Hyundai IONIQ Forum banner
141 - 160 of 162 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
In the app you can set which notifications are sent and if they are sent by email, text, and/or app notifications. I have the most noisy notifications, that I still want, sent as app notifications and have them show without a ring (set in Android). Only important ones like car crashes or geo fencing do I send as texts (obviously when I'm not in the car). I have found that this is a good way for me to get the functionality I want without the annoyance.
Yah, I do have it set as app notifications - as I do not want to forget to lock the car either - thus the issue, hope there is a method of acknowledge and do not remind until car door is opened and closed or something like that.

Also, another pet peeve is that I can NOT link another user to the car through blue link. Why lock 1 car to 1 profile? I would preferred to have my blue link account and my wife's blue link account have access to the car. Now, she has to use my bluelink account to access the car YET she can use her own account for digital key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Yah, I do have it set as app notifications - as I do not want to forget to lock the car either - thus the issue, hope there is a method of acknowledge and do not remind until car door is opened and closed or something like that.

Also, another pet peeve is that I can NOT link another user to the car through blue link. Why lock 1 car to 1 profile? I would preferred to have my blue link account and my wife's blue link account have access to the car. Now, she has to use my bluelink account to access the car YET she can use her own account for digital key.
Oh, interesting problem: another missing feature. My wife is a luddite so she makes me deal with all the technical stuff. She never uses her profile and doesn't have the Bluelink app. So we didn't run into that issue.

I did force her to get all the charging apps and taught her how to charge the car since she often drives in it by herself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
There are a fair few Li-ions for ICE cars, especially in USA, where there's a built-in BMS that looks after the charging properly for you. Some have a low-voltage protector so it shuts down when voltage drops really low so it can't get damaged beyond use that way. But these aren't cheap - maybe $400, something like that.
Yep.. here's one

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Hi everyone, this is my first forum post so please be kind :)
I've had my Ioniq 5 for less than 3 weeks and driven just over 500 miles.
Went out to use car yesterday morning after putting it on to charge overnight from 43% to 100% to find the car completely dead!!!
From what I've read on the many posts since relating to my issue it seems that my 12v battery is flat. I'm astounded that this could happen after such a short time with no warning at all.
If the 12v battery is such a critical component I would expect it to be easily monitored in the car or on the bluelink app but I can't find anything. Is the only solution to purchase an aftermarket BM2 monitor and a booster charge pack to be prepared for it happening again???
If that's the case then it seems to me that the car is not fit for purpose as delivered - does anyone else agree?
Is there any co-ordinated complaint sumission to Hyundai that I can join or a known issue fault report that I can follow.
I'm really dissapointed with this as it's my first electric car and I'm already thinking that I should have stuck with a diesel Audi.:mad:

Turns out you weren't imagining things. There's nothing wrong with your car, it's a software bug that is an error with everyone's car, it just hits sporadically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
Is this still happening ? Thinking to buy but want to avoid this problem.
There are relatively few people with this issue compared to the number of car purchased. In addition, plenty of other Evs also suffer from the same problem. Most are either to misuse or already identified defects. Some may well be defective batteries owing to the long trip form the factory and not being correctly recharged by the dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Really? I've heard the BMS software update fixes the problem. This video says as much.
The dealer may have missed the BMS update on my car, but it happened for the first time not long after they applied the parking brake update. It's a shame as the car has been trouble free since Feb apart from the USB failing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
There are relatively few people with this issue compared to the number of car purchased. In addition, plenty of other Evs also suffer from the same problem. Most are either to misuse or already identified defects. Some may well be defective batteries owing to the long trip form the factory and not being correctly recharged by the dealer.
I hate this response. It's true, but irrelevant. This issue impacts everyone. Whether the symptoms show up to bother you depends exclusively on how long you happen to leave your car sitting idle. In my case, I left it alone one time for 10 days, and now my 12V never tops up. It probably hasn't bit you simply because you haven't waited long enough.

