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My 12 volt battery is done for and I knew it before it started throwing weird codes (only an HEV code that the diagnostic said was actually the 12v battery). It's going to take them about 2 weeks to get one (they ordered it on Friday and sent me an eta today of May 14). The battery cost as quoted by Hyundai is $363.76 + $62.50 Labour (that long? really? it's not hard to get at) + HST ($55.41) = 481.67

I called around and couldn't find one so I bit the bullet and ordered it from Hyundai.

Are there any special procedures for replacing the 12 volt battery? Do I need to back up anything (software, settings)? I don't care if it loses my settings since there wouldn't be many to reset. Yes I know the 12 volt battery is in the trunk by the rear passenger side wheel well because I have looked at it.

It is disgraceful that such a small battery is so expansive compared to the battery that was in my 2010 Elantra (around $150 at Canadian Tire).

Could I have bought a bigger battery and stashed in the tool holder under the trunk mat or somewhere else that isn't in the way?

Thank you.
 

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You don't have to do anything special. I've had mine disconnected while it's been on a smart charger overnight and when I reconnect it everything comes back up just fine except the climate control which reverts to Fahrenheit. You can change that back to Celsius with a push and hold button sequence that I always forget, or through the settings menu accessed with the steering wheel buttons.
 
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My 12 volt battery is done for and I knew it before it started throwing weird codes (only an HEV code that the diagnostic said was actually the 12v battery). It's going to take them about 2 weeks to get one (they ordered it on Friday and sent me an eta today of May 14). The battery cost as quoted by Hyundai is $363.76 + $62.50 Labour (that long? really? it's not hard to get at) + HST ($55.41) = 481.67

I called around and couldn't find one so I bit the bullet and ordered it from Hyundai.

Are there any special procedures for replacing the 12 volt battery? Do I need to back up anything (software, settings)? I don't care if it loses my settings since there wouldn't be many to reset. Yes I know the 12 volt battery is in the trunk by the rear passenger side wheel well because I have looked at it.

It is disgraceful that such a small battery is so expansive compared to the battery that was in my 2010 Elantra (around $150 at Canadian Tire).

Could I have bought a bigger battery and stashed in the tool holder under the trunk mat or somewhere else that isn't in the way?

Thank you.
I have a 2019 PHEV from California and my battery just died on me with no warnings at all. Thought I might as well change the battery and I did the same as you, I called the dealership just to see what they were offering. This is what I was quoted $489.79 for the battery + $29.99 for labor. WHAT THE HECK! I was just shocked, it's so tiny! Why does it gotta be so expensive!?!?!

I actually had a hard time finding anybody that carries this size of a battery. Luckily, my service advisor said to try Interstate Batteries since they are the ones that make the battery for the Ioniq. GREAT, I called them, gave them the model number for the battery, and they had NO idea what I was talking about....... They even didn't believe me when I said I had a 12V battery! I think the 2020+ model year is when Hyundai removed the 12V battery though, so I can see the confusion.

Luckily, they still wanted to help! So they searched around and found me THIS! The Full Throttle Battery Model FT560L. This battery was $343.37 and then I had to add shims for the connectors to fit snug which were an additional $10.95. Maybe see if this is cheaper for you in Canada.

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Here are some stats on it:

Battery ModelFull Throttle Battery FT560L
Voltage12V
Short Circuit2600 A
PHCA (Pulse Hot Cranking Amperes)1200 A
CCA (Cold Cranking Performance)560 A
HCA (Hot Cranking Amperes)860 A
MCA (Marine Cranking Amps)725 A
Price$343.37

So the Full Throttle Battery did NOT fit as is though. I had to remove the plastic cap from the positive cable, add shims on the terminals to get a snug fit from the terminals, and I had to add spacers under it in order for the battery to be secured properly with the bracket.

I took off this plastic cap from the postivie cable because the raised part on top of the battery was too close to the positive terminal for it to fit properly.

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These are the shims I also bought from Interstate Batteries. They just slide right over the terminals to increase the diameter.

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I used these foam things my Dad found at his work and lined them up. You could probably use wood that is about 1/2in thick and that would work just fine too since it's protected in the trunk.

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When changing the battery, I had no issues with anything when I had the battery out. Even my radio presets remained the same!

The only things that I noticed were the climate control settings were set back to the factory settings and my Trip A and B were reset to 0.

Hope this helps!
 

