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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’ve only had my ioniq 5 for 2 weeks and in that time I’ve had at least a dozen times where it won’t shift from P to D (or R)
Have to keep switching it on and off and then eventually it works.
But tonight it won’t go into D at all.
Had to call AA out and they are scratching their head too.
It’s going back to the dealer tomorrow!!

UPDATE: It’s been 4 days now and I’ve still not heard back from the dealer of Hyundai customer services about how they plan to fix the issue.
what’s worse I can see from Bluelink that the car is being driven around!! I suspect that they’re using it as a showroom model whilst I pay for its lease and drive around in a crappy Bayon they lent me.
they’ve not called me with any update on how they plan to fix it.
The service from both Hyundai and Ancaster (the dealer I bought it from) has been shockingly poor.
And I’ve been told by Hyundai Finance that because I am now outside of the 2 week cooling off period (by 1 day) Icannot get my money back.
Please if you are reading this - do not waste your money on an Ioniq 5. 😢
 

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1. Are you keeping the brake pedal pressed while pressing the ON button, abd then while engaging D?

2. Did this happen after a DC charge?

If it's the second option, then the dealer will likely apply a software update that will resolve this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Yep. Tried the brake pedal thing many times. Also tried switching off and on many times.
2. What is a DC charge? Yea it had been charging shortly before I drove it but it started after the charge. Just wouldn’t start again after I got to the shops 😡

AA man rebooted the whole thing and it started.
Not what you want from a new car though. Thoroughly unimpressed so far
 

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Own Lucid Blue RWD 73KW Premium Ioniq 5
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1. Yep. Tried the brake pedal thing many times. Also tried switching off and on many times.
2. What is a DC charge? Yea it had been charging shortly before I drove it but it started after the charge. Just wouldn’t start again after I got to the shops 😡

AA man rebooted the whole thing and it started.
Not what you want from a new car though. Thoroughly unimpressed so far
When you say the AA man rebooted it - how did he do that - was it simply disconnecting the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Report from AA as follows:

12volt system showing 11.3v on attendance. Battery boosted with nil effect. 12 v power removed from system and 2 min sleep period attained. 12 v reconnected and achieved ready status and would driveFull scan revealed no error codes to be present.No clear indication of reason for drive failure but suspect possible software issues present.






 

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This is a common problem and it's one of the reasons why we rejected our Ioniq 5 and got our money back.

It's OK talking about all these updates and how the car may be fine in the future but all I wanted was a car to get me from A to B without issue. Not much to ask.

Good luck with the dealer and the car,

SB
 

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Ioniq 5 ..Ultimate 4wd.
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1. Yep. Tried the brake pedal thing many times. Also tried switching off and on many times.
2. What is a DC charge? Yea it had been charging shortly before I drove it but it started after the charge. Just wouldn’t start again after I got to the shops 😡

AA man rebooted the whole thing and it started.
Not what you want from a new car though. Thoroughly unimpressed so far
Unimpressed indeed... And so would i be.... How hard can it be to engineer a reliable start/stop/forward/reverse/ on an electric car.
Your not the first to encounter this problem and almost definitely not going to be the last.
In fact I'm beginning to wonder how many owners have actually NOT had a problem at all since taking delivery of their vehicle... having waited many weeks or mths for delivery like i am.
The more i read on here... The more i feel its going to be Russian Roulette on the reliability of it when it finally does arrive.
I do hope you get your car sorted quickly and have no further issues.
 

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I collected my car on 6th September and had no issues with it so far.

But, obviously, a software bug of this nature is unlikely to manifest itself on each and every car.

Another thought is perhaps the various issues reported are down to earlier cars? I think that IONIQ 5 was in sale here since May or July? The question is when was each car manufacturers, as opposed to when it was sold and registered.
 

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Ioniq 5 ..Ultimate 4wd.
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No you shouldn't.... It should be monitored by the on board systems and kept constantly topped up by the main 800v motor drive battery... So in theory should never happen.... However.. could have perhaps been worse... As someone else reported that he was unable to unlock the car by using the fob... Had to use the key to get in and then further hassle to release charging port and bonnet to access the battery after his 12v battery went flat also.
 

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Own Lucid Blue RWD 73KW Premium Ioniq 5
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I suspect the battery is months old from when it was produced, installed in the car and then transported across the oceans! If the car hasn't been charged or in fact put into some form of 'transportation mode' while it is in transit maybe there is some discharge and it is getting too low and not responding to a proper charge need once it is properly ready. Mine went into zombie on day 1, luckily at home so I put the 12v on charge using a smart charger - it took 6 hours to get up to a 80% charge, so clearly low, left it to fully charge and never had a problem since (fingers crossed or whatever the EV/electronic version is!).
 

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It’s a known and document software issue with the motor control unit.
It needs a short software patch. Your dealer should have it listed as a service action.
no drama.
I've had this fault after the service update. The service update was supposed to stop this problem happening after DC charge I understood, whereas I encountered the problem after the car just sitting on the drive overnight, no charging was involved.
 

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This is a common problem and it's one of the reasons why we rejected our Ioniq 5 and got our money back.

It's OK talking about all these updates and how the car may be fine in the future but all I wanted was a car to get me from A to B without issue. Not much to ask.

Good luck with the dealer and the car,

SB
Will you get an IONIQ 5 in the future or have you had enough?
 

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MY22 Ioniq 5 AWD
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I wouldn't expect a totally flat battery on a car that is only 2 weeks old!!!!
Yep, it sounds like damaged battery cell(s). Of course I can’t be sure but sounds like problem I had that with a Citroen I owned. Everything reported as fine (no error codes), but I came out of gym one morning & car wouldn’t start & all displays in car were suddenly in French! Had it towed, expecting something major but local garage replaced battery & car was good until I sold it some years later.

It’s really annoying because the car appears to run perfectly, & battery charge is usually low but in “normal” range, but some of car high-draw systems (like an ICE starter motor) will fail, while others will continue working. Albeit in French in my Citroen.

I think EVs may be more vulnerable to this after long transport, & as others have suggested, manufacturers storing sealed batteries while they wait for scarce chips to arrive.
 

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I’ve only had my ioniq 5 for 2 weeks and in that time I’ve had at least a dozen times where it won’t shift from P to D (or R)
Have to keep switching it on and off and then eventually it works.
But tonight it won’t go into D at all.
Had to call AA out and they are scratching their head too.
It’s going back to the dealer tomorrow!!
its a known issue on many ioniq5 models.
2 weeks ago new updates came out for the system/drive.
they call it MCU updates. there were 4 of them,
one of them is to fix zombie mode. which is this problem you are describing, where the car cant switch to DRIVE,

call the dealer and ask them to scan the car with ther GDS tool ( diagnostic ) tool, then it will tell, that some updates are missing.

edit: go to this site and enter your cars VIN number

it will then tell you what MCU update you are missing
 

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its a known issue on many ioniq5 models.
2 weeks ago new updates came out for the system/drive.
they call it MCU updates. there were 4 of them,
one of them is to fix zombie mode. which is this problem you are describing, where the car cant switch to DRIVE,

call the dealer and ask them to scan the car with ther GDS tool ( diagnostic ) tool, then it will tell, that some updates are missing.

edit: go to this site and enter your cars VIN number

it will then tell you what MCU update you are missing
That's great advice but we warned that here in the UK some people are having the updates and yet the zombie drive issue is still persisting on their cars..........so a further update may be needed.
 
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