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A suggestion - get the car back so you can drive it. If it fails call them and get them to come and diagnose. We did that on our Mitsubishi with a very similar issue. If they can't come out e.g. is happens in the evening then you still have AA to sort you out.

CJ
 

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If it only happened once (albeit being a major issues that stumped even the AA patrol), AND it's on a lease and rejecting the car will be complicated/costly, then I would be inclined to ask the dealer to apply all the currently outstanding software updates (BMS etc), and let you have the car back, and hopefully this will resolve the issue. It's not ideal, because understandably you would prefer them to find an actual fault that they can demonstrate they fixed, but this might be a practical way forward.
 

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Hyundai ioniq PHEV 2018.
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UPDATE: It has now been 8 days since I wrote the original post and my Ioniq 5 is still at the dealers with no word from them on when or how they are going to fix the issue.
Spoke to the head of the service centre last Friday and he said that unless they can replicate the ‘zombie’ issue again they can’t diagnose it to fix it.
He said that they would continuously try and switch it on to see if it goes into Drive, but my Bluelink app tells me otherwise!
They are just sitting on it and they never phone me with an update.

Meanwhile I’m shelling out circa £500 a month for the pleasure of driving around in some old bayun(?) that they’ve lent me.

Really terrible aftercare service and no hope of getting my money back according to Hyundai Finance as I was 1 day outside of the cooling-off period 😡

Anyone in this forum have the zombie issue and successfully manage to get it fixed?
 

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I wouldn't expect a totally flat battery on a car that is only 2 weeks old!!!!
We had the same issue the 12v it's probably due to the dealer not charging it before you took delivery, these cars sit on a ship for 5 or 6 weeks then sit at the dock for another week or so then a few days at the dealers why they prep it. Electric cars don't charge the 12v battery in the same way as fossil fuel cars it probably just needs a good run out assuming you can get it out of park. Since then we have not had an issue with the 12v which you can monitor via the bluelink app

We also had the can't get it out of park issue ' zombie mode', this appears to have been fixed with the software update that the dealer needs to do not the media/nav update that you can do yourself, since the update we have not had any further issues so far.

UK law states you can reject a new car up to 6 months old "Your rights to a full refund are lost after 30 days. Instead, for cars between one and six months old, the dealer must be given one chance to repair the car or offer a replacement.

Should the former fail to get to the root of the problem, or the latter isn’t to the customer’s satisfaction, then the dealer must offer a partial refund.

Typically, the refund will be a value that’s reflective of the car’s age and condition. Unfortunately, this inevitably means you stand to lose money: even two-month old cars can depreciate substantially from their original showroom prices."



This system works I have previously rejected a car under these rules the dealers not going to 'offer' it but if you insist legally they have no options, If it turns out to be a hardware issue they are unlikely to get parts for months.... and with demand and high re-sale prices they will not be able to offer you a stupidly low value either.
 

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This issue has happened to us twice in the one month since we got the Ioniq 5.

The first time around, I thought it could've been me not having put the car to Ready (ie, start/stop pressed without the brake pedal) while playing around with the menus for the first time setting up profiles etc., but fortunately charging the high voltage main battery apparently solved the issue.

Don't actually know for sure though whether a) I had indeed mistakenly started it without brake pedal b) whether it was able to start later due to the time elapsed since my last attempt or due to the trickle charge of the main battery.

If the high voltage main battery isn't full, I would personally just charge that instead of charging the 12v through smart charger using jump leads because charging the main battery should charge the 12v too (stated in the manual) and I don't really want to use the jump leads if I can avoid that because technically, in line with what the manual says, shouldn't jump charge the 12v without disconnecting it from the car first (haven't seen anyone disconnect the 12v from the car first though prior to jump charge, certainly the AA man didn't do that - see further below).

Second time it happened, I'm sure I had the vehicle in Ready and then changed it to Util mode so I could use heating and music whilst the car was parked. The 12v got low (maybe, I don't know). Failed to go to Drive gear. Then failed to go to Ready mode once switched off and back on. AA called. 12v jump charged. No dice. Lock-unlock-lock-unlock (ie twice) per AA's direction, no dice. AA man disconnected and reconnected 12v battery, car goes okay to Ready mode.

This implies potential culprits as:
  • Even in Util mode via Ready mode, the car uses 12v for either/both of audio and heating, or the car uses 12v for the two screens always no matter which mode and 40 minutes showing those two screens is enough to drain the 12v battery enough for the car to refuse to shift to Drive mode.
  • If you put the car to Util mode, you are in for trouble when you attempt to come out of it and attempt to start driving, for some people sometimes (doesn't happen always)

This is hugely frustrating when it happens. Prior to reading this thread, I wasn't aware of zombie mode and thought I genuinely had low battery somehow (even now, I think that might be the case but even if so, once jump charged, it still has to be disconnected and reconnected, so definitely a software glitch as well).

