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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! yesterday I had a warning on Bluelink app about the 12V battery (red icon and warning text)
Early in the morning I started the vehicle without problems and the warning is gone.

Did you have a similar issue?
Is it an app bug?

IONIQ5 RWD 73,2kWh
 

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Project 45 Phantom Black
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Not sure if it's a bug or not but the warning pops up occasionally for me also and goes away the next day or so. Haven't had any issues outside of the warning. Some people have had flat 12V battery issues though.
 

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Likely that is warning of an automatic recharge of the 12 volt battery while car was parked. Such recharges are triggered by detecting low voltage states in the battery. An occasional warning is probably not worrying about. Lots of them is basically alerting you to high vampire current which is discharging your battery. Which should lead you to service to check for the source of high current while car is off to remedy the issue. At the least, such events shorten your battery life and at worst will strand you.
 

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Ioniq 5 Project 45 and E-Niro 4+. (Previously, Polestar2, Tesla M3, Ampera, Ioniq)
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If the battery 'drained completely' twice in 24 hours it does rather suggest a problem with the battery itself, but it's odd that the car is not trying to top it up. Do you have a battery tester or a local centre that could test it for you?
 

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I agree. And the "bad" battery in all probability got that way from many smaller discharges since it left the factory than an electrical problem that just arose recently. I would suggest hooking up the battery to a smart trickle charger: it may not be too late to reverse the sulfation than all those smaller voltage drops caused.
 

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Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
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Please get a BM2 battery monitor & hook it up. This will show you what's really going on to the voltages, and it will be very illuminating to see what treatment the Ioniq 5 gives the 12V. If it's the same as Konas & Ioniq 38s get, then they may not have improved their strategy, and you Ioniq 5 guys can expect a number of vampire drains leaving you with a flat battery. There's been 1 or 2 mentions already of this happening.

If they've changed the strategy (more frequent topups, topup happening when voltage getting low rather than really empty, topups lasting more than a pathetic 20 mins once/day as in Ioniq 38, something like that hopefully) then this will be more ammo to persuade them to upgrade the strategy on Konas & Ioniq originals. H & other mfrs need to learn hard & quickly from Tesla policy of trying their best to look after previous buyers, and not just shovel cars out of the door & then forget they exist.
 
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MY22 Ioniq 5 AWD
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Please get a BM2 battery monitor & hook it up. This will show you what's really going on to the voltages, and it will be very illuminating to see what treatment the Ioniq 5 gives the 12V. If it's the same as Konas & Ioniq 38s get, then they may not have improved their strategy, and you Ioniq 5 guys can expect a number of vampire drains leaving you with a flat battery. There's been 1 or 2 mentions already of this happening.
The 12V drainage issue was addressed, in Kona at least, by software update in 2019 - my Kona checks 12V battery every few hours & charges as necessary. Although I know it was a problem before that. I’d be amazed if I5 doesn’t do that as well. I still think the most likely explanation is battery damage when 12V is isolated for shipping/storage. But we’re all speculating- I haven't seen anything definitive at this stage.
 

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Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
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Hopefully I5 has the 4-hourly, or is it 6-hourly checks the Kona does. But Ioniq 38 doesn't! And we've heard of some I5 flat batteries happening. Until someone with an I5 puts a BM2 on the 12V we won't know what H are trying these days ...
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 AWD Balance Vision
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So that your 12V battery discharges as little as possible, when you get into the car, you must always press the brake pedal and turn the ignition on until you see green ”READY”, so that the DC/DC converter is switched on, which charges your 12V battery with 14V. Either you have to go to EV in the infotainment screen -> gear icon right -> scrolls down to see Activity mode and set it on. This does the same, without having to push the brake and put it in the ready position.
NOTE:
  • On an ICE version you also let run the engine so that the alternator charges the 12V battery to prevent draining, here on an EV you must only switch the DC/DC converter on to charge your 12V battery.
  • the electric motor(s) doesn't run when you are in the READY state as long as your gear selector is in the P position.
  • As soon as you put the ignition key on so that the green "READY" is on, the activity mode is automatically turned off.

