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12v battery replacement 2019 PHEV

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77K views 69 replies 28 participants last post by  Cold Blast  
#1 ·
I was able to pick up and replace the 12v battery I had ordered for my car from NAPA auto parts. Ever since summer if I don't drive for about 2 days to charge the car turning on the car would give all sorts of errors and had to jump start (plugin my lithium booster pack to the car) twice since summer. I'm at 50k mi and so the dealer refused to budge on replacing it under warranty and wanted $500 plus labor for the battery. I wound up replacing the CMF45R-DIN 45Ah (20HR) battery that was in the trunk of my car with an Odyssey Extreme PC1200LT AGM BCI 26 battery.

I'd say it's a 90%fit. The batteries are almost identical in dimensions. To get the battery to be properly strapped in I had to use some foam pads I had since it's a bit shorter, from being fully sealed compared to the old one and doesn't have the extra plastic bits at the top. Also, the terminals are a bit more forward on the new battery and so I had to leave the negative terminal somewhat askew so the plastic door/trim can fit where it belongs.

Here's hoping this lasts more than 2yrs. On my previous hybrid car, I also had to replace flooded battery with an agm for slightly better performance after the stock battery died after 2yrs and it made it 3yrs w/o issue before the car was totaled.


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#3 ·
Only time will tell. The new battery is definitely a few pounds heavier than the old one was.
 
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#5 ·
DK77 said:
ScorpioH, how's the battery working for you? Need to replace mine and the Dealership is not only back-ordered but wants $550 plus tax.

Is this the same battery you're using?

Click to expand...
Yup, that's the one. Just note it's about an inch shorter than the stock one, so I had to add two pieces of hard foam under the hold-down bracket up top to make sure it was secure. My battery is in the trunk and so positive is on the left, but I have seen photos of the battery for those that have it in the engine bay (EVs?) and those seem to have the positive on the right.

I had the car give me the warning that it had to use the battery maintain/topup feature once a month or two ago and so I had to make sure my dashcam was off before topping it off with a trickle charger. Since then I also inserted a small chunk of aluminum ring or something into the clamp that goes over the positive terminal, since that terminal clamp seemed to have been loose compared to the negative (see photo). I suspect the positive terminal is not quite spec and wouldn't fully tighten on the positive battery post. So far so good and I haven't gotten any notifications on the car.

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Also, do NOT attempt to remove the nut attached to the bolt for the terminal. I tried doing that to attach my hardwired battery charger connector to it, that was a mistake. The bolt has the end of the threads messed with. I didn't notice that and forced the nut off, which wrecked the threads on the bolt. Finding a replacement of the same size with the square head took me a while. I managed to install my charger cable, but it's under the plastic cover.
 
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#12 ·
ScorpioH and ll others,

I had a breakthrough looking for a replacement battery for my 2019 PHEV. Just like many others, I experience ghost discharge that I cannot locate, resulting in prematurely wearing out a 12V battery beyond recharging it. I read the forum, many posts, and when deciding on replacing my 12V battery, seems like the only option was getting the the OEM part from the dealer: $370. That's too much for a regular, actually pretty small 12V battery.
So, here it is - direct replacement from AutoZone (for those in US) part # DL-26. Fits like a glove. Reversed polarity for trunk location. Install is a breeze, direct replacement plug and play. No adapters for sizing or terminals needed. And it actually
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has larger cold cranking amps than the original. Battery cost (Nov 2021) was $140. I call that a win! Check out pictures for comparison.
 
#14 ·
Chief Ski said:
ScorpioH and ll others,

I had a breakthrough looking for a replacement battery for my 2019 PHEV. Just like many others, I experience ghost discharge that I cannot locate, resulting in prematurely wearing out a 12V battery beyond recharging it. I read the forum, many posts, and when deciding on replacing my 12V battery, seems like the only option was getting the the OEM part from the dealer: $370. That's too much for a regular, actually pretty small 12V battery.
So, here it is - direct replacement from AutoZone (for those in US) part # DL-26. Fits like a glove. Reversed polarity for trunk location. Install is a breeze, direct replacement plug and play. No adapters for sizing or terminals needed. And it actuallyhas larger cold cranking amps than the original. Battery cost (Nov 2021) was $140. I call that a win! Check out pictures for comparison.
Click to expand...
Looks like that’s a pretty close fit! The only reason to avoid that one is it appears to be a conventional flooded battery. The ones that come with the car (the ones in the trunk space) have a hose to vent gasses outside of the car. The agm one I bought is fully sealed and so will swell and vent nowhere. This one will vent some hydrogen during the recharge cycles into the car and not outside. Also from what I read agm batteries are able to handle the more frequent and deeper drain/charge cycles than a regular flooded battery like the one you show. Although it will do in a pinch since group 26 batteries in an agm appear to not be commonly. I had to wait a few days for mine to come in.