The Hyundai manual cryptically uses 'etc' giving a couple of examples of what would run using the high voltage main battery when in Util mode.

I want to know if any of a) heating, b) screens and/or c) audio playback uses 12v regardless of whether the car is in the Util mode. I'll then not use those systems whilst the car is parked (it would be a bummer if that's the heating as it's the onset of winter in the UK now).
 

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This issue has happened to us twice in the one month since we got the Ioniq 5.

The first time around, I thought it could've been me not having put the car to Ready (ie, start/stop pressed without the brake pedal) while playing around with the menus for the first time setting up profiles etc., but fortunately charging the high voltage main battery apparently solved the issue.

Don't actually know for sure though whether a) I had indeed mistakenly started it without brake pedal b) whether it was able to start later due to the time elapsed since my last attempt or due to the trickle charge of the main battery.

If the high voltage main battery isn't full, I would personally just charge that instead of charging the 12v through smart charger using jump leads because charging the main battery should charge the 12v too (stated in the manual) and I don't really want to use the jump leads if I can avoid that because technically, in line with what the manual says, shouldn't jump charge the 12v without disconnecting it from the car first (haven't seen anyone disconnect the 12v from the car first though prior to jump charge, certainly the AA man didn't do that - see further below).

Second time it happened, I'm sure I had the vehicle in Ready and then changed it to Util mode so I could use heating and music whilst the car was parked. The 12v got low (maybe, I don't know). Failed to go to Drive gear. Then failed to go to Ready mode once switched off and back on. AA called. 12v jump charged. No dice. Lock-unlock-lock-unlock (ie twice) per AA's direction, no dice. AA man disconnected and reconnected 12v battery, car goes okay to Ready mode.

This implies potential culprits as:
  • Even in Util mode via Ready mode, the car uses 12v for either/both of audio and heating, or the car uses 12v for the two screens always no matter which mode and 40 minutes showing those two screens is enough to drain the 12v battery enough for the car to refuse to shift to Drive mode.
  • If you put the car to Util mode, you are in for trouble when you attempt to come out of it and attempt to start driving, for some people sometimes (doesn't happen always)

This is hugely frustrating when it happens. Prior to reading this thread, I wasn't aware of zombie mode and thought I genuinely had low battery somehow (even now, I think that might be the case but even if so, once jump charged, it still has to be disconnected and reconnected, so definitely a software glitch as well).

The Hyundai manual cryptically uses 'etc' giving a couple of examples of what would run using the high voltage main battery when in Util mode.

I want to know if any of a) heating, b) screens and/or c) audio playback uses 12v regardless of whether the car is in the Util mode. I'll then not use those systems whilst the car is parked (it would be a bummer if that's the heating as it's the onset of winter in the UK now).
Next time it happens:
  • shut down car
  • get out and lock it
  • use app to climatize car
  • once aircon starts - open, get in, start and drive away

Users in germany reported that this takes the car out of the zombie mode!
 

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Own Lucid Blue RWD 73KW Premium Ioniq 5
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Does anyone know (for certain) how the 'algorithm' for charging actually works? My guess is that as per m.ioniq5.user spoke of above, if any 12v device is being used (screens, blowers. lights etc - or the processor for doing an update in Util Mode!) then it is consuming power from the 12v battery which is (in theory) then being charged by the 800v battery - I cannot believe Hyundai have a 800v to 12v supply direct convertor installed and if they did why don't they get rid of the 12 v battery! I then assume that this 'algorithm' decides when the 12v battery needs charging and does so - but does it charge until it is completely full or for a limited period of time. in my ICE (and I have some old ones!) the alternator/dynamo start providing a charge the minute the engine is turning and continue to do so all the time the engine is running with the battery charge simply being controlled by Control Box/Voltage Regulator (real old) or some form of electronic control all the time - if the battery needs charging it lets it happen. If the EV 12v battery is not being charged for as long as it needs to be charged fully, then there must be a risk that it will slowly deplete until the car does the electric version of 'there isn't enough charge to get the starter to turn' - zombie mode. Everything I have read seems to imply it is based on a time event (when charging etc) as opposed to a need event (voltage below a certain level - and keep going until it is fully charged). I think certainly over the winter I am going to trickle charge mine once a month, just like I do for my stored classics, cant do any harm and might save a lot of pain.

My one experience of zombie mode was on day 2 of ownership. I put it on charge (it took 8 hours to complete!) and I have had no further problem. I will be interested to see how long it takes to complete when I do it again.

