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Pioneers TS W
Oh man, I was thiking of installing a JL Powerwedge 10" under the seat. But I will have to measure the rear trunk if it can fit in there since the depth is 5". I managed to hear the kicker yesterday and it wasn't what I was looking for.

I've ordered the Hertz already and am thinking of just going with Audiocontrol D-4.800 Amp + DSP for the Hertz to keep it compact and also the Hertz are quite power hungry.
The underseat sub 8-10" sub options are overall underwhelming w the interior volume of the I5. I went w Audison 8" powered sub and it is in the trunk , removable if need be BUT it does not dissapoint at all, it provides me the bass and fill I need . Performs excellently. I had considered the 8 Pioneer TX WS130DA underseat option but knew I would be dissapointed. Glad I went w a real powered sub. Trunk space still plentiful.
 

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Pioneers TS W


The underseat sub 8-10" sub options are overall underwhelming w the interior volume of the I5. I went w Audison 8" powered sub and it is in the trunk , removable if need be BUT it does not dissapoint at all, it provides me the bass and fill I need . Performs excellently. I had considered the 8 Pioneer TX WS130DA underseat option but knew I would be dissapointed. Glad I went w a real powered sub. Trunk space still plentiful.
Yeah, I know I'm asking for too much with my request. Currently the JL powerwedge 10" is the slimmest I can find that would actually sound nice. I'm waiting for our car to arrive before I can make measurements on the trunk. It's 5" depth. I see that the Audison is a bit taller.
 

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Yeah, I know I'm asking for too much with my request. Currently the JL powerwedge 10" is the slimmest I can find that would actually sound nice. I'm waiting for our car to arrive before I can make measurements on the trunk. It's 5" depth. I see that the Audison is a bit taller.
The JL Audio option is a nice one , I considered it but my local shop did not have any powered units left any longer so I opted for the Audison unit. I had considered doing a custom floor so it could be mounted in the dead space but decided to just go w the removeable powered option and it was well worth it. I have yet to remove it for additional trunk space as I can stack stuff on top of it as I have it downfiring. Either way just don't settle for the compact underseat options as for real audiophiles I think it will be wasted cash
 

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The JL Audio option is a nice one , I considered it but my local shop did not have any powered units left any longer so I opted for the Audison unit. I had considered doing a custom floor so it could be mounted in the dead space but decided to just go w the removeable powered option and it was well worth it. I have yet to remove it for additional trunk space as I can stack stuff on top of it as I have it downfiring. Either way just don't settle for the compact underseat options as for real audiophiles I think it will be wasted cash

Yeah, I really don't want to half-ass my setup so I realized I'm going to get a different amplifier instead of the key 200.4

I was still thinking of getting the hertz and go for a Helix amp/dsp

I will still go for the JL active subwoofer but I really want to know how much room I'll have in the back. I really want to fit it in there.
 

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just got a Kicker 11hs8, it barely fits under the rear passenger side seat. the rear drives side has some kind of obstruction that makes it too tall. It will fit in the "hidden" area of the trunk. another possibility I didn't try is the area behind the rear seats there is a bit of room even with the rear seats all the way back.

FYI the bolts holding the HV panel on under the cargo area is not ground. I got 8vdc when I tested it. the bolts holding down the rear seats are ground.

FYI part 2
I took one of those cheap digital oscilloscopes to the output of the headunit, and it seem that it doesn't clip till you get to 65 or so on the volume. control. this was with both sine1khz and a sweep coming out of my iPhone via the usb input.


Good luck
I too noticed that if you want to hear all the sounds the volume should be set to 60. What happens if you just add a sub and its dedicated amp, will the overall sound be good?
 

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Hey guys, bought me a JL microwedge-powered sub.

Have a question about finding a source? Are the rear speaker wires sending out a full-range signal? Or is it better to tap into the front speaker for it?

Where did you guys connect your remote source for the remote signal?
 

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Here's an alternate configuration that I think works pretty well.

Front : these:
Reason: crutchfield thought they were the best for upgrading factory audio, and I didn't want to deal with the complexity of installing an amplifer under the dash.

Rear: these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J3QZ1ZQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details . Reason: to match the fronts.

Adapters:


Parts:

Procedure: I removed the front and rear door panels by following the procedure here:

It's kind of way harder to get it loose initially than it looks. Really tight, shame to loosen a little but the car still rides fine without rattles.
Hint: Have an electric screwdriver or impact driver
For the rears, I used the adapter ring and the adapter to the speaker wiring.
Hint: cut the soundskin in half lengthwise before inserting.
Hint: put the boom mat foam in and then put in the adapter ring.
Hint: you need extra screws, see above.

