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Then it fits. 28,55 - 10 % is 25,7 kWhs. You said you have usable 25,2 kWhs according to your driving test, so it is pretty close.
I don't know if climate control is included in the consumption numbers or only driving. I was using 0.5kwh of heating over 4 hours. That would be an additional 2kw then.
 

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Well, then we probably won't know. It may be that charging on Ioniq is more effective, but even the most effective 3,6 kW chargers I saw are around 95 % using SiC mosfets and diodes.
 

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Someone else with a known good battery also have to try to do this. Full charge from 3% to 100% with wattmeter using the included 2.4kw charger.
 

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Your experience may vary. Consumption and capacity tests should always be done with as small a variation as possible regarding temperature, elevation, rolling resistance and speed. Tesla Björn and I have found out similar results judging from the dash. I measured some 26kWh when my Ioniq was practically new and Björn had similar results. The car isn't reporting all usage, possibly because regen messes up the values somehow and there are losses that don't show up in the kWh/100km value.
 

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Well, I literally have two cells from Ioniq battery in front of me and after 23000 kms they have only about 73–75 Ah usable according to the car cycle (4,15–3,0 V). And we tested about 4 of those even from different bricks. So in my opinion, that 28 kWh real usable capacity is a little bogus or start of degradation of these cells is pretty fast and slows down after a bit.
 

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Your experience may vary. Consumption and capacity tests should always be done with as small a variation as possible regarding temperature, elevation, rolling resistance and speed. Tesla Björn and I have found out similar results judging from the dash. I measured some 26kWh when my Ioniq was practically new and Björn had similar results. The car isn't reporting all usage, possibly because regen messes up the values somehow and there are losses that don't show up in the kWh/100km value.
Do you know if climate control is included in the consumption value?
 

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There are at least 5% top and bottom buffers on Ioniq EV. Bigger than most EVs. I do not think you have battery degradation, but most likely one or two bad cells. Use Torque or any other app you can to look at the individual cells voltages when fully charged and partially discharged, if you see > .02 Volt discrepancy (.02 V is usually caused by temperature deviation) bring the car to dealership for battery diagnostic and explain what is happening. Just like I said in earlier discussions, normal overall degradation is not the problem. It is very slow and gradual. When you notice abrupt drop in range - most of the time, it is one or few cells that drag the whole battery down. Good thing about Ioniq EV - the battery is serviceable, so it could be addressed very economically.
This is what normal battery cell voltage distribution looks like (Soul EV Spy for Ioniq EV):
View attachment 30876
Did you need a certain obd2 to run that? Tried it with mine a couple weeks ago and had a bitch of a time to try and get it to connect
 

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I saw some stuff showing the Leaf will actually at some point lose forever 1 or more of the bars that indicate the charge level, so that if you have a Leaf and it has all the bars it must still have most or all of its original capacity. Is that also true for the Ioniq? When I picked up the second hand car at the dealer they had charged it to 100% and the bars went all the way to the top; is that a sign that there is very little degradation?
 

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OK, I have done 175km since I bought the car and my range estimate is 254km (158miles).

That was an even mix of driving - motorway (60-65 mph mostly), A roads (30mph-50mph), urban (30mph or less), and some miles of a very good quality smooth dirt road at 10-15mph (the last mile to my house is dirt, so every return trip will have 2 miles of that).

Driving style is measured and careful, no sudden braking or accelerating, 100% in eco mode. No heating. Air con mostly either off or on low to stop misting but occassionally on strongly. Temperature during driving around 15C-20C.

This is a 2017 car with 69,000km. Based on this I'd say the car has lost little or no range because my experience seems to be returning results that are equivalent to those people reported in 2016/2017 when driving around the same car new.

____

I'll tell you how I worked out 254km (158 miles), let me know if anything doesn't look right and I will edit this post and update the range estimate.

The car was at 100% charge at the start of the 175km, and 45% at the end. During that time I charged it three times.

1. At a fast charger just to try it out. The amount of 2.884kWH was displayed on the charger. [EDIT May 31: Oops, forgot about efficiency losses, assume 2.65kWH to the car battery (92% efficiency estimated, 50kW DC charger). Updated other numbers in this post.]
2. Charged at home just to try it out and went from 91% to 95%. I assume 100% corresponds to a usable 28kwH (?), so 1.12kWH (4% of 28).
3. Charged at home. This was a very short charge to put a meter on it and measure the charging rate at the socket. It charged 0.150kWH. That is the measured number displayed on the meter at the socket. That was for about 5 minutes. [EDIT: Assume 90% or 0.135kWH to the battery.]

So we have 2.65+1.12+0.135=3.905kWH. Again if I can assume 100% corresponds to a usable 28kWH, then 3.905/28=13.95%.

So since I have run the battery down from 100% to 45% while also charging it 13.95% that is the same as if I had run the battery down from 100% to 31.05% so 68.95% of the battery was used.

So 68.95% corresponds to 175km so 100% (the range) would correspond to (100/68.95)*175=253.8 km (157.7 miles).
 

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Someone else with a known good battery also have to try to do this. Full charge from 3% to 100% with wattmeter using the included 2.4kw charger.
I use slow trickle charge and have made several measurements with a kWh meter since new (November 2018). From 10% to 100%, from 7% to 100%, from 15% to 100% and so on. Since today, I have always had results about +31kWh/100%. If the losses are 10%, then my battery is pretty close 28kWh. 33000 km now.
 

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I use slow trickle charge and have made several measurements with a kWh meter since new (November 2018). From 10% to 100%, from 7% to 100%, from 15% to 100% and so on. Since today, I have always had results about +31kWh/100%. If the losses are 10%, then my battery is pretty close 28kWh. 33000 km now.
I did with 4% left and my charger JuiceBox Pro counts every watts delivered to the battery, it knows car charger efficiency and its own efficiency, so it only counts the real kWh going to the battery. It was more than posted nominal capacity, but not huge, just 1.0-1.5 kWh more.
 

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10% loss over 3 years = 3.33r% loss per year is worse then my old Leaf which was about 2% loss a year :eek:
 

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