I had a 28kWh Ioniq for just over 4 years and bought a used 38 in May. I checked the state of health with a Bluetooth odb2 dongle and the EVNotify App (app needs to be set to read data from a Kona to work) before committing to purchase. It was a 12k mile example on a 70 plate, and only 26 months old so had 100% SOH.

It's easily able to give me 170 miles on a charge since I've owned it and I'd have no worries expecting it to do your commute in -5°C. So far averaging 5.4 miles per kWh and not really trying that hard.

Just check the SOH before buying. I get the impression that a decent majority of Ioniqs, even those with fairly high mileages have 100% SOH, or not far off it. The battery has a considerable top and bottom buffer by all accounts so, I'd even be happy with a 100k mile car showing 95% SOH and still be confident doing your commute for 2 years.

 

I had a 28kWh Ioniq for just over 4 years and bought a used 38 in May.

How do you find the dump in range? On paper like 33% more, it that showin IRL too?

I find my 28 going anywhere from 80-150miles depending on weather, with sort of 110miles as a yearly average. Does that reflect your findings and again how does it apply to the 38?

Thanks

 

If you assumed you only had 34 kWhs, leaving 4 for luck, then to drain it in 104 miles, you'd have to get just 3 miles per kWh. I think that's pretty much unheard of in any sensibly driven Ioniq.

I vote: "Go for it. You'll be fine and enjoy driving it much more than you expect."

 

If you assumed you only had 34 kWhs, leaving 4 for luck, then to drain it in 104 miles, you'd have to get just 3 miles per kWh. I think that's pretty much unheard of in any sensibly driven Ioniq.

I agree, I'm currently averaging 5.6 mi/kWh, even in the winter in mixed motorway and city driving I get very high 4's if not low 5's, I also drive in normal mode have all the creature comforts on and keep up with traffic.

 

Thanks, this is so helpful. Really appreciate it.Do you have any advice or links to guides of what to look out for on a used Ioniq electric? I am based in London so would be very happy to get a specialist to check a car over before buying, any recommendations?

 

Get an OBDII dongle (I use Viecar 4.0) and free android app EvWatchdog. Check all the cells are within 0.2V of each other. See this thread for gory details.
A poor show

If the cell differences are 0.4V, maybe they haven't been balanced up for a while, so I'd want the seller to charge the car right to 100% on a 7kW Type-2 AC charger (Not a Rapid, BMS balancing may not happen on those, I can't be sure, but it definitely DOES happen on 100% SOC charge on an AC charger) and then read the cell voltages & differences.
Cell voltage should probably match the ones I posted, but there has been a BMS upgrade since then, so coulf be some tiny difference. You're also looking for close-to 100% SOH (state of health) but its a bit hard to make sense of some of the readings in these apps!

If the cell voltage differences (should be 0.2V max after a BMS balance) are 0.4V it might be ok, suggests a bit of degradation. O.6V or more I'd walk away.
CarScanner is another app, more detailed but a tad harder to setup & use.

Range at 100% SOC at this time of year should be at least 160 miles. Anything less, the guy's been caning it I reckon! 150 miles might be ok I suppose, never seen it that low myself! I reckon on 170-180 in winter, 200-210 summer.

 

Range at 100% SOC at this time of year should be at least 160 miles. . . . . I reckon on 170-180 in winter, 200-210 summer.

I sometimes manage higher figures on an extended journey, but my stress level isn't good below 20% remaining.

 

Any and all advice appreciated. Thank you

Might be an idea to check on service history, and remaining warranty on the car from Hyundai, get it in writing if you can.
There are currently two outstanding service campaigns on my Ioniq, one for the refill coolant issue and the other for the SOS unit software update. There was also a BMS update in 2021 that addressed the 12V flat battery issue that was applied to my Ioniq.
So, it might be worth checking with Hyundai for any outstanding service campaigns.
There are many threads on this forum detailing all of the concerns raised with this model.

 

I spoke to Hyundai Customer Service (phone number on the website - very helpful) to check the status of the manufacturer warranty as the service history didn't "appear" perfect (I think it was a pre-reg car that sat in storage for a few months before delivery to a lease customer). I think this might be safer than relying on the say so of a motor trader, though I'd be happy if it was a franchised Hyundai dealer, but as Leafocaster says, "get it in writing".