The $370 the dealership quoted you is way better than what they wanted out of me, although still a bit more expensive than the one I bought. Agm batteries then to be more expensive than conventional 12v batteries.
 
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#13 ·
I've had one dead battery on the Ioniq with the new AGM battery. It came from not locking the doors and then it draining in a couple of days. There is definitely a bug in the software. Fingers crossed that this doesn't happen too often. I went with the more expensive battery hoping it'll last more than twice as long as a cheap one. FWIW I saw Walmart has the Group 26 size for something like 60 bucks. Maybe should have rolled the dice with that one!
 
#15 ·
You are correct about the drain coming from the opened doors especially the trunk. I even replaced the original lights for LED type. Still discharging. So at this point we are just being careful and limit the opened door time. "In and out" when offloading groceries. 😅. I also connect a trickle charger once a month or so just to top it off....not sure if this helps maybe. As far as the hydrogen gasses - you are correct, but I'm willing to live with it as is. Car has been driving great in new battery for last month or so.
 
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#16 · (Edited)
So much for the 12V battery being lithium ion and being recharged from the traction battery and never having to worry about lead-acid battery problems again! I don't know if all that hoo-hah about the Li-ion was on the HEV but not the PHEV...whatever. This OEM Delkor doesn't exist in the US, I checked some online Hyundai parts websites (which are almost always Hyundai dealers) and a number of them had it at a reasonable price, however a number of them said "discontinued" so it would seem that even some dealers are putting in a different battery, even though as noted above this seems to be fairly specialized with the captured vent and the tube going out the wheel well. Anyway, my point is that in the US the only chance of getting the OEM battery is the dealer.

I have had bad experiences having batteries shipped by common carrier (UPS, FedEx), even sealed ones (AGM), so I would want to get it directly from the dealer (where it hopefully was delivered by truck on a skid), my experience is that the decent price online is not what you get at the dealer parts counter. I, like some of the other posters, am a little leery of putting a battery in there without the captured vent...although I have been using sealed batteries forever, so color me biased (since Delco went bankrupt and stopped making their own batteries, I haven't been able to get Delco "Freedom" batteries, I have been using Exide, what is now called the Marathon Max, with mixed success. However they are only available in limited sizes, no Group 26).

I did find a Fullriver Full Throttle FT560L sealed AGM, looks pretty expensive and not sure how available.

As I asked in another thread on dead batteries, has anyone tried charging without disconnecting the battery cables? There is a huge warning in the manual about it, but it sure would be easier to charge on the connected terminals or on the engine compartment terminals (I think I found the positive in the relay box, I couldn't find a dedicated "jump start" negative in the engine compartment, I guess they just want you to find a good ground there? Everything looked painted.)

Happy Holdays, guys and gals!

EDIT: I should mention that Delco does now have sealed AGM batteries, whoever makes them, but not Group 26.

EDIT EDIT: I went through the AutoZone "battery finder" and it says "These products are currently not available for your Hyundai Ioniq Plug-in Hybrid" . Not a critique I'm just saying that for whatever reason (perhaps lack of demand) none of the "battery finders" I used showed anything for Ioniq, and AutoZone isn't explicitly recommending that Duralast battery for this car. I hate when this stuff happens, I have another car that has an oddball battery.
 
#17 ·
#Setec, followed you here...
I charge without removing the battery cables on my UK 2017 phev. About once a month but the car is being driven more and the 12V is being charged by being ON , for at least 700 miles a month eg a good 12 hours. That's not including 4 x charging the traction battery for 2.5hrs, so another 10hrs. I still get the odd "night time battery saver+" kicking in, if I've not driven for a few days, despite having a solar PV panel attached.

Never used the +VE and metal ground under the bonnet as have never been in that position in 4 years... Or Yet.
 
#18 ·
BlueNev said:
Never used the +VE and metal ground under the bonnet as have never been in that position in 4 years... Or Yet.
Click to expand...
I've used it a few times just to get the car powered up so I can pop the trunk/boot to get a charger on the lead-acid battery. Any of the bolts on the inverter housing has worked as the ground when boosting via the +ve post in the fuse box under the hood/bonnet.
 
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#21 · (Edited)
I'm facing this issue myself now, and appreciative of others sharing their experiences here. Has anyone who has replaced the original battery with a non-calcium (in other words, a "normal" battery) checked their electrolyte levels (that is, how much liquid is present under the caps of a non-sealed battery) since? I'm a little worried that the charging system may assume a calcium battery and thereby overcharge a conventional, leading to significant gassing (and thus loss) of the electrolyte.