But either way, apologizing for it like this is to simply accept that something that should be fixed doesn't actually matter and screw it lets all wallow in filth.

Now, should you avoid buying this car it's so bad having to jump occasionally? Probably not. Should you avoid buying this car because HMG demonstrates incompetence model after model implementing a relatively straightforward system? I'd argue maybe.
 

·
Registered
22 I5 SEL RWD
Joined
·
126 Posts
I hate this response. It's true, but irrelevant. This issue impacts everyone. Whether the symptoms show up to bother you depends exclusively on how long you happen to leave your car sitting idle. In my case, I left it alone one time for 10 days, and now my 12V never tops up. It probably hasn't bit you simply because you haven't waited long enough.
We've had our I5 for about one month with no 12v drain problem. In a few weeks we will be going on a 2-week vacation and leaving the car idle inside a garage at about 78degF. Is there a preferred strategy for leaving the car in a state where it's least likely to trigger this problem (other than turned off with no external devices plugged into any ports inside the car, presumably)? Is there an optimum SOC to leave the car at, for instance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
We've had our I5 for about one month with no 12v drain problem. In a few weeks we will be going on a 2-week vacation and leaving the car idle inside a garage at about 78degF. Is there a preferred strategy for leaving the car in a state where it's least likely to trigger this problem (other than turned off with no external devices plugged into any ports inside the car, presumably)? Is there an optimum SOC to leave the car at, for instance?
The issue that bit me precisely is that my car "activated Aux Battery Saver + 10 times in a row" while it was sitting for about 11 days. Per the manual, this is the criteria for thinking the battery is faulty, even though it seems to be pretty common that the 12V system demand stays at 3W for that amount of time. There doesn't seem to be any criteria that RESETS the system, so now my 12V battery never tops up, and drains completely dead in about 3 days (and even if I were to drive it regularly, not being topped up means the 12V battery wouldn't last more than a year or two before needing replacement due to the deep cycling).

TL;DR, if my exact failure mode is common, you can avoid triggering that first step by putting your 12V on a battery tender while you're gone. 12V never drains, Aux Battery Saver + never triggers, your car will continue to operate normally for up to 10 days at a time.

Of course, you shouldn't HAVE to do this. And some people have absolutely demonstrated that they don't have the same problem - their car is perfectly healthy and starts right up after 2 months sitting with no special provisions.
 

·
Registered
22 I5 SEL RWD
Joined
·
126 Posts
Thanks for the suggestion .. the obvious next stupid question is what is a battery tender? And, if this should happen to our car, does the condition get fixed when you finally buy a new 12v battery, or are you permanently screwed?

I have heard about the BMS update that was put out in the UK to fix this and had the sense that some people were pleased with it, including MrEV (at least until he had to sell his I5 for other reasons). I have asked in several places if anyone knows if this fix has been made available in the US but have never gotten any response on that point. Does anyone here know if the UK BMS patch for the 12v drain has been or will be released for US cars?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
The issue that bit me precisely is that my car "activated Aux Battery Saver + 10 times in a row" while it was sitting for about 11 days. Per the manual, this is the criteria for thinking the battery is faulty, even though it seems to be pretty common that the 12V system demand stays at 3W for that amount of time. There doesn't seem to be any criteria that RESETS the system, so now my 12V battery never tops up, and drains completely dead in about 3 days (and even if I were to drive it regularly, not being topped up means the 12V battery wouldn't last more than a year or two before needing replacement due to the deep cycling).

TL;DR, if my exact failure mode is common, you can avoid triggering that first step by putting your 12V on a battery tender while you're gone. 12V never drains, Aux Battery Saver + never triggers, your car will continue to operate normally for up to 10 days at a time.