Make sure the AC charging cable and the "Granny charger" are included and working.

Otherwise, I think you don't have to treat it any differently to another car. Test drive and check it over with a careful eye. Using the AA or similar to do an inspection is always an option if you want more peace of mind.

 

I sometimes manage higher figures on an extended journey, but my stress level isn't good below 20% remaining.

I'm not as hard core as you and start looking for chargers when my battery soc drops anywhere below 30%

 

if we can eliminate the charging stop after 100miles and do the full trip to the destination it sort of removes my need for DC charging at all.

Yes, exactly that. I was worried about losing the better DC charge rate of the 28, but unless you are doing the 1000km Challenge (or similar length journeys), it doesn't matter so much. So far, I have found that (at least in summer) the DC charge rate on my 38 has been fast enough. I'd like it to be more like 70kW, but I've seen 48 kW and it didn't drop as early as I thought. The extra starting range makes up for it for my use case.

 

Wow thanks guys for all of these helpful replies. Really great to hear that the range is so reliable and impressive. @VERYblue28 can you also ask about outstanding recalls / service issues such as the coolant issues and sos service thing on the Hyundai Customer Service line?

Somewhat unrelated, how do you guys find the ACC and lane keep assist in poor visibility i.e. rain or dark?

 

@VERYblue28 can you also ask about outstanding recalls / service issues such as the coolant issues and sos service thing on the Hyundai Customer Service line?

I'm not sure but it's possible. I've seen someone post a URL on the forum before that can be used to check for recalls though. I don't think it confirms if any are outstanding on a particular vehicle (just if it's affected) but I checked it after purchase. I think I still need the SOS button recall doing. Must check that.

You probably need the VIN number for checking recalls, if memory serves.

 

I like ACC, works well. LKK is a pain, doesn't cope with slip lanes/access lanes, any temp lines to do with roadworks/narrow lanes have it tugging at the wheel. Driving down country lanes with it on is dangerous imho - pull onto the verge to let oncoming past, and it tries to tug you back into the road as oter car goes past! I always turn it off.

Recalls - see here. Check if a vehicle, part or accessory has been recalled

 

I've seen someone post a URL on the forum before that can be used to check for recalls though. I don't think it confirms if any are outstanding on a particular vehicle (just if it's affected) but I checked it after purchase. I think I still need the SOS button recall doing. Must check that.

You probably need the VIN number for checking recalls, if memory serves.

Check your VIN here

 

To answer the original question, I have an Ioniq and yes you´ll make it comfortably.

These cars don´t suffer range degradation much. Perhaps you can check the state of health with a dongle when you buy but if you had one with any significant range loss at under 80,000 miles that would be really bad luck. Mine is at just over 53,000km and the state of health has just this month dropped from 100.0% to 99.4%.

 

Where you need lane keep aka in turns the lines are worn away so the car can't help. I went for the Comma 2 and it drives the car with no markings, in snow, gravel roads etc. No hands on wheel ever... It's an awesome device and my next car must also be compatible with an aftermarket autopilot.

Sorry only in Swedish, but scan through it, at 4min20sec for example.... does quite well.

 

Good evening,

New to the forum it has been a really useful source of info as I plan my first EV purchase.

I am very keen on the 38kwh Ioniq and will be using it for a daily commute of 52miles to and from work (104 total). Will be driving from London to Cambridge UK. Mix of 70mph, 60mph and 50mph roads. Weather is from around -2 degrees centigrade on coldest winttter days to 30 degrees centigrade on warmest.

I plan to do this commute for just under 2 years and need to be able to rely on a single charge to get me there and back.

1. Can I rely on a used Ioniq being able to reliably do this?

2. What kind of battery degredation / state of health would be reasonable whisky still being able to commute this distance on a single charge?

Any and all advice appreciated. Thank you

I suggest to keep the car plugged in over night in the colder months and preheat the cabin. this I find helps wake up the battery pack in the winter and make the car more efficient at the start. I notice a 1 to 2 mile per KW drop if the batteries aren't warm at the start.