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Discussion Starter #1
I received delivery of my 2020 Ioniq Electric last week and have been very happy with it so far.

However this weekend after driving about 200 miles I woke up and couldn't unlock my car. The key wasn't working and the app couldn't connect to the car. I'd left the car at 24% battery so didn't understand how could it drain so much overnight.

I managed to get into the car with the mechanical key and open the charging port using the emergency unlock in the boot but when I plugged it in the car didn't receive a charge.

Eventually I managed to get the 12V battery jumped and the car turned back on - and the main battery was still showing as 24%. I then charged the car and the 12V was then also showing as charged.

I've just driven 200miles again and the 12volt battery was almost completely depleted by the trip.

So my question is - isn't the 12V battery meant to charge itself while you're driving? And when the main battery was 24%, why did it allow the 12V battery to die?

Basically I'm wondering if I need to get it looked at as it's faulty or is there something obvious I'm missing.

Many thanks,

Patrick
 

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Yes, this is not normal. Go back with it.
 

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IONIQ Electric, SE (w/ CCP) 2018.
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That's definitely not normal behaviour for your IONIQ. The car should charge the 12V battery anytime the vehicle is on. Sounds like the charge circuit for the 12V has failed. Don't believe that we've heard of this problem before on the forum.
 

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The 12V charger obviously isn't doing its thing. There could be a blown fuse or a bad contact, at any rate a dealer should find out the reason for any symptoms that are present.
 

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Similar thing happened to me yesterday, my 38 is now at the dealer. Once the AA boosted the 12v back to life, they said the 12v was only being charged by the car (DC-DC) at a low rate which suggests the battery is u/s, but he also said there was a 2 amp 'vampire drain' which is likely to be the main issue. Hopefully tomorrow I'll find out if the dealer concurs. I've never seen a dash message saying the battery saver has kicked in, that is definitely ticked in the options so maybe that is an issue or maybe it's the vampire drain alone
 

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early on there was an issue with a few cars, the media unit had a fault and never shut down completely and there was a 1-2 amp drain caused by it

i wonder if this has resurfaced with the new media units?

the fix was replace the media unit
 

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My Hyundai garage aren't seeing the 2 amp drain which is worrying but are saying there may be a fault with the battery saver (not working), apparently there are error codes relating to that. I have never seen a dash message saying the battery saver was activated even though if was def ticked as on in the menu. They are talking to Hyundai for advice. Hope the 2 amp drain is not an intermittent issue!
 

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If I’m sitting in the parked car, fiddling with the settings or whatever, I almost immediately get a “battery discharge warning”. Is that normal? I’m wondering if there’s something wrong with the 12V battery. I’ve only recently acquired this car, which is three years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My Hyundai garage aren't seeing the 2 amp drain which is worrying but are saying there may be a fault with the battery saver (not working), apparently there are error codes relating to that. I have never seen a dash message saying the battery saver was activated even though if was def ticked as on in the menu. They are talking to Hyundai for advice. Hope the 2 amp drain is not an intermittent issue!
My battery saver is also definitely ticked and didn't work to prevent my 12V battery from dying.

I seem to have an additional problem though which is that my 12V isn't charged from driving like it should be. I'm going on a road trip this weekend so will be taking photos and recording my experience with it for when it goes into the garage next week.
 

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They are currently saying it needs a new 12 volt battery, which is on order. Not convinced that is the only problem but we'll see
 

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If I’m sitting in the parked car, fiddling with the settings or whatever, I almost immediately get a “battery discharge warning”. Is that normal? I’m wondering if there’s something wrong with the 12V battery. I’ve only recently acquired this car, which is three years old.
Yes, this is normal. If you're sitting in the car and need to use the accessories (radio, cabin lights, A/C, etc) make sure the car is on. It doesn't use anything from the traction battery and the 12V charging circuit stays on, keeping the 12V battery charged just like if you're driving. If you don't do this, the small 12V is drained quite quickly. EV's differ from regular ICE vehicles in that "idling" is not bad for the motor or a waste of gas.
 

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The garage are saying they can't find a parasitic drain even though the AA did. The 12 volt battery needs replacement but whether that was the cause seems moot. One idea I had was, could the proximity of the key fob be an issue. I have recently been keeping it in a hallway only about 15-20 feet from the car, I used to keep the fob in the kitchen maybe 40 feet away and in a RFID wallet which I stopped doing for no good reason. Maybe the garage has been keeping the fob well away from the car whilst they are testing it. Could this be an issue does anyone think?
 

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The garage are saying they can't find a parasitic drain even though the AA did. The 12 volt battery needs replacement but whether that was the cause seems moot. One idea I had was, could the proximity of the key fob be an issue. I have recently been keeping it in a hallway only about 15-20 feet from the car, I used to keep the fob in the kitchen maybe 40 feet away and in a RFID wallet which I stopped doing for no good reason. Maybe the garage has been keeping the fob well away from the car whilst they are testing it. Could this be an issue does anyone think?
Hey experts, is it ok to disconnect the 12V battery, or does this delete all the car’s settings? If it’s ok, could Pete Cittern disconnect the lead from the -ve battery terminal and connect a multimeter between the -ve terminal and the end of the -ve lead? This should measure any current drain? Or have I got this completely wrong?
 

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I now have a new 12v battery and the garage are saying the battery saver is working. Plug in voltmeter is reading 12.9/13/0 when not being charged, vs low 12s for the old one but early days. So we will see...........
 

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that didn't take long, 12v battery is dead again 2 days after getting it back................rapidly losing confidence
 

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My best guess is that either the DC-DC Converter is faulty, or the brains that decide when to run it and when not to are glitching and not turning it on when they should. Hmm, or maybe it has a fuse / fusible link on it's output that's gone.
 

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The AA said it was charging fine via the DC to DC but who knows, anything is possible if it's an intermittent fault. He also said he gets called out to quite a few Ioniqs with the same dead battery problem, EVs and hybrid alike. But there were no fixes posted on the AA system.
So the fact that mine isn't an isolated problem should mean Hyundai should be onto it. Some chance..... Mine is just over 6 months old but I am going to ask about rejecting it tomorrow.
 

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The fact that the 12v is dead after only a couple of days suggests it has quite a large parasitic drain or simply isn't charging at all. If you can start get the vehicle started, whilst it is started (ie the full traction battery is engaged etc and power steering is working) check the terminals on the battery with a voltmeter, it should be reading 14V or maybe a bit more.
If it isn't, then the 12v charger simply isn't working. If it is, then it sounds like a parasitic drain. I remember reading on here there were some faulty head units apparently that drained 2A even when off. The battery is only around 40 Amp hours, so a 2Amp drain would flatten the battery in less than 20 hours.
You could try the reset button on the head unit, see if that helps?
I wonder also, until you get it fixed and as a workaround, find out which fuse is for the head unit and remove it each time you park up?
 

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If it's not a battery problem or a shutdown problem with a parasitic current. Maybe it is a charging problem.

In the line from the battery to the chassis there is a current sensor on the clamp. It helps determine if power is going in or out of the battery. When the software controlling the DCDC converter thinks it is filled up (time, amps, voltage) it lowers the system voltage and stops charging the battery this way. You can measure this yourself on the auxiliary power outlets (it drops from 14.xV to 12.8-13V).

If the sensor shows to high or is defective a not fully charged battery could be the result. Maybe have look into this at the dealer or mention it.
 
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