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Have a weird issue. Did the map update, battery went flat, as I left it on ACC instead of on. Jumped the car, and drove fine for a day. Got in it on Sat and I have AEB failure now, no cruise either. Think it might be the battery since I drained it doing the map update? Or are the two a coincidence? *Edit, Radar unit is kaput, so dealer is going to install a new one under warranty.
 

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I replaced the 12V battery of my EV (in the front) myself for less than €60,- I bought a Varta A13 that matched the size of the original one, but it also has the smaller Japanese (JIS) terminals, so I had to get converters.
 

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I read a lot on the forum about 12 v battery issues. I have not had any problems with my battery but it is three years old so I'm starting to educate myself on the options. When I read this post and saw a price of over $400 for a replacement battery I was shocked! I cant remember when I last bought a car battery but I'm sure it was under $100.

I started looking to see what a replacement battery would cost here in Ohio. Initially I had a hard time finding a suitable battery. Many store sites provide battery finder search tools, but when I entered a 2018 Ioniq Phev the searches did not find batteries for that model car. So I looked at my current 12 v battery and wrote down the specs.

Part # CMF45R-DIN
Width 6.75 in
Length 8 in
Height 7 in
410 CCA (cold cranking amps)
80 RC (reserve capacity) (I think it is 80, but it was hard to see)

Then searched again for similar batteries. This was hit and miss until I learned about battery group size. It seems my battery dimensions correspond to a battery group size of 26 or 26R.
Battery Size Chart
This made searching for a replacement battery much easier and I found many more options. I found similar batteries ranging from $75 - $150 US ($91 - $182 CAN). The specs seem reasonably similar.

Still learning, but it seems battery terminals/posts come in different styles - SAE, DIN, or JIS. Apparently mine is DIN since that is in the part number. Something to be aware of as other people have had to buy post shims to make the replacement battery fit the connectors.

Also, there are options for the battery type, standard flooded lead acid or AGM.
Flooded vs AGM
The AGM batteries are more expensive and maybe that's why the OP had a price over $400 CAN. Though it seems my original battery is not AGM so I plan to get standard when the time comes.

Hope this is helpful.
 

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Thanks @Jonboy, that is awesome information!
 

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I can't believe Hyundai wants to charge that much for a simple 12V battery 😠 WTF?!

Do these batteries have any special properties that a normal 12V battery of a similar size and amperage can't handle?

I am also curious if the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) even matters -- does the Ioniq even have an old fashioned starter motor? If not, then all that matters would be total amperage since there's no cranking per se. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Thanks for the info @Jonboy (though still quite expensive). My previous vehicle (Honda Civic Hybrid) had a tiny 12V battery that was hard to find and cost ~$150 as opposed to ~$100 for nominal 12 V batteries at Autozone. I used to think that was not great. 😂
 

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I can't believe Hyundai wants to charge that much for a simple 12V battery 😠 WTF?!

Do these batteries have any special properties that a normal 12V battery of a similar size and amperage can't handle?

I am also curious if the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) even matters -- does the Ioniq even have an old fashioned starter motor? If not, then all that matters would be total amperage since there's no cranking per se. 🤷‍♂️
I was wondering the same thing since the 12 v battery in the phev is not used to start the gas engine. If it's only used to power on the electronics then would a smaller battery do just as well? I mean if I was a poor college kid again I would be very curious to know why a $50 riding lawn mower battery wouldnt be an option for a phev.

I found this article which shows typical current draw for common automobile components.
How many CCA do you really need
Very interesting, there are a lot of things powered by a 12 v battery that I didnt think about. I guess the engineers put in a 410 CCA battery for a reason. Actually, I'm rather impressed with the overall job that the Hyundai engineers did, so I have no problem following their lead here. When I need to replace mine I will choose a battery of similar specs.

But I am not impressed at all with the job that Hyundai dealerships do when they charge nearly $500 for the battery and labor. So I wont be going that route.
 

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I can't believe Hyundai wants to charge that much for a simple 12V battery 😠 WTF?!

Do these batteries have any special properties that a normal 12V battery of a similar size and amperage can't handle?

I am also curious if the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) even matters -- does the Ioniq even have an old fashioned starter motor? If not, then all that matters would be total amperage since there's no cranking per se. 🤷‍♂️
Nope, it has a HSG (hybrid starter generator) on the front of the ICE, basically spins the serpentine belt to start the engine.
 
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