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Just contemplating: is it possible to replace the lead acid 12v battery with a Li-ion battery? Or would the car’s charging system mess up the Li-ion battery thinking it is a regular old lead acid battery?
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Ultimate RWD 73kwh
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Hi everyone, this is my first forum post so please be kind :)
I've had my Ioniq 5 for less than 3 weeks and driven just over 500 miles.
Went out to use car yesterday morning after putting it on to charge overnight from 43% to 100% to find the car completely dead!!!
From what I've read on the many posts since relating to my issue it seems that my 12v battery is flat. I'm astounded that this could happen after such a short time with no warning at all.
If the 12v battery is such a critical component I would expect it to be easily monitored in the car or on the bluelink app but I can't find anything. Is the only solution to purchase an aftermarket BM2 monitor and a booster charge pack to be prepared for it happening again???
If that's the case then it seems to me that the car is not fit for purpose as delivered - does anyone else agree?
Is there any co-ordinated complaint sumission to Hyundai that I can join or a known issue fault report that I can follow.
I'm really dissapointed with this as it's my first electric car and I'm already thinking that I should have stuck with a diesel Audi.:mad:
UPDATE
Thanks for your responses.
I opened the chareport with the remote as that's the only way I can get it to open. Door won't open when I press it and the app is hit and miss with connections. I did press the door several times to try and open it though so that could have been the root cause?
No additional gadgets have been intstalled in the car....
AA came round yesterday and jump started. 12v was only at 3v! He said that he couldn't identify the fault but the battery was recharging so seemed to be ok. Didn't see any flashing light to indicate aux battery saver+ was working during 12v charging so that seems strange...
BM2 arrived also arrived yesterday so fitted that. 12v charged to 13.99v while charging in util mode.
21:00 - 12.9v car off and locked
Gradual decline to 12.79v by 07:09 this morning so seems to be ok. Wife now taken it to work - hope it sarts again this evening for her to come home as the new booster pack doesn't arrive until today!
Will see what happens next time I charge car but will ensure I only use the remote to open charge port!
 

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Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
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Interesting that there are many 12v Li-ion automotive batteries available. Wondering if any vehicles use this or if they are for golf carts, lawn mowers, etc.
There are a fair few Li-ions for ICE cars, especially in USA, where there's a built-in BMS that looks after the charging properly for you. Some have a low-voltage protector so it shuts down when voltage drops really low so it can't get damaged beyond use that way. But these aren't cheap - maybe $400, something like that.
 

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Will see what happens next time I charge car but will ensure I only use the remote to open charge port!
Charge port is misaligned if it cannot be opened by pressing the cover, you should have it aligned or replaced by your dealer. Temporary solution:
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Ultimate RWD 73kwh
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Charge port is misaligned if it cannot be opened by pressing the cover, you should have it aligned or replaced by your dealer. Temporary solution:
I've tried the finger work around but it still doesn't work so looks like the car will have to go back to dealer......still waiting on them calling me back - not impressed with hyundai dealer service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Exists a temporary fix to drain if you have the misalign. You can put near the button a tape to avoid the door pressure over the button.
My dealer made that fix while we were waiting for the new change port and works!
 

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I've tried the finger work around but it still doesn't work so looks like the car will have to go back to dealer......still waiting on them calling me back - not impressed with hyundai dealer service.
Note the charge door will only open within 15 seconds of unlocking the car when manually pressing on it. i.e. if you press on it more than 15 seconds after unlocking the car, it won't open.
If you have an amp meter, you can check for drain by wrapping it around the negative cable of the 12v battery.
something like this will work
 

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Note the charge door will only open within 15 seconds of unlocking the car when manually pressing on it. i.e. if you press on it more than 15 seconds after unlocking the car, it won't open.
If you have an amp meter, you can check for drain by wrapping it around the negative cable of the 12v battery.
something like this will work
Really? 15 seconds? I mean, do I literally have to run to the charge door after parking the car (when it will unlock)?
Well, that said, I usually park the car, then press on the "voice" button and tell the car to "open the charger door" and it will open for me.
 

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nyet tovarich.....most clamp on ammeters are only AC. This low level stuff needs a series ammeter at low settings. AND interestingly enough, when you try to do this in some cases, the low set point results in fuse destruction during a high initial surge, requiring one to shunt initially to take care of surge. Hmmm.
 

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Really? 15 seconds? I mean, do I literally have to run to the charge door after parking the car (when it will unlock)?
Well, that said, I usually park the car, then press on the "voice" button and tell the car to "open the charger door" and it will open for me.
Press the unlock button on the key FOB, and you have 15 seconds to unlock the charge door MANUALLY. The 15 seconds restarts every time you press the unlock button on the key FOB. You can use the key FOB to unlock the charge door at any time. This restriction is only if you want to open the charge door by manually pushing on it.
 

