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I do not have my I5 yet (hopefully in a month or two), so I am just collecting information and thinking about speaker and amplifier upgrade options. No factory supplied OEM crossovers outside of the head unit (e.g. in the doors) is my understanding.

Reports here are that some owners believe there is full spectrum on some of the speaker wires (e.g. because of blocking capacitors on tweeters). I am always concerned about some kind of filtering / shaping inside of an OEM head unit, but have no first hand information yet. I guess there should be a way to play some tones from 20 Hz to 20 kHz and to watch the corresponding signal amplitude at the various speaker wires.
I've ran some RTA for the speakers and looks like there's not much bass roll-off happening at all. The vehicle is also sending out full spectrum on all speakers.



Anyone run active yet?

Most of my parts are starting to come in and have been trying to understand the vehicle.

Currently installed a subwoofer for now.

Would like to try to run my own separate speaker cables.
 

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Anyone run active yet?

Most of my parts are starting to come in and have been trying to understand the vehicle.

Currently installed a subwoofer for now.

Would like to try to run my own separate speaker cables.
There is a connector where there is usually just a wire loom between the door and the body. you would need to drill through the connector in the empty spots to get the wires through.

I'v been looking for the connector pins online, to keep it as stock as possible.
This is the connector MG657002-5 by KET
 

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There is a connector where there is usually just a wire loom between the door and the body. you would need to drill through the connector in the empty spots to get the wires through.

I'v been looking for the connector pins online, to keep it as stock as possible.
This is the connector MG657002-5 by KET

Yeah, that's what I'm trying to avoid. It looks more complicated to do a pinout than drill a hole but I'm with you in trying to keep it stock-looking.

It looks like the pin connector is listed on that PDF. Unfortunately, the company uses its own SKU, and will also start digging around.

I know someone on Reddit went active a little while back.

My plan is to keep this build as clean as possible so I will be building a quick disconnect amp rack aswell. Just not sure if I want to put the amps underneath the rear seats or in the false floor.
 

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Yeah, that's what I'm trying to avoid. It looks more complicated to do a pinout than drill a hole but I'm with you in trying to keep it stock-looking.

It looks like the pin connector is listed on that PDF. Unfortunately, the company uses its own SKU, and will also start digging around.

I know someone on Reddit went active a little while back.

My plan is to keep this build as clean as possible so I will be building a quick disconnect amp rack aswell. Just not sure if I want to put the amps underneath the rear seats or in the false floor.
I used the kicker key 200.4 as my amp and it sits very nicely under the front passenger carpet behind the glovebox.
 

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I used the kicker key 200.4 as my amp and it sits very nicely under the front passenger carpet behind the glovebox.
I saw your post and the information you've provided throughout have helped me/given me the motivation to build my own system.

Unfortunately, I will be running 2 amps and a DSP, so I have to run bigger power wires and fuses for the build.
 

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For a U.S. limited Bose I5, that Bass Brothers plug and play solution (Norway only) was interesting especially because of the premade harness with all of the speaker and Bose amp connectors.

I wonder if this harness (PUZU) could be adapted alone, for use use with other manufacturer amps? So, kind of semi-plug 'n play (cutting off the PUZU amp connector) with wires to the the connector that comes with the non-PUZU amp.
 
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