Rears were easy.

For the front, I did the wiring of:
adapter to the lower woofer -> input to the component box. I cut the adapter in half and solder/heatshrinked using a heat gun to audio speaker wire so the wire would reach.

The component box is hot glued to the inside of the outer door panel, through the speaker hole. A big huge glob of glue. I think this is stronger than VHB tape. Just make sure it all works before you install it, it may be difficult to remove. Use extra-long wires so you can test run the whole thing before installing it.

You do not need to damage or remove the moisture barrier. Don't be stupid - don't touch that. Insert the wires carefully for the tweeter through the top.

You don't need to make your own bracket - use a drill, not a dremel, and break the bracket loose from the tweeter. Just drill 2 holes where the glue inserts are.

Then I soldered to the tweeter wires with more heatshrink solder, and ran wires to the component box for the tweeter output. Black for negative. Same with the woofer.

And with all that it sounds pretty good. I cranked it to +3 on the bass because you know, this is a car, this ain't a concert hall. Volume level around 50, I have sensitive ears and this thumps decently well, obviously not as well as a dedicated sub.

Total cost:$60 (rear)
+ 8 + 11 + 10 + 10 (parts)
+ $214 (front, crutchfield)

And it did take me about 5 hours. About 3 were "learning", if I knew what I was doing initially it would have taken 2.

I think it's a pretty good deal. The other speakers everyone uses, the Focal Performance 165AS, you have to wire in an amplifier and that's a lot more complex and damages factory wiring. This install, I cut none of the factory wires. Only damage I did was each time you remove that door panel you probably loosen the pop in fasteners a tiny bit.
 

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Much appreciate the multitude of posters here which helped me tackle the DIY fronts.

If I may indulge you to please ask a few dumb questions on the component speaker front wiring of the crossover and/or resistors. Door panels are off, tweeters and 6.5” woofers mounted, Focal 165’s going into SE with no added amp (yet).

1) From above posts, it appears there is no existing OEM crossover and a capacitor is somewhere in the loom. Some appear to just use existing wiring/capacitor and largely plug and play in new aftermarket component speaker/tweeter. Others seem to add another capacitor at the positive tweeter wire. Is either or both of these correct? Does it result in janky sound or unsafe tweeter load?

2) While I would like to use the provided Focal crossover, I am reluctant to break into the heavily tape wrapped Hyundai door loom. It appears some just directly wire in the woofer to the lower woofer wires, and use the crossover mounted just between the tweeter and tweeter wire? Is this correct? In this case presume the woofer does not have any benefit of a high pass filter, does this create poor sound?

3) Best bet is to correctly wire in Focal crossover to both woofer and tweeter outputs with potentiall more wiring work opening up the loom. Any suggestions here or just suck it up and do it? Can anyone identify the existing HU input wire source somewhere on the loom?

Again, much appreciate all of your posts here, tremendous help. Cheers.
 

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Much appreciate the multitude of posters here which helped me tackle the DIY fronts.

If I may indulge you to please ask a few dumb questions on the component speaker front wiring of the crossover and/or resistors. Door panels are off, tweeters and 6.5” woofers mounted, Focal 165’s going into SE with no added amp (yet).

1) From above posts, it appears there is no existing OEM crossover and a capacitor is somewhere in the loom. Some appear to just use existing wiring/capacitor and largely plug and play in new aftermarket component speaker/tweeter. Others seem to add another capacitor at the positive tweeter wire. Is either or both of these correct? Does it result in janky sound or unsafe tweeter load?

2) While I would like to use the provided Focal crossover, I am reluctant to break into the heavily tape wrapped Hyundai door loom. It appears some just directly wire in the woofer to the lower woofer wires, and use the crossover mounted just between the tweeter and tweeter wire? Is this correct? Does the woofer not hae any benefit of a high pass filter then?

3) Best bet is to correctly wire in Focal crossover to both woofer and tweeter outputs with potentiall more wiring work opening up the loom. Any suggestions here or just suck it up and do it? Can anyone identify the existing HU input wire source somewhere on the loom?

Again, much appreciate all of your posts here, tremendous help. Cheers.
You are making this too complicated.

Hyundai sends unfiltered full spectrum audio to both the door tweeter and woofer. There is simply a split in the wiring somewhere, it's earlier in this thread as a diagram.

