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2022 Ioniq 5 Preferred (mid trim) Long Range RWD, winter tires
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a primer for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully brief, helpful advice and quick access to common questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences by owners on YouTube much more helpful than those of car review sites.

The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly access information and responses to previous posts.

Charging
- There have been different Level 1 chargers having come with cars. The majority (if not all) have settings to change the amps delivered to the car (e.g., 2, 6, 12 for 110V and 6, 8, 10 220V) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used these may default to the lowest setting that won't power the car anytime soon. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Look for a button on the unit to hold down to change between amp settings. Set to the maximum amps. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging with 110V and double that in 220V countries. Charge rate can be determined using Current (KWh) = amps (A) X volts (V) / 1000 (KW/W).

- In 110 V countries plugging the charger into a 220 V circuit (using plug adapters), such as for washer/dryers, increases charging to 2.7 KW.

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing the dimple area on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off. Some find the dimple area needs to be pressed hard to open. Others have place a pad to promote contact of the door with the open button on the port.

- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.

- Cooling vents at the front of the car can open when charging. These will make a sound when opening and when the fan is engaged.

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed, but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to the optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).

- You can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). You can not charge yet at a Tesla Supercharger.

- A loud humming noise inside the car is common when charging above 130 KWh.

Range
- The biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- The range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The range estimate is called a GOM, guess-o-meter. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), air temperature, wind speed and direction, rolling resistance of tires/tyres, carrying load, and road surface (wet, snow, gravel).

- Those in cold climates or freeway drivers will see the range estimate steadily decrease over the first weeks of driving. Your car is not broken. The car is improving its range estimate (GOM) based on the recent driving. The range estimate that came with the car was factory setting or for driving on a test in South Korea and didn't consider your climate, freeway driving and driving behaviour.

- The car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.

- For cars that have been driven several hundred miles/km, the GOM displays expected range based on the past outdoor temperature, city or highway driving, driving mode, regen level and driving behaviour. If your next trip varies in the above from the past, the GOM will be off, and it can be considerable for example a plunge in temperature or highway driving.

- Temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.

- The faster the driving the lower the range.

- There are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- Setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as it does not use heat and AC.

- Using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.

- Depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating and AC as standard.

Dead 12 V Battery
- The car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off. It also engages the main EV battery to allow the car to drive.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked. Charging the main EV battery doesn't charge a dead 12 V battery.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key (inside the FOB), then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.

- Some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on, accessories using power when car is not in ON or Utility modes, using the bluelink system a lot or activating the open charge door via Bluelink. The car will charge the 12 V from the main battery when it needs to. It is not clear then why it may drain.

- There is a report the 12V will not charge when the EV battery is charging on AC.

- The 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.

- Having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery

- Power is on to the USB port next to the 12V socket even when the vehicle is off. An accessory plugged into that port may cause a drain. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well?).

Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Older software versions had the infotainment system lacking delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- The navigation system is handy but also very bad for accuracy. Nav may be getting better with each update. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.

- If your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.

- There is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps Android Car) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.

- The Bluelink app can be very sluggish in some countries. The app features also differ between countries.

- Infotainment and navigation software updates are available spring and fall each year. It can be downloaded at Official Hyundai Motors Navigation Update Website. You will need to set up an account. Download an installer. Have a 64 GB memory stick. The stick shouldn’t have anything on you want to keep, the stick is formatted. Place into USB port by 12V socket.

V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it. Check your country Hyundai accessories store, not cheap.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.

Other
- The stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- There is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- The rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- The frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or internal partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along. Some owners have been trying to buy the larger drunk from other countries.

- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better, extend rubber pad or some have added pads.

- The driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- You can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car. Search for wheel specs.

- The car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- The auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course. The HDA2 that comes with the top trim works on only certain routes.

- You may hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- Check the manual for procedures to allow the car to stay in neutral when through a car wash (driver in or out of car).

- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds. These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires. Some cars have been delivered without adjustment of the tyre pressures by the dealer.

- It can be hard to see the setting buttons on the front of the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.

