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Discussion Starter #1
I have been selecting the "Auto" mode and seem to get excellent combined battery and ICE efficiency. What, exactly is the car doing in Auto Mode? Many thanks.
 

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At the risk of being called cheeky, who knows, who cares? You’re getting excellent results, do you need to know more?

Get in, drive and enjoy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, just interested in the technology. The EV and HEV settings are obvious. Curious only about Auto.
 

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I would think the car selects the most suitable mode based on SOC available and power required i.e. plenty of battery on a flat road it goes to EV , very steep hill or foot to the floor ,ICE kicks in ( assisted by battery ) . Much like Smart Cruise Control on the hybrid .
 

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chunga68 - thanks, that is what I suspected. does the manufacturer have a written explanation os the Auto mode? I may contact HMA customer service to see if they can advise!
 

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So there are a lot of algorithms in this car and the best explanation will be very general. The auto mode is for someone who doesn't want hands on control over EV use. You can beat the auto algorithm with smart mode switching, but the average driver will probably do better with auto. Same goes for cruise control. Let the car do its thing. If you want to learn smart mode switching and hypermiling, tons of info here and on the internet.
 

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I had the same question...not sure of what the difference between Hybrid/Auto were (EV mode is straight forward). The hybrid portion of the manual Owners manuals online (ae hev, phev can-e system intro.pdf.....pg H32/33) doesn't elaborate much. Haven't seen anything on their site that explains more.

They refer to:
EV as CD (charge depleting, electric)...uses the battery to drive the car
Auto as CD and CS auto selected as road conditions dictate
Hybrid as CS (charge sustaining, Hybrid)...both batt and ICE is used to drive the vehicle

And...that's all they say about it...LOL

As best as we can tell (in our PHEV):
...if we select Hybrid we tend to end up sustaining/conserving what battery charge there is throughout the drive (not 100% of whatever it started with...but more than leaving it in Auto). During the drive the motor will run/stop, EV will come on/off...but the charge in the batt doesn't drop off as much. I'm sure that the engine is running a bit more to do all that...but if we're aiming to do an "EV only" portion later on then we'll select Hybrid to do that. From what we've seen...if we're in hybrid, it will not charge up the battery (e.g. if batt is at 20% and we set it to Hybrid...it might fluctuate around 20% but even after a decent bit of a drive it won't raise the battery charge up to >20-21%)
...if we select Auto...the engine will run/stop, EV will come on/off and the battery will tend to get used up more (e.g. will have less batt available for the commute home). It's hard to tell, but I think it tries to use the battery more whenever it thinks best...and I think that it puts power back to the battery as it thinks is best.

We will need to watch mileage numbers for both modes for longer but it seems like we get better mileage when using Auto vs Hybrid + "flip to EV to try and use it up for the last part of the drive". The cold affects it a good bit so we need to observe it for more trips in different conditions.

Both hybrid and auto are delivering great numbers...especially when we are conscious to put it to EV to run out the battery for (typically the last) part of the drive/commute.
 

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You get the best bang for your charge dollar by manually restricting EV mode to low speed (city) driving, typically at the beginning and end of trips. The only caveat is ideally you have zero EV range remaining when you pull into your home or work charger at the end of a trip (with sufficient charge time before your next trip). To do so on some trips may require using EV mode at highway speeds.

Simple enough. Do that, and you should be able to beat auto mode efficiency over the long term.
 

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Im guessing one thing hev is utulizing is peak efficcieny of the ice. Maybe this is at 1500-2000 rpm with high load. Hev avoids light running of ice.
 

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With the colder weather we've been doing Hybrid to start each trip/commute, and warming up the interior while it's in that mode (not super toasty, just comfortable/defogged/etc...) and then turning it off for the drive, then when the remainder of the commute is about the same as the EV range we switch to EV mode. Then charge and do the same on the trip back. The typical commute is 107km each way (ugggh….hopefully that ends soon)...nearly all highway driving (speed limit 100km/h...light-ish traffic at the times we're commuting). During the commute...if the windows fog, the defroster/heat goes on for as long as it takes to clear it up nicely and then it's shut off again, usually just a couple of mins.

So far, the daily 220km of commuting this way is averaging 2.9L/100KM. Auto ends up a little higher. Not sure if this is "the best" way to do it but it's far exceeding our expectations for fuel economy( especially considering that it's winter/etc.)
 

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You can probably deduce sort-of what the "AUTO" is doing by looking at the graphic display of where the car is taking energy from (battery, engine) and where it's going (to the wheels, the battery). By looking at this display and comparing it to what your current speed is, are you going up/downhill, etc. maybe it's possible to get a sense of the algorithm for the behavior.

Having observed quite a bit how the hybrid and sport mode works in the previous model it would have been very interesting to know how the AUTO mode works, and perhaps get some tips on how to best drive the previous model as well.
 
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