You thus have a trivial solution that involves no wiring damage. Using an adapter, Metra 72-7302 Speaker Wiring Harnesses, just :
(1) cut the adapter in half, so it's bare wires coming out and you have 2 wires with speaker spade posts.
(2) solder in, using a heat gun, https://www.amazon.com/140-Solder-Seal-Wire-Connectors/dp/B07JJ6YYKL
(3) wires to go from the hynundai woofer connector to the input of the crossover.
(4) then from the woofer output of the crossover, solder wire to the speaker space post wires so you can reach from the crossover to the woofer
(5) then from the tweeter output of the crossover, solder wire to the tweeter wires

So it's (unfiltered audio from hyundai) -> crossover
filtered bass from crossover -> woofer
filtered treble from crossover -> tweeter

The crossover goes inside the door. Unmount your woofer and stick the crossover inside there on the bare metal of the inside of the door. I used hot glue and VHB tape to secure it. Then run the wires - careful don't mount them where they touch sharp metal - and it'll work correctly and perfectly.

This is a fully reversible install - you can put back the factory spakers anytime you want and all the original wiring is untouched.
 

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Anyone tap into the rear passenger speaker? the information posted here is saying ORANGE and GRAY for the signal. I tapped into it but I'm getting weird sounds off of it. I tried the ORANGE GRAY/ORANGE wire and I'm getting weird signals off of it aswell. I don't know if I'm tapping onto the wrong wire but it's not working properly working.

Any guidance would be appreciaed.
 

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Anyone tap into the rear passenger speaker? the information posted here is saying ORANGE and GRAY for the signal. I tapped into it but I'm getting weird sounds off of it. I tried the ORANGE GRAY/ORANGE wire and I'm getting weird signals off of it aswell. I don't know if I'm tapping onto the wrong wire but it's not working properly working.

Any guidance would be appreciaed.
While I can't confirm the wire color note that you have a simple way to trace this. Check with a multimeter for connectivity between the pins of the speakers connector in the door and the wires you think are it in the wiring bundle you have exposed.

Also make sure the colors actually match - whatever color they are in the dood should be the same in the bundle. I assume you have exposed the one that is at the bottom on the passenger and driver sides.
 

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While I can't confirm the wire color note that you have a simple way to trace this. Check with a multimeter for connectivity between the pins of the speakers connector in the door and the wires you think are it in the wiring bundle you have exposed.

Also make sure the colors actually match - whatever color they are in the dood should be the same in the bundle. I assume you have exposed the one that is at the bottom on the passenger and driver sides.
Guess I'll try doing that since I never really removed the rear door pannels to check the connectors themselves.
 

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While I can't confirm the wire color note that you have a simple way to trace this. Check with a multimeter for connectivity between the pins of the speakers connector in the door and the wires you think are it in the wiring bundle you have exposed.

Also make sure the colors actually match - whatever color they are in the dood should be the same in the bundle. I assume you have exposed the one that is at the bottom on the passenger and driver sides.

So, from what was posted here in what I was following was that for the right rear passenger speaker, it's "ORANGE and GRAY". If you were to follow that line to the B pillar connection, it's actually BROWN/WHITE. The color changes along the door hinge connector.

So if anyone were to tap into the rear right passenger speaker, it's BROWN/WHITE and not ORANGE/GRAY
 

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So, from what was posted here in what I was following was that for the right rear passenger speaker, it's "ORANGE and GRAY". If you were to follow that line to the B pillar connection, it's actually BROWN/WHITE. The color changes along the door hinge connector.

So if anyone were to tap into the rear right passenger speaker, it's BROWN/WHITE and not ORANGE/GRAY
Downloaded this diagram some time back from an earlier thread into my I5 speaker folder. Some of the variants, last one for example, show the transition from brown/white to orange/gray, probably across connectors.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Number
 

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Thanks @Blucid!

According to these diagrams, does this mean there are no crossovers for the front door components?
I do not have my I5 yet (hopefully in a month or two), so I am just collecting information and thinking about speaker and amplifier upgrade options. No factory supplied OEM crossovers outside of the head unit (e.g. in the doors) is my understanding.

Reports here are that some owners believe there is full spectrum on some of the speaker wires (e.g. because of blocking capacitors on tweeters). I am always concerned about some kind of filtering / shaping inside of an OEM head unit, but have no first hand information yet. I guess there should be a way to play some tones from 20 Hz to 20 kHz and to watch the corresponding signal amplitude at the various speaker wires.
 
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