(and yes I have a BM2 Battery Monitor on my Christmas List!)
 

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Does anyone know (for certain) how the 'algorithm' for charging actually works? My guess is that as per m.ioniq5.user spoke of above, if any 12v device is being used (screens, blowers. lights etc - or the processor for doing an update in Util Mode!) then it is consuming power from the 12v battery which is (in theory) then being charged by the 800v battery - I cannot believe Hyundai have a 800v to 12v supply direct convertor installed and if they did why don't they get rid of the 12 v battery! I then assume that this 'algorithm' decides when the 12v battery needs charging and does so - but does it charge until it is completely full or for a limited period of time. in my ICE (and I have some old ones!) the alternator/dynamo start providing a charge the minute the engine is turning and continue to do so all the time the engine is running with the battery charge simply being controlled by Control Box/Voltage Regulator (real old) or some form of electronic control all the time - if the battery needs charging it lets it happen. If the EV 12v battery is not being charged for as long as it needs to be charged fully, then there must be a risk that it will slowly deplete until the car does the electric version of 'there isn't enough charge to get the starter to turn' - zombie mode. Everything I have read seems to imply it is based on a time event (when charging etc) as opposed to a need event (voltage below a certain level - and keep going until it is fully charged). I think certainly over the winter I am going to trickle charge mine once a month, just like I do for my stored classics, cant do any harm and might save a lot of pain.

My one experience of zombie mode was on day 2 of ownership. I put it on charge (it took 8 hours to complete!) and I have had no further problem. I will be interested to see how long it takes to complete when I do it again.

(and yes I have a BM2 Battery Monitor on my Christmas List!)
I wonder if this is why we originally thought it was to do with charging the car. It would make sense for it to be happening after a charge if you're sitting in the car with in on whilst it charges and draining the 12V.
 

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Project 45 - Gravity Gold
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Does anyone know (for certain) how the 'algorithm' for charging actually works? ...... Everything I have read seems to imply it is based on a time event (when charging etc) as opposed to a need event (voltage below a certain level - and keep going until it is fully charged).....
Looking at my Battery Monitor, it shows the 12v battery automatically charging when the voltage drops below a certain level & whenever I use pre-heating via bluelink
Font Technology Pattern Parallel Electronic device


More info here >> Fitting a BM2 Battery Monitor Device to the I5
 

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Own Lucid Blue RWD 73KW Premium Ioniq 5
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Looking at my Battery Monitor, it shows the 12v battery automatically charging when the voltage drops below a certain level & whenever I use pre-heating via bluelink
View attachment 36915

More info here >> Fitting a BM2 Battery Monitor Device to the I5
Interesting (if I am reading it right) that it initially (at 6am) charges for nearly an hour, has a little blip, and leaves the battery at its highest for the day, then subsequent charges are only minimal time and each time never recovers the voltage to what it was, then at 8pm does another longer, nearly an hour, charge to get it right back up again. So it is at 'peak' first thing and then slowly depletes throughout the day only to be pushed back up at the end of the day. I wonder what the lowest voltage point is for it to be 'OK' and what time most people see 'zombie mode' during the day - first thing or later in the day?
 

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Interesting (if I am reading it right) .....
That's generally what seems to be happening - the battery gets a short charge whenever I activated pre-heating or was driving (lots of 12v getting used on the headlights at this time of the year as well), and when it approaches 12.5v, its given another top up to just below 13v (charging at just below 15v)

I also thought the above chart interesting as it showed the battery getting an hour long boost just before I did the early morning pre-heat.
I wondered if it had been monitoring my previous few days of pre-heating at that same time & had learned from those previous events that another boost was required?
If I get chance, I'll download last weeks charging patterns tomorrow and add them to the other thread.
I love analysing interesting charts :geek:
 

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hello, I am from France, happy owner of a P45, having the same problem mentioned in the subject, I am just going to have an update to the hyandai , "recall after not starting the car after a quick charge "hoping not to have this problem in the future.
I have already had this problem twice
 

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I suspect the battery is months old from when it was produced, installed in the car and then transported across the oceans! If the car hasn't been charged or in fact put into some form of 'transportation mode' while it is in transit maybe there is some discharge and it is getting too low and not responding to a proper charge need once it is properly ready. Mine went into zombie on day 1, luckily at home so I put the 12v on charge using a smart charger - it took 6 hours to get up to a 80% charge, so clearly low, left it to fully charge and never had a problem since (fingers crossed or whatever the EV/electronic version is!).
Where did you get the smart charger for the 12v? Called out the AA as I had the same problem with the 12v, the AA man recharged it but said it didn’t need replacing
 
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