- If your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.

- If your trim is so equipped, folding side mirrors by pressing the button requires pressing it again on startup to unfold.

- If your trim is so equipped with auto folding side mirrors, folding them in manually requires them to be also folded out manually. Interior folding button will not work.

- Some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.

- Heat and AC will not work in Accessories mode.

- The upright small area of dash to the exterior side of steering wheel can hold a magnet. Some have used it to place phone or photos.

- You can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.


- Wait times for ordered cars is extremely long (2 years is common), particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues. By the way, what model year you have or will receive is a bit confusing.

- Those who have ordered an Ioniq 5 have likely also ordered other EV cars. Chances are your order position will improve as others decline a car because of having gotten a different EV.

- In some countries dealerships are asking above manufacturer’s suggested retail price.

- You can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.

- Changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.

Common Abbreviations
ACC = adoptive cruise control
ACC = accessories mode (car uses 12 V battery for lights, infotainment etc.)
ADAS = advanced (or autonomous) driver assistance system (Level 2)
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BCA = blind-spot collision avoidance assist
BEV = battery electric vehicle
BMS = battery Management System
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power
CRS = child restaint system
DAW = driver attention warning
DRL = day time running lamps (lights)
EMS = energy management system
EPB = electronic parking brake
ESC = electronic stability control
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
FCA = forward collision-avoidance assist
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HAC = hill-start assist brakes
HDA = highway driving assist
HUD = head up display (on top trims)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
ISLA = intelligent speed limit assist
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
Level 2 ADAS = Ioniq 5 can control steering and accelerating/decelerating but needs a driver
LFA = lane keeping assist
LKA = lane keeping assist
MSLA = manual speed limit assist
MY = model year (MY22, MY22.5, MY23)
OBD = on board diagnostics (OBD Bluetooth dongle)
OEM = original equipment manufacturer
PCA = reverse parking collision-avoidance assist
PDW = parking distance warning
POI = point of interest (a navigation destination)
RCCA = rear cross-traffic collision-avoidance assist
REGEN = regenerative braking, electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
REGEN Level = 0, 1, 2, 3, Auto (at bottom left of display, setting for amount of regen braking)
ROA = advanced rear occupant alert
RSPA = remote smart parking assist
RVM = rear view monitor
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SCC = smart cruise control
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
SVM = surround view monitor
TPMS = tyre (tire) pressure monitoring system
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)
VIN = vehicle identification number

This primer is updated regularly as new suggestions come along. Forum members and posts can dive deeper than here and help with other questions. Happy posting and searching.

Congratulations on your purchase or consideration of an Ioniq 5. Forums are places we come for help and for some, to vent. Conversations are skewed in those directions. The Ioniq 5 is a great car and will only get better.
 

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This is a primer This is a primer sticky for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully helpful advice and tips to questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all new Ioniq 5 owners. Also you will find postings of real-world experience with the car on YouTube much more helpful than car review sites.


Charging

- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature, if the car has been just driven at high speeds, and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp delivery).



Range

- the biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- the range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway).

- the car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance.

- the faster the driving the lower the range.

- there are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. Best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- setting climate to driver-only increases range a bit as does not using heat and AC

- using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating


Dead 12 V Battery

- yes the car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car.

- some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot.

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.




Others

- the stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- there is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- Yes the rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- yes the frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release of partitions. Hyundai opted against those.

- the rattle you here in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk or the seat belt insert hitting plastic of the interior. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior.

- Yes the infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- Yes the driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or SEL (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.

- yes you can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car.

- the car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automattically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- the auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well defined freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- Yes you will hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- you can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- yes wait times for ordered cars is extremely long, particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing.



Congratulations on you new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.


Congratulations on you new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.
Excellent!!
 

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Excellent!!
Would add to the 12V section, to not use the 'ACC' mode as that drains the 12v battery. When learning the car (i.e. inside and not driving), select the "utility" mode in the EV section (gear icon), or start the car with your foot on the brake pedal

Oh and check the pressure of your tires. I found mine set to 40 psi, when for the ultimate they should be at 34 psi. Supposedly they are shipped with high pressure to avoid the tire deforming. Depending on dealer, they may check or not before delivery to you ...
 