Of course, you shouldn't HAVE to do this. And some people have absolutely demonstrated that they don't have the same problem - their car is perfectly healthy and starts right up after 2 months sitting with no special provisions.
I have left my I5 for more than 3 weeks with no issues. If your car did this then there is a fault, or you have something plugged in that is draining the battery or you or something is polling the car for info.
 

·
Registered
MY22 Ioniq 5 AWD
Joined
·
901 Posts
We've had our I5 for about one month with no 12v drain problem. In a few weeks we will be going on a 2-week vacation and leaving the car idle inside a garage at about 78degF. Is there a preferred strategy for leaving the car in a state where it's least likely to trigger this problem (other than turned off with no external devices plugged into any ports inside the car, presumably)? Is there an optimum SOC to leave the car at, for instance?
Optimum SOC if leaving for up to 6 months is 50%. That should keep transaction battery sufficiently charged to continuously top up the 12V battery, but not decline below about 40%. 50% is the sweet spot for Lithium batteries for minimal degradation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Thanks for the suggestion .. the obvious next stupid question is what is a battery tender? And, if this should happen to our car, does the condition get fixed when you finally buy a new 12v battery, or are you permanently screwed?

I have heard about the BMS update that was put out in the UK to fix this and had the sense that some people were pleased with it, including MrEV (at least until he had to sell his I5 for other reasons). I have asked in several places if anyone knows if this fix has been made available in the US but have never gotten any response on that point. Does anyone here know if the UK BMS patch for the 12v drain has been or will be released for US cars?
Oh! A tender is just a 12V trickle charger to keep your car battery at full charge indefinitely. It’ll supply that continuous drain.


No. Continuous 3W drain is not normal, something is wrong with your car. Usually only cars with dashcam running in parking mode suffer such high battery drain.
There’s SUPPOSED to be a lower power mode, clearly, that the car isn’t entering. But that 3W figure has been corroborated be me and a handful of others with both direct measurement of the 12V positive, and indirect measurement backed out of battery size and soc cycle rate. Yes, figuring out why it doesn’t go into a lower power mode is part of the problem, but it’s hardly JUST my car that has it. On top of that though, merely assuming “high drain means faulty battery” as the system does is brain dead and faulty by design.


I have left my I5 for more than 3 weeks with no issues. If your car did this then there is a fault, or you have something plugged in that is draining the battery or you or something is polling the car for info.
You and many others. Me and many others seem immune to correct operation.

Optimum SOC if leaving for up to 6 months is 50%. That should keep transaction battery sufficiently charged to continuously top up the 12V battery, but not decline below about 40%. 50% is the sweet spot for Lithium batteries for minimal degradation.
That is reasonably correct, but also not relevant to this 12V drain issue. Traction battery SOC has nothing to do with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Oh! A tender is just a 12V trickle charger to keep your car battery at full charge indefinitely. It’ll supply that continuous drain.




There’s SUPPOSED to be a lower power mode, clearly, that the car isn’t entering. But that 3W figure has been corroborated be me and a handful of others with both direct measurement of the 12V positive, and indirect measurement backed out of battery size and soc cycle rate. Yes, figuring out why it doesn’t go into a lower power mode is part of the problem, but it’s hardly JUST my car that has it. On top of that though, merely assuming “high drain means faulty battery” as the system does is brain dead and faulty by design.




You and many others. Me and many others seem immune to correct operation.



That is reasonably correct, but also not relevant to this 12V drain issue. Traction battery SOC has nothing to do with it.
I'm not sure about the traction battery SoC. I had it happen the one time I left the car for a few days with a low SoC(14%). It shouldn't matter but it might do. As with others there was a large load on the system even after completely flattering the 12V. I had to disconnect the battery to trickle charge it, as the phantom drain took all the charger's power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
You and many others. Me and many others seem immune to correct operation.
In which case you have a defect on the car. So take it to the dealer or better still get a 12v BM2 battery monitor to record the issue then take it to the dealer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Restyler
141 - 160 of 162 Posts
Top