

The dealer just called and is ordering a new “Smart junction box” to complete the repair. Not sure if I’ve seen that anyone has needed this part yet on the forums… might be a unique failure.

 

[djsoftware]

The dealer just called and is ordering a new “Smart junction box” to complete the repair. Not sure if I’ve seen that anyone has needed this part yet on the forums… might be a unique failure.

Yes sounds unique as I just had the charging port lock actuator replaced and problem solved, its been nice to not have the excessive ticking when I get into the car or start it up.

 

[fiehlsport]

Yup, when they pointed out the SJB to me, I think that is where the clicking comes from. It looks like the SJB is related to other failures on Hyundai/Kia vehicles that can cause the turn signals to work the opposite in which they're indicated. So if mine failed as well, makes sense that the charge port actuator is working in the wrong direction.

 

[fiehlsport]

They’ve gone nuts replacing all the parts, 3 different things now I think. Plan is to replace the new actuator with another new actuator, as the new one may have been faulty.

I suggested running the recall software update again as well, as it may have some fixes to the logic for this… we shall see next week.

My wife is loving her ‘23 Santa Fe Limited loaner in the meantime…. So much better for kid stuff.

 

[fiehlsport]

New actuator came in and it's still working in reverse. Their next step is to de-pin the harness and flip the wires to see if that fixes it.

Can anyone share a part number of the new actuator their vehicle received after having this relay clicking issue? I want to make sure they're actually installing the right one... I don't believe the vehicle should have to be re-wired if it was working on the original actuator prior to the PCM update last year.

Edit: Looks like it is 91999-G7310, which has been superseded by 91999-G7630. I'll have to ask which one they used.

 

[djsoftware]

 

[djsoftware]

This is all I got back on the service sheet when the car was returned.

 

[fiehlsport]

Thanks! I've got a sheet now of all the various part numbers... we'll see what they say later.

'17-19 EV: 91999-G7310, superseded by 91999-G7630
'20-22 EV: 91999-G7640
'17-22 PHEV: 91999-G7110, superseded by 91999-G7610

Edit: Looks like they used G7630, so that's correct at least. I guess the tech is back on with the Hyundai Techline this morning to find a fix. This is crazy...

 

[fiehlsport]

So I left the dealer with my original inlet actuator re-installed, and working!

The tech re-pinned the connections at the actuator and that got it working again. Somehow, the new actuator(s) sent by Hyundai were both defective, and when he re-installed my old one, it worked fine. So it probably hasn't failed yet, and because of that, there's no reason to warranty it.

In the future, I know what to look for when it fails, and hopefully the new superseded P/N actually works in my car by then. If I'm out of the 5yr/60K warranty by then, it seems to be a $66 part that I can easily DIY.

I'm just happy the wiring is cleaned up and working again. No more relay clicking under the dash now, either.

 

[HandyAndy]

Is it easy to diy remove this actuator & SJB stuff from the car? Just wondering, if mine ever starts this nonsense I'd quite like to have a poke at it myself before going to the dealer...

 

[fiehlsport]

Is it easy to diy remove this actuator & SJB stuff from the car? Just wondering, if mine ever starts this nonsense I'd quite like to have a poke at it myself before going to the dealer...

The smart junction box turned out not to be the issue - I wouldn't worry about that. The actuator is pretty easy with the wheel removed.

This PDF has step by step instructions:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10151892-9999.pdf

I'm not afraid of the warranty running out now. Just need to get the latest P/N for the actuator once mine eventually fails. (again)