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Ioniq 5 72,6kWh RWD Lucid Blue
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-For the side view mirror to tilt down when reversing, leave the lever in either L or R position. Leaving it in "Neutral" will keep the mirrors horizontal when backing up.

-Take a backup of your settings using the Bluelink app (depending on market). The car might erase your settings randomly.

-OBDII(On Board Diagnostic 2) dongle is a good gadget to buy if you want to deep dive into your car's info. There are multiple threads on this forum, and videos on youtube to explain the how's and why's.

edit:
-If you're anxious for the 12V battery to deplete, buy one of these (or similar):
 

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Thanks for this! Some items I'd propose to add:

- Rattle from the rear. Another possible source is slight play or misalignment in the various bump stops for the hatch, which can result in the same squeak/cluck that plagued so many Kia Stingers. In the case of the stinger, a common solution was to add washers to the inset of some of the wedge-shaped stops. This isn't really an option on the I5 (well, mine at least) since those wedges have no recesses. Instead I found this effective, at least for the week I've had it on:

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Purchased here: foam pads. They are pretty inexpensive so even if they don't last, one pack of these should last a while.

- Pre-purchase inspection. Ask a service advisor or manager to confirm that the headlights have been properly aimed, which apparently involves dealer-specific equipment

- Charging tip for first timers. If the cable lock function is enabled, to remove the cable from the charging port, it will be necessary to unlock the car and pull out the cable within a few seconds. After a brief time, the cable lock will engage even if the doors are still unlocked.
 

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Ioniq 5 72,6kWh RWD Lucid Blue
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Thanks for this! Some items I'd propose to add:

- Rattle from the rear. Another possible source is slight play or misalignment in the various bump stops for the hatch, which can result in the same squeak/cluck that plagued so many Kia Stingers. In the case of the stinger, a common solution was to add washers to the inset of some of the wedge-shaped stops. This isn't really an option on the I5 (well, mine at least) since those wedges have no recesses. Instead I found this effective, at least for the week I've had it on:

View attachment 41448

Purchased here: foam pads. They are pretty inexpensive so even if they don't last, one pack of these should last a while.

- Pre-purchase inspection. Ask a service advisor or manager to confirm that the headlights have been properly aimed, which apparently involves dealer-specific equipment

- Charging tip for first timers. If the cable lock function is enabled, to remove the cable from the charging port, it will be necessary to unlock the car and pull out the cable within a few seconds. After a brief time, the cable lock will engage even if the doors are still unlocked.
If this is where I think it is, the part on the hatch is adjustable by screwing/unscrewing.
Try unscrewing it (for a bit greater length).
That improved the fit on my hatch, and stopped the rattling.
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Preferred (mid trim) Long Range RWD, winter tires
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Would add to the 12V section, to not use the 'ACC' mode as that drains the 12v battery. When learning the car (i.e. inside and not driving), select the "utility" mode in the EV section (gear icon), or start the car with your foot on the brake pedal

Oh and check the pressure of your tires. I found mine set to 40 psi, when for the ultimate they should be at 34 psi. Supposedly they are shipped with high pressure to avoid the tire deforming. Depending on dealer, they may check or not before delivery to you ...
Thanks. I have made changes.
 

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Thanks for this great list, I also learned things a month after buying!

One thing I would add, which maybe you all are aware of, but I just learned from one of the Ioniq Guy's youtube videos, is that some local power companies offer rebates on the purchase of your home Level 2 charger, but in the case of our power company (PNM), it had to be one from a certain list of approved ones. We had just bought a ChargePoint homeflex and much to my happy surprise we got $300 back on it by filing for the rebate with PNM. There wasn't any obvious advertising of this perk anywhere, you had to know to go look for it. Maybe this is too U.S. specific to go on your list, but I'd consider adding to your bullet, "There is no best level 2 charger for your home": "Check to see if your local power company offers rebates on a home level 2 charger because you might want to choose one from the list of approved ones".
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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yes the Bluelink can be very sluggish. The app features also differ between countries.
That's an understatement and a half! Canadian version seems near-useless. The status doesn't refresh (the refresh symbol has it spin for a while, then error out), I have honestly not been able to get a single feature of the app to function.

