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Hi there, wondering if anyone has attempted to upgrade the factory speakers in the standard (non-Bose) Ioniq 5. Any information on what size they are? I want to know if it will do any good to take the nice aftermarket speakers out of my old car before I trade it in.
 

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One thing you could try: post two ads for your old car, one with the upgraded audio, one without with a price differential to match. See which one gets the hits. If the ad for the upgrades gets you more $ it might be worthwhile to leave them in the car. If not, put back the original audio if you still have it and sell it that way. However, I would imagine if you are using that car as a trade in, a dealer wouldn't care one way or the other as few upgrades are worth paying for from their perspective. Private sale, could make a difference.
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD Cyber Gray
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The doors are 6.5 and the rears are 6.5 as well or at least that is what I have seen people getting for the rears.

I ordered 6.5 components and 6.5 for the rear and an amp to power them, getting installed early April.
 

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The doors are 6.5 and the rears are 6.5 as well or at least that is what I have seen people getting for the rears.

I ordered 6.5 components and 6.5 for the rear and an amp to power them, getting installed early April.
Can you let me know which are the ones you ordered? Any chance of knowing if the base (non-Bose) has an amp like that is shown in the video (installed under rear seat)?
 

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Hi there, wondering if anyone has attempted to upgrade the factory speakers in the standard (non-Bose) Ioniq 5. Any information on what size they are? I want to know if it will do any good to take the nice aftermarket speakers out of my old car before I trade it in.
I believe 6.5, what would do put in a amp plus the splitter and a sub woofer plus install your up to $1500 I don't know how good new speakers would sound with just the head unit that's there. I myself am not crazy about the Tec at best buy mucking with my new electric car
 

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2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5, Preferred Long Range RWD, 77.4 kWH, Phantom Black
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The rear OEM speaker is actually an odd 5.9" speaker.

 

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Just replaced the front door speakers and added some Dynamat. Got everything from Crutchfield including the tool to pry off the panels. Suggestion, put some tape on the back of the pry tool to avoid any scratches.

Tweeters: Hertz C 26 OE
6.5": Memphis Audio MJP6

Tweeters were easy to install. The plastic cover pops off pretty easily. Added the bass blockers inline.

To replace the 6.5s first there are 2 screws on the door panel you need to remove. One is recessed under the armrest and the other is on the side under a small panel you pry open. Start at the bottom of the door where there is a recess to start prying off the panel. There are 3 electrical connections that you need to disconnect after the panel is loose.

The 6.5" is a little tricky. The original speakers have 3 screws, not 4, and are spaced wider than a 6.5" speaker. I created 3 plastic clamps using the adapter rings that were included in the install kit. Ran foam around the back edge of the speaker and clamped it down.

I didn't want to mess with adding an amp. The sound quality is excellent how. Crisp, clean, nice firm bass, and no distortion. The tweeter made a huge improvement in sound quality. I installed the 6.5s a few days later and was amazed at how much it also cleaned up the sound quality. The original speakers are very, very poor quality.

I used a sound level meter on my iPhone to compare the new front speakers to the still original back speakers. The average output is about 9-10db louder at the same volume level. The key spec I looked for was the speaker sensitivity as the higher the number the higher the sound level with the same input.

The Hertz tweeter sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 92
The Memphis 6.5" sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 100

Next, I'm going to replace the rears with 6.5" 2 ways. Not sure which ones yet.
 

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Just replaced the front door speakers and added some Dynamat. Got everything from Crutchfield including the tool to pry off the panels. Suggestion, put some tape on the back of the pry tool to avoid any scratches.

Tweeters: Hertz C 26 OE
6.5": Memphis Audio MJP6

Tweeters were easy to install. The plastic cover pops off pretty easily. Added the bass blockers inline.

To replace the 6.5s first there are 2 screws on the door panel you need to remove. One is recessed under the armrest and the other is on the side under a small panel you pry open. Start at the bottom of the door where there is a recess to start prying off the panel. There are 3 electrical connections that you need to disconnect after the panel is loose.

The 6.5" is a little tricky. The original speakers have 3 screws, not 4, and are spaced wider than a 6.5" speaker. I created 3 plastic clamps using the adapter rings that were included in the install kit. Ran foam around the back edge of the speaker and clamped it down.

I didn't want to mess with adding an amp. The sound quality is excellent how. Crisp, clean, nice firm bass, and no distortion. The tweeter made a huge improvement in sound quality. I installed the 6.5s a few days later and was amazed at how much it also cleaned up the sound quality. The original speakers are very, very poor quality.

I used a sound level meter on my iPhone to compare the new front speakers to the still original back speakers. The average output is about 9-10db louder at the same volume level. The key spec I looked for was the speaker sensitivity as the higher the number the higher the sound level with the same input.

The Hertz tweeter sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 92
The Memphis 6.5" sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 100

Next, I'm going to replace the rears with 6.5" 2 ways. Not sure which ones yet.
Great to know. Would you be able to share any pictures? Any chance you have the information for factory power and impedance setup? I dont want to require and add an amp, so looking for some good mid level setup.

I was recommended Focal ISU 165 and ICU 165 (rear) for the vehicle. Would appreciate any details or comments
 

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Didn't take any pictures, but I will take a couple when I do the backs.

