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Ioniq Electric 38KWh
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Yes. You can turn some of those off. Mine has all those notifications and the 12v battery has always been fine on my 38 Ioniq.

I'd try resetting everything to default factory settings and remove anything that's plugged in.
 

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Ioniq 2020 Premium SE
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58 Posts
My dealer did a test with my USB stick and USB phone charge leads left plugged in they didn't give any drain so aren't implicated. The pattern suggests an intermittent drain. I got the car in Feb, everything was fine til August, no significant change in how I used the car or Bluelink in that time. Then it failed 3 times in 2 weeks, had a new battery fitted after fail no2, then failed 2 days later fail no 3.
 

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Ioniq 2020 Premium SE
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My battery failed again yesterday for the fourth time, despite me uninstalling blue link about a month ago, immediately after I got the car back after the third 12 volt failure.
Interesting thing this time was that when I came to the (dead) car (12 volt battery was at 7 volts), the drivers side doors were both locked and the passenger side doors were unlocked, all doors were closed. There mirrors were out despite me being 99 percent sure I had locked the car the previous night.
When I did have Bluelink up and running I used to get lots of doors not closed error messages.
Car is in the dealers now. Hoping against hope there is some sort of problem with the door locking which is sometimes keeping some part of the car awake and is also flashed as an error code. The mechanic is also talking to Hyundai tech dept.
 

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If the car senses the door is open, it likely runs in an awake mode. Do the interior lights shut off after half a minute or so after closing the doors?

Measuring vampire loads on a vehicle is dead simple. I'm surprised dealers don't check that when people complain of the battery dying too often.
 

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Ioniq 2020 Premium SE
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Hi, yes the lights switch off. I'm hoping the car thinks the door is open and keeps something awake. It's replicating the fault when it's in the dealer that's the issue. The last time the car was in the dealer about 10 days and no fault occurred. The first 3 times this happened to me, the AA measured a vampire drain after boosting the car back to life of I think around 2 amps they didn't pin down what exactly was causing it, but when it got to the dealer for investigation that drain had unfortunately disappeared.
This 4th time (one month after the 3rd time), after the AA had boosted the car back to life there was no significant drain (~0.2-0.3 amps). Intermittent problems are the worst.
 

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0.2 amps is a significant drain. I'm not sure what it should be, but I don't think anything above about 0.05 for a car that is off and doors closed for several minutes is normal. 0.2 is about 4x more than I would expect, then again I don't own any vehicles that have a cellular chip in it.

A standard 50 Ah battery would be drained flat in 10 days of sitting with a 0.2A drain.
 

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Ioniq 2020 Premium SE
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58 Posts
You could well be correct I don't know what's normal. However, I saw somewhere on here or another forum that testing showed that the use of the battery saver actually boosted the drain possibly into the 0.25 amp range. However I've never seen evidence that my battery saver is or has been working, although it is definitely ticked as a option in the menu. The dealer told me last time it was 'working'. Again, from what I've read, the battery saver appears to be akin to baling out a boat holed below the water line with a bucket not 24/7 but only a few hours a day for a limited no of days. Sooner or later when the baling stops for a short time for whatever reason and a phantom drain occurs at the wrong time it's game over.
 

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So I got my car back, hopefully it’s fixed! This time the car did log error messages which the dealers could read. When the 12v died this time, the passenger side doors were unlocked whilst the drivers side were locked. Also the previous Bluelink messages I was getting saying ;’doors unlocked’ were likely consistent with that, as when I got the messages I just looked out the window at the car on the driveway and saw the mirrors were folded in, then I assumed the doors were locked. I didn’t go out and physically try them.
Anyway, there was water getting onto connecting pins on the passenger side doors locking mechanisms which was shorting them out, and this was keeping the car awake. These connecting pins were inadequately protected from moisture, this has been fixed but only on the passenger side, Hyundai won’t currently look at the drivers side unless that flags up a problem. I have now reinstalled Bluelink. Someone on here pointed out that unistalling Bluelink wouldn’t help as the car would still try to communicate which was confirmed by the dealer. There was also a spurious error message from the SOS button which they don’t what that means so I’m hoping that was a low battery issue or one-off. So, my case at the dealers is being kept open, and if I get any further doors unlocked or other error messages I can take it in and they will look at any offending doors. Doesn’t really explain why the first 3 times with the dead 12v issue the car didn’t log error messages. Here’s hoping. No need to peruse the Amperas for sale……
 

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So I got my car back, hopefully it’s fixed! This time the car did log error messages which the dealers could read. When the 12v died this time, the passenger side doors were unlocked whilst the drivers side were locked. Also the previous Bluelink messages I was getting saying ;’doors unlocked’ were likely consistent with that, as when I got the messages I just looked out the window at the car on the driveway and saw the mirrors were folded in, then I assumed the doors were locked. I didn’t go out and physically try them.
Anyway, there was water getting onto connecting pins on the passenger side doors locking mechanisms which was shorting them out, and this was keeping the car awake. These connecting pins were inadequately protected from moisture, this has been fixed but only on the passenger side, Hyundai won’t currently look at the drivers side unless that flags up a problem. I have now reinstalled Bluelink. Someone on here pointed out that unistalling Bluelink wouldn’t help as the car would still try to communicate which was confirmed by the dealer. There was also a spurious error message from the SOS button which they don’t what that means so I’m hoping that was a low battery issue or one-off. So, my case at the dealers is being kept open, and if I get any further doors unlocked or other error messages I can take it in and they will look at any offending doors. Doesn’t really explain why the first 3 times with the dead 12v issue the car didn’t log error messages. Here’s hoping. No need to peruse the Amperas for sale……
 

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Pete - I have the same problem. Just broken down for the 4th time in 3 months. Ridiculous. I have printed out your posts and will take this to the dealership next week. Every now and then I see the single blue light flashing, which means it is charging the 12V battery but then it fails and I am left stranded.
 
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