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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried to open the car this morning, no reaction from the remote so rtfm and try to open the door. I had to call the dealer because I couldnt figure out where to put the key. It appears you have to remove a little cover by pressing a tiny button in front of the doorhandle( or back, whichever way you think) After opening the door and trying to start no welcoming tune, no light, nothing. So calling the Hyundai mobility service, which didn't have the data of the car yet, 3 days old and 300 km on the clock) but no problem, in half an hour there was a mechanic) He jumpstarted the car and advised me to go to the dealer, to find out what the cause was. So I did and together with Hyundai Netherland they went through all the available data, tested the 12V battery and found nothing. The only thing out of the ordinary; I kept the Tomtom loader in the socket, presuming that when the contact is off that would be turned off as well. The dealer could not confirm that and told me they will find that out. I will keep it out if not used for now.
It might be a good tip if you look how to manually open the door in normal dry and daytime conditions, it could be a hassle if you need it and do not know how it works in the dark while it is raining or freezing. I hope you will never need it. The dealer sofar did everything to find out. Luckily I have a backup plan if it happens again when I need to go to work at 5.30 in the morning. Bram
 

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Good information, thanks for that. Is that a hybrid you have? It would be an interesting experiment to see which, if any, of the 12V ports are powered when the car is off.
 

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Darn, terribly sorry to hear that happened but thanks for the update. Wouldn't think the Tomtom would draw that much power though? That's odd
 

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Yes the Electric also has a 12 V battery. Although I read some rumours that this may not be the case in the US.

For hybrid or full electric cars a 12 V battery is important to protect the traction battery in case that the battery is fully exhausted when the car is left for a longer time while still something is using current, for example a light or your Tom Tom device. In such cases only the 12 V battery can be damaged by becoming fully exhausted and not the traction battery. So we should be happy to have one.

However, often the capacity is smaller than in ICE cars, as they don't have to provide power for a start engine. This makes that they more easily become flat. I have read that also from Prius owners, although it never happened to me personally. So we should be happy with the 12 V battery but also careful.
 

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A GPS will draw enough power to drain the 12-V battery eventually, but I would think that it would take a few days. I'm surprised that it would take the battery so low that it wouldn't run the low-power accessories such as gauges. You could test whether the accessory socket is off with the key or not by plugging something in the socket with the key off. My TomTom GPS has a small LED light on the plug-in that glows when it has power.

I think you may have some other accessory or some other parasitic drain taking the battery down. I would look carefully at all the lights. Glove box light not going out. Trunk light not going out, etc. Last summer I ruined the 12-V battery in my car when I accidentally turned on a dome light during the day by bumping it with my head and didn't notice it was on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually it was just the loader, no cable attached. What I also just noticed is that the light of a Usb stick was lit all the time, even after 10 minutes, so I took that one out as well, I would like to use the car tomorrow. I hope this was the issue, will see tomorrow.
Bram
 

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boot light easy to check, leave load cover open , close boot lock car, does boot light go out ??


glovebox easy to check, open glove box take your phone, set it recording video, place in glovebox with camera up, close glovebox, lock car, leave a few minutes, then retrieve camera and check footage to see if light went out


when I checked the cigarette and USB sockets in my hybrid they all turned off when I shut the car down


maybe someone with a EV should double check these, also maybe they are different in other countries
 

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(IONIQ-Hybrid)
The USB port in the middle has power always, even when all systems are off.
As you can see in the picture, I always have a USB-memory-stick with a lit red led with mp3's in that USB port. Even when leaving the car at rest for two days, I had no issue's with the battery.
The 12v sockets and USB in the centre-console are powered-off when system is off. The USB connector in the centre console is for 5v power only. It is not a USB port to connect to the infotainment system.

Interior lights should also be no problem. I forgot to switch them off nearly every time I had been sitting in the car to try something with nav or so. They will turn-off after about 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, it did it again, no power what so ever. I am now sitting at the dealer trying to get some work done remotely while the mechanics are cooking their brains to find the problem, lets wait and see.
Bram
 

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If you have the hybrid version; it may possibly be a defect 12V battery or alternator, alternatively a short or a parasitic drain somewhere.

If you have the electric version, I have read numerous times on-line of people who had to set the correct setting in the systems menu so that the 12V battery would charge as expected. See pages H77 and H78 in the manual.

(manuals: http://www.ioniqforum.com/forum/7-h...ion/1498-owners-manuals-online.html#post15170 ).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The hybrid will sleep over tonight I guess. The dealer confirmed it leaks electricity but they don't know where. They gave me an Opel Adam, would have preferrred an Eve, to get home. I hope they find it tomorrow, friday the car has to meet the wintertire guy.
 

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Good luck. I've troubleshooted parasitic drains in a car and a motorcycle before. They weren't easy problems to find in either case. You have to disconnect the battery cable and measure the parasitic current while pulling fuses to identify which fuse buss is the problem. Then go after each load on the buss. Hopefully your mechanic has good schematics.
 

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Well at least now you know it's not your fault and it's an actual issue that can be solved. Electricity leaks may be hard to detect on these things considering all of the electronics running. I wonder what a wiring diagram for one of these looks like..
 

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Lol maybe get some headphones in and utilize spotify or something ? Glad that they found what the issue was... any ETA on a replacement ?
 

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Good that they spotted it fairly quickly, and hopefully (for the rest of us), it's an isolated incident.
 

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If it were my car I would also do a loaded battery test to make sure the battery is OK. One deep discharge greatly shortens the life of a pb-acid battery and two deep discharges can finish it for good. A battery shop will usually do the test for free if your dealer doesn't have a tester.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
About the battery, thanks for the advice, did some reading and you have a point, I will call the service guys monday to ask him if he orders a new one along with the radio. There was no ETA given, will ask that too. Bram.
 
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