I made part of my decision based on the reviews on Crutchfield. They seem to be authentic and it doesn't look like they filter out bad reviews. They have Focal speakers there also so you can compare. Check the '1W at 1 meter ' specs, the higher the number speaker puts out more sound per watt.

I think getting high-quality tweeters for the front is money well spent. The Dynamat is expensive. Cost almost as much as the speakers. I think if it is not used when you have some actual bass the door might rattle without it.
 

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Didn't take any pictures, but I will take a couple when I do the backs.

I made part of my decision based on the reviews on Crutchfield. They seem to be authentic and it doesn't look like they filter out bad reviews. They have Focal speakers there also so you can compare. Check the '1W at 1 meter ' specs, the higher the number speaker puts out more sound per watt.

I think getting high-quality tweeters for the front is money well spent. The Dynamat is expensive. Cost almost as much as the speakers. I think if it is not used when you have some actual bass the door might rattle without it.
Thanks for the info. Did you do inline crossover or a separate one?
I plan to do it myself and wondering what kind of wiring (wire connections) was needed?
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD Cyber Gray
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Just replaced the front door speakers and added some Dynamat. Got everything from Crutchfield including the tool to pry off the panels. Suggestion, put some tape on the back of the pry tool to avoid any scratches.

Tweeters: Hertz C 26 OE
6.5": Memphis Audio MJP6

Tweeters were easy to install. The plastic cover pops off pretty easily. Added the bass blockers inline.

To replace the 6.5s first there are 2 screws on the door panel you need to remove. One is recessed under the armrest and the other is on the side under a small panel you pry open. Start at the bottom of the door where there is a recess to start prying off the panel. There are 3 electrical connections that you need to disconnect after the panel is loose.

The 6.5" is a little tricky. The original speakers have 3 screws, not 4, and are spaced wider than a 6.5" speaker. I created 3 plastic clamps using the adapter rings that were included in the install kit. Ran foam around the back edge of the speaker and clamped it down.

I didn't want to mess with adding an amp. The sound quality is excellent how. Crisp, clean, nice firm bass, and no distortion. The tweeter made a huge improvement in sound quality. I installed the 6.5s a few days later and was amazed at how much it also cleaned up the sound quality. The original speakers are very, very poor quality.

I used a sound level meter on my iPhone to compare the new front speakers to the still original back speakers. The average output is about 9-10db louder at the same volume level. The key spec I looked for was the speaker sensitivity as the higher the number the higher the sound level with the same input.

The Hertz tweeter sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 92
The Memphis 6.5" sensitivity is - 1W at 1 meter = 100

Next, I'm going to replace the rears with 6.5" 2 ways. Not sure which ones yet.
What trim level Ioniq5 do you have?
Did Crutchfield provide adaptors for the speakers or did you have to cut and splice?
So the tweeters attached with the stock fasteners?
Which bass blockers did you use?

Sorry for all the questions. I have a Limited and disappointed with the sound quality of the Bose (I replaced all the speakers on my MDX with the factory Bose - they were lousy too) and reading your post is very tempting to change out the stock tweeters and door speakers.

Don’t want to go the add an amp route so finding speakers that can be driven by the factory amp is important.

Thanks
 

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I5 LR RWD> RIP-Audi S4
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I found substantial improvement of front speakers w Audison APK 165P components. I am going to replace the rear factory w Audison Prima 165's which are a oem designed replacement also will add Soundmat deadener, it is well worth it. Finally will get to Audison DSP Amplifier and custom shallow sub. I agree w OP, a quality set of compoentns for those of us w base stereo in itself made a large difference.
 

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I found substantial improvement of front speakers w Audison APK 165P components. I am going to replace the rear factory w Audison Prima 165's which are a oem designed replacement also will add Soundmat deadener, it is well worth it. Finally will get to Audison DSP Amplifier and custom shallow sub. I agree w OP, a quality set of compoentns for those of us w base stereo in itself made a large difference.
May I ask how much the front component speakers cost?
Looks like pricey in the USA (for whee it can be found)
 

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Didn't take any pictures, but I will take a couple when I do the backs.

I made part of my decision based on the reviews on Crutchfield. They seem to be authentic and it doesn't look like they filter out bad reviews. They have Focal speakers there also so you can compare. Check the '1W at 1 meter ' specs, the higher the number speaker puts out more sound per watt.

I think getting high-quality tweeters for the front is money well spent. The Dynamat is expensive. Cost almost as much as the speakers. I think if it is not used when you have some actual bass the door might rattle without it.
Did you get the 3 screw to 4 screw adaptor from Crutchfield? They still don't have ioniq 5 as a "see if it fits" vehicle selector.
 

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Did you get the 3 screw to 4 screw adaptor from Crutchfield? They still don't have ioniq 5 as a "see if it fits" vehicle selector.
Yes, they don't have an adapter specifically for the Ioniq 5. They included the HKSB110 adapters at no charge with the speaker purchase. I cut the adapter to create clamps for the 3 screws. It worked fine. I also used 2 rows of the foam strips that were part of the installation kit ($5) on the back of the speaker to seal it well and make sure it didn't rattle. Eye glass accessory Sleeve Rectangle Automotive exterior Eyewear
 
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