Frustrating since the UI and layout is so nice, but nothing seems to work. As I type this, my "status" is last reported yesterday afternoon at 4pm. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's an understatement and a half! Canadian version seems near-useless. The status doesn't refresh (the refresh symbol has it spin for a while, then error out), I have honestly not been able to get a single feature of the app to function.

Frustrating since the UI and layout is so nice, but nothing seems to work. As I type this, my "status" is last reported yesterday afternoon at 4pm. :(
I can understand your frustration. For me the basic functionality works such as locking, checking charge status, changing charge limit, even scheduling and setting climate and charging. It is annoying that the app keeps giving notifications to my phone though I cannot see why it is contacting me. I think it is when the doors are unlocked. I assume cell service to your car is decent.
 

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Cell service is fine, it's just... not working.

Coming from BMW, their app just "works"... send a destination to the car, unlock doors, etc. Seeing the UI and layout of the app, I was excited to try it, but so far, our experience has been that the BlueLink app is un-useable. :(
 

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This is a primer for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully helpful advice and tips to questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences with the car on YouTube much more helpful than on car review sites.

The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly find answers to your questions.


Charging
- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off.

- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed, but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to the optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).

- you can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). You can not charge yet at a Tesla Supercharger.


Range
- the biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- the range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), road surface, air temperature, wind speed and wind direction.

- the car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.

- temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.

- the faster the driving the lower the range.

- there are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as it does not use heat and AC.

- using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.

- depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating as well.


Dead 12 V Battery
- yes the car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.

- some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot. For some the car needed servicing to fix.

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.

- having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery

- power is always on to the USB port and 12V socket below the centre dash above the floor. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well).


Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Yes the infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- Yes the navigation system is very bad. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.

- if your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.

- there is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps AndroidPlay) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.

- yes the Bluelink can be very sluggish. The app features also differ between countries.


V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.


Other
- the stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- there is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- Yes the rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- yes the frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along.

- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better or some have added pads.

- Yes the driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- yes you can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car.

- the car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- the auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- Yes you will hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds or with excessive-high tire pressure (e.g., 40 psi instead of 34). These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires.

- yes it is hard to see the setting buttons on the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.

- if your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.

- some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.

- you can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- yes wait times for ordered cars is extremely long, particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues.

- you can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.

- changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.


Abbreviations
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BEV = battery electric vehicle
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power
EMS = energy management system
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
REGEN = regenerative braking. The electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)

This primer is updated regularly as new suggestions come along.

Congratulations on your new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.
Add that the V2L exterior adapter is not weather proof. There are some posts in this forum of folks taking it apart, and designing a weatherproof rubber covering
 

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Registered
2022 Ioniq 5 Preferred (mid trim) Long Range RWD, winter tires
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261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cell service is fine, it's just... not working.

Coming from BMW, their app just "works"... send a destination to the car, unlock doors, etc. Seeing the UI and layout of the app, I was excited to try it, but so far, our experience has been that the BlueLink app is un-useable. :(
I would think Hyundai Canada is able to check it can communicate with the car by BlueLink. That would at least rule out the Bluelink function is working in the car.
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Preferred (mid trim) Long Range RWD, winter tires
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261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Add that the V2L exterior adapter is not weather proof. There are some posts in this forum of folks taking it apart, and designing a weatherproof rubber covering
Is this the issue of ice forming at the adapter connection to charging port or is it inside the adapter itself? thanks
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD
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84 Posts
Cell service is fine, it's just... not working…but so far, our experience has been that the BlueLink app is un-useable. :(
While service from your cell phone provider is fine, do you know who the cell provider is for BlueLink? Do you know their service is fine at your home?


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