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Really? 15 seconds? I mean, do I literally have to run to the charge door after parking the car (when it will unlock)?
Well, that said, I usually park the car, then press on the "voice" button and tell the car to "open the charger door" and it will open for me.
15 sec is ample time to unlock the doors and reach for the charge door. If you have been longer for any reason simply lock and then unlock the door again.
 

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nyet tovarich.....most clamp on ammeters are only AC. This low level stuff needs a series ammeter at low settings. AND interestingly enough, when you try to do this in some cases, the low set point results in fuse destruction during a high initial surge, requiring one to shunt initially to take care of surge. Hmmm.
I have a pretty cheap one (UNI-T 213C) and it measure DC as well. I have measured a draw of about 20 Milliamps with the hood open. You don't need a series ammeter in this case especially if a defective charge port will draw 6 to 7 amps!
 

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Press the unlock button on the key FOB, and you have 15 seconds to unlock the charge door MANUALLY. The 15 seconds restarts every time you press the unlock button on the key FOB. You can use the key FOB to unlock the charge door at any time. This restriction is only if you want to open the charge door by manually pushing on it.
15 sec is ample time to unlock the doors and reach for the charge door. If you have been longer for any reason simply lock and then unlock the door again.
yes, one could do it, but for example, my wife has the key in her bag and never takes it out of the bag and physically press the unlock button.
Once you park the car, take the cable out of the phone, take the phone, get out, etc and by the time you get to the charge door, it will be easily after 15 seconds.
Now, you are correct that she could "lock" by touching the handle and "unlock" and try to open the door again, but I still think 15 second "requirement" is rather ridiculous, 5 min. I can see, 15 sec? Why?
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Cyber Grey Limited
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yes, one could do it, but for example, my wife has the key in her bag and never takes it out of the bag and physically press the unlock button.
Once you park the car, take the cable out of the phone, take the phone, get out, etc and by the time you get to the charge door, it will be easily after 15 seconds.
Now, you are correct that she could "lock" by touching the handle and "unlock" and try to open the door again, but I still think 15 second "requirement" is rather ridiculous, 5 min. I can see, 15 sec? Why?
I checked out my limited model car today and there is least 2 minutes to open the charge door after getting out of the vehicle. I thought maybe it was because I was still in the vicinity of the car with my fob. I walked farther away and came back and it still opened. So I have no idea how long the cut off is. Also I have never had a problem pushing firmly on the door and having it not open when it should be able to open. Don't know where the 15 seconds comes from. I have always left the car unlocked upon shutdown.
 

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I checked out my limited model car today and there is least 2 minutes to open the charge door after getting out of the vehicle. I thought maybe it was because I was still in the vicinity of the car with my fob. I walked farther away and came back and it still opened. So I have no idea how long the cut off is. Also I have never had a problem pushing firmly on the door and having it not open when it should be able to open. Don't know where the 15 seconds comes from. I have always left the car unlocked upon shutdown.
just retested on my ultimate (Canadian limited more or less). After I press the unlock button with the key FOB, the car will automatically lock itself after ~30 seconds. Within that time the charge door can be opened.
And can confirm Chiptuck's experience. After exiting the car after driving, as long as the car is not locked the charge port door can be opened manually.
 

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So, today I have learned two things, after working on auto mechanics for a lot of decades. First, thanks for info on DC clamp on ammeter....never heard of anything but my old AC amp probe.....good info. AND, I went to look at a motorcycle, and the guy shows me a WOBBLE shaft for sockets.....never heard of them....very useful. Hmmm, is it good or bad to age.
 

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I checked out my limited model car today and there is least 2 minutes to open the charge door after getting out of the vehicle. I thought maybe it was because I was still in the vicinity of the car with my fob. I walked farther away and came back and it still opened. So I have no idea how long the cut off is. Also I have never had a problem pushing firmly on the door and having it not open when it should be able to open. Don't know where the 15 seconds comes from. I have always left the car unlocked upon shutdown.
Well, when I first tried to open the charger door, it required a LOT of force pushing on the door to get it opened. Asking the car to open the charger door is a lot easier.
That said, I usually leave my car unlocked, BUT, unfortunately, with this one, I get constant bombardment of notifications from the app that the car is unlocked so now a days, I just lock it.
 

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Well, when I first tried to open the charger door, it required a LOT of force pushing on the door to get it opened. Asking the car to open the charger door is a lot easier.
That said, I usually leave my car unlocked, BUT, unfortunately, with this one, I get constant bombardment of notifications from the app that the car is unlocked so now a days, I just lock it.
In the app you can set which notifications are sent and if they are sent by email, text, and/or app notifications. I have the most noisy notifications, that I still want, sent as app notifications and have them show without a ring (set in Android). Only important ones like car crashes or geo fencing do I send as texts (obviously when I'm not in the car). I have found that this is a good way for me to get the functionality I want without the annoyance.
 
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