@stressless-1
…it is crucial to avoid jump-starting the vehicle, despite any challenges faced by the tow operator.

In the event that the operator requires a jump start, they should be advised to use a temporary 12V battery to start the vehicle. This process involves removing the terminals from the vehicle's battery, ensuring that the affected vehicle battery remains intact and the terminals of the 12V battery are also disconnected.

Would anyone needing to get their car going or towed actually do any of this? Seems very doubtful to me; I know for certain I would not.

 

So true. there is a threshold for pain based on price. If I had $1000.00, I would be willing to put up with this non-sense. But after paying $60K, no!

 

Had the same situation and after the third time (2 recalls, ICCU replaced twice, new battery) and then finally a week at the dealer, they said to change my PW which would sign me off of all of those programs. Two that I knew were polling the car were from recurrent (per other posts, recurrent no longer polls often--who knows) and from my electric company. No problems now for two months. Installed the BM2 and monitored the activity and pretty much agree with just about everything I see on these posts. Got a email from my utility asking me to grant them access to my car via Hyundai PW. Low and behold, every hour the car was getting polled and saw a dip in my voltage and a short recharge cycle. After 10 or so of these cycles, then a major recharge occurred. Anyway, I then changed my PW and the polling stopped and battery activity is "normal". I will deal with the utility company at a later date. I had about 8 different charging system apps on my phone when this all started and I don't know which if any may have also been polling the car. I will monitor and install one app at a time and dump the bad ones. BUT having said all that--Positive--The dealer has been good--Negative--Terrible situation in the first place---Poor design/software or whatever---You have all this power available for the traction motor and you cant figure a way to utilize it??? POOR! If it wasn't for the fact that I love my 24 Ioniq 5 AWD, I would have filed a lemon lawsuit. Hopefully all of this is behind me. I feel for all those going thru the same.

 

I just worked through the dreaded dead 12V today, 1st time in 9 months with the car, and all recall updates are applied.

Called AAA to get a jump as my jump pack was in the trunk (smart move there Rob), AAA said they had nobody that could jump start an EV! So I put in a request through Hyundai, they called and said AAA claims they don't have anyone in the area who can jump start EVs. Ugh! Seems some serious education is needed!

A friend dropped by with a 12V charger that had a jump start capability, bam! Good as new. Drove to the Auto Zone to have the battery tested, it was 100% charged and read healthy. I guess 10-15 miles of driving is all that is needed?

Lesson learned, the jump pack is going in the frunk, or maybe center console.

 

I just worked through the dreaded dead 12V today, 1st time in 9 months with the car, and all recall updates are applied.

Called AAA to get a jump as my jump pack was in the trunk (smart move there Rob), AAA said they had nobody that could jump start an EV! So I put in a request through Hyundai, they called and said AAA claims they don't have anyone in the area who can jump start EVs. Ugh! Seems some serious education is needed!

A friend dropped by with a 12V charger that had a jump start capability, bam! Good as new. Drove to the Auto Zone to have the battery tested, it was 100% charged and read healthy. I guess 10-15 miles of driving is all that is needed?

Lesson learned, the jump pack is going in the frunk, or maybe center console.

Something seems amiss here. Dead 12v but tested healthy? AGM or flooded lead acid? If the latter, killing it once usually is not fully recoverable. Any insight as to why the 12v died on you?

 

I have a 2023 I5 SEL and started having 12V problems after a few months of ownership. Over 3 separate dealer visits, I had the software updates installed and a new 12V battery, all to no avail. Finally, on my 3rd visit, it was determined there was a trickle leak through the dash instrument control console. They replaced the whole unit ( under warranty) and for 3 months now, no 12V driving issues.My car starts very day. Good luck with yours.

 

Did the dealer specify the fuse position controlling the instrument control console?

 

I have a Kia EV6...with the same problem. The supposed software fix was done months ago. The 12 volt crapped out/dealer(s) replaced batteries...after 2 weeks of monitoring, the "fix" was to change my password on the Kia app. Another week of monitoring at the dealership...they say it should be ok. Assuming so, the problem is that, given the theory is that 3rd party apps (presumably the numerous ones I have for route planning/charger availability) are the problem, they don't know which ones are ok or not ok. Just nuts....Kia (and Hyundai/Genesis) should AT LEAST be able to say which apps don't cause a problem; and there should be a gauge in the car that indicates the charge level on the 12 volt.

 

I have a 2024 I5 (about 14 months old, about 21K miles) and the 12V battery just went dead on me. I was able to start the car with a 12V jumper pack, thanks to all the advice on this website. I had a BM2 on the battery at the time. The car was parked, in my garage. From the BM2 plot I see an ICCU charge around 1:30 am, then some pulses from 2 occasions I drove the car (about 8:30am, then 2pm). Then, about 2.5 hours after the car was in the garage, the battery started dipping and went down below 9.0V in the BM2 plot. Later, when I went to use the car at 8PM, the BM2 was reading about 4V. The time from 12.17v down to 9.0v was about 20 minutes, which seems to hint that something was drawing a lot of power, and in a chicken and egg situation, the ICCU couldn't come on to bring it back up

 

I have a 2023 AWD Limited w/26000 miles. The battery died three times on me last week so I took it to the dealer. The dealer told me there is an issue with the Front Motor relay (possible fire hazard) and they were keeping the car to replace the relay and the battery since it is still under warranty. They believe the front motor relay is the issue. There is another system they are replacing and it is under the back seat, I will call the dealer and find the name of the second part that is being replaced and update this post on 27 May 2025. So for now I am driving a gas loaner which I am not too happy about since I own an electric vehicle for a reason. This is the first major issue I have had so far, the ICCU was replaced within the first year of ownership. FYI, battery died the first time when I was sitting on the back tail gate for two hours and forgot to put the vehicle in utility mode, so I thought this was the cause for the battery issue, apparently not. The last two battery issues was when I left the car plugged in overnite and went to drive it and it was dead. Two days later I am at the gym and I come out to a dead battery, got to the gym without issue, so that is when I decided to go to the dealer. I never noticed the battery light come on since the first issue.

 

It sounds like they might be replacing the ICCU again. IIRC, it's under the back seat.

If your flooded PbA 12V battery has died even once, it's suffered permanent damage, and should be replaced. I recommend doing so with an AGM PbA, which handles deep discharges much better.