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive lighting Hood
 

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So that your 12V battery discharges as little as possible, when you get into the car, you must always press the brake pedal and turn the ignition on until you see green ”READY”, so that the DC/DC converter is switched on, which charges your 12V battery with 14V. Either you have to go to EV in the infotainment screen -> gear icon right -> scrolls down to see Activity mode and set it on. This does the same, without having to push the brake and put it in the ready position.
NOTE:
  • On an ICE version you also let run the engine so that the alternator charges the 12V battery to prevent draining, here on an EV you must only switch the DC/DC converter on to charge your 12V battery.
  • the electric motor(s) doesn't run when you are in the READY state as long as your gear selector is in the P position.
  • As soon as you put the ignition key on so that the green "READY" is on, the activity mode is automatically turned off.
Good info Jaz but how long does the 12v auxiliary battery get charged for at 14v.

As Andy @HandyAndy mentioned before, a short charge on a depleted wet acid battery is not going to make much difference at all (if any).

Does anyone know if the I5 has a split charge relay fitted to help maintain the 12v battery when the traction battery is being charged via an external power hookup.
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 AWD Balance Vision
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Good info Jaz but how long does the 12v auxiliary battery get charged for at 14v.

As Andy @HandyAndy mentioned before, a short charge on a depleted wet acid battery is not going to make much difference at all (if any).

Does anyone know if the I5 has a split charge relay fitted to help maintain the 12v battery when the traction battery is being charged via an external power hookup.
When you start charging you traction battery, you have to put your ignition off, but once you charge you can put the ignition key in “READY” so that the 12V battery charges too.
 

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When you start charging you traction battery, you have to put your ignition off, but once you charge you can put the ignition key in “READY” so that the 12V battery charges too.
Thanks Jaz,

It sounds to me as if the auxiliary battery will struggle to stay healthy if it is only being charged for very short periods and yet still needs to supply power to some vital functions.

Question: Do you know if the auxiliary battery does receive a bulk/absorption charge when the car is on external hookup as that to me would be the best opportunity to keep the battery topped-up. How does Tesla do it?

That said, I measured 12.7v on our I5 battery and yet the car still didn't want to engage D or R so I'm still clueless about the electronic charging methods on the I5.

All the best,

Sb
 

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How much voltage on your 12V battery do you measure when you put the ignition in the position ready or if you activate the activity mode? You should measure between 13.5 and 14.0V if all other consumers are off.
 

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The 12.7v was taken when the car was fully switched off.

The point I make (and in synch with @HandyAndy) is that short bursts of charge while the system is ready/on is not going to make a huge difference to the Battery itself.

Also, if the actual charge being provided from the traction battery is only 13.5v (+) then that's insufficient IMO to support a quality charge for a wet battery. I would personally want a 14.1v constant charge for standard wet batteries and 14.3v if the auxiliary battery was derived from an EFB technology and 14.7/8v for AGM etc.

All the best,

SB
 

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The 12.7v was taken when the car was fully switched off.

The point I make (and in synch with @HandyAndy) is that short bursts of charge while the system is ready/on is not going to make a huge difference to the Battery itself.

Also, if the actual charge being provided from the traction battery is only 13.5v (+) then that's insufficient IMO to support a quality charge for a wet battery. I would personally want a 14.1v constant charge for standard wet batteries and 14.3v if the auxiliary battery was derived from an EFB technology and 14.7/8v for AGM etc.

All the best,

SB
12.7V is 100% OK for a battery with everything switched off.
The alternator of an ICE car charges on average between 13.5V and 14V, sometimes a little bit higher, but 14V is more than enough to charge the battery correctly. Above 14 volts is even nefast for the 12V battery life.
 

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I hope they will replace the close button too and check the charge port door if it is not deformed. Because sometimes you push too hard to try to open this charge door. If the button is faulty and stay clicked or the door is deformed and continue to push on the close button, it is normal that the 12V battery drains.
 
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