Testing this morning, my 2019 Ioniq PHEV applies 13.8 V to the accessory battery whenever the car is on and 14.6 V when it is charging. Those are reasonable voltages for float and fast charge, respectively, of a conventional lead-acid battery, so the only real concern is whether the charging doesn't stop until it gets to calcium's higher stationary voltage. I'm inclined to guess no, since if some sources I read are correct then with those voltages the battery would never even get there. (Those same sources suggest that if you are charging the OEM battery externally with most chargers, you probably are not charging it all the way...and that Hyundai may not have chosen its OEM battery very well, since calcium batteries are very vulnerable to damage upon deep discharge...which seems to happen every time I don't drive for a week or so, which is pretty often. So much for the Aux Battery Saver feature!)

Sources regarding calcium-lead-acid batteries:

What and how to charge a calcium car battery? ― 130.com.ua

Now many people install calcium car batteries (CA or Ca / Ca). They have improved performance and are different from other batteries. Therefore, you need to use a special charger for calcium batteries. Consider more.
130.com.ua 130.com.ua
 
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#22 ·
I don't think I have any useful info other than my experience finding a cheaper replacement for the replacement OEM battery the dealership provided when the original from Korea failed at the 9 month mark.
Magnacharge are specialists in automotive batteries and refused to sell me a replacement for the OEM
I currently have that is now approaching 5 years of service life in a severe climate.
🐧
 
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#23 · (Edited)
I live in Minnesota, where the Ioniq plug-in is (still) not sold, so my local Hyundai dealer actually came back to me with "battery is unavailable for that vehicle." The Kia Niro, based on the same platform as the Ioniq and sold here, uses the same battery but with the terminals reversed, so that wasn't an easy option. (I would have been unlikely to have been willing to pay for those offerings anyway, frankly, given the prices people have quoted above...though perhaps some reason is creeping in of late? Not everyone charges outlandish prices for this battery: 2017-2022 Hyundai Ioniq Battery 37110-G2410 | OEM Parts Online.) I charged ahead with Chief Ski's recommendation of a BCI Group Size 26 (IMPORTANT: NOT 26R!), though I went with one from Walmart. (The Plus level is actually cheaper, but wasn't available locally.) I'm not usually a Walmart fan, but I'm pretty sure their battery is made by the same folks as the Autozone (Clarios, which is Johnson Control's battery group spun off) and they only charge $60 for it. Since I was worried about the long-term viability of whatever I put in there (overcharge and standby drain concerns; I too have been rear-ended), I wanted cheap.
Image

It came with a plastic bracket on top, intended to serve as a spacer for vehicles using a top hold-down, like the Ioniq; but I was unable to get the hold-down bracket screwed in with it in place. Removing it, 1/2 inch spacers were needed to get a tight fit. I used a strip of expanded polystyrene (XPS) insulation (the pink stuff) I had sitting around, and put the spacers on top, worried that on the bottom this material would become permanently flattened by the weight of the battery over time.
Image

To get access the battery, you need to lift the cover on the back floor of the vehicle and remove the storage compartment:
Image

Lift the right side up, then tilt the end facing you up to get the pointy bit on the left side out from under the floor cover (if you haven't removed it completely). You now need to remove a plastic panel right up against the battery, shown here already tilted down out of its mounting position:
Image

There is a bit of a trick to getting this out, in that you must push the two plastic clips (circled) toward the center to release them, tilt the panel down, and then pull out the plastic tabs at the bottom. Here is a better image of what the clip looks like:
Image

You now have access to both 12 mm bolts on the hold-down bracket, and can remove it. Remove both bolts, then lift the bottom of the bracket up and pull the top down and out; it hooks in at the top so you can not pull the top end out first. 10 mm bolts hold the battery connections in place; be sure to loosen them rather than remove them, per ScorpioH's warning, above. Do the negative with the cover still closed on the positive, then loosen the positive; you don't want to short anything, even with a "dead" battery. (Also leave the red safety cap on the + pole of the new battery until you connect the + lead from the car to it.) I pulled the plastic vent plug out of the right-side vent on the original battery, then put it "somewhere safe" while finding a 1/4" OD polyethylene tube to push onto the vent line, intending to plug the end with it. Then I couldn't find it again (duh!) so I ended up plugging the tube with a set screw instead. I don't know if the system applies vacuum or anything to that vent tube, but to be safe I kept the bits and plugged the end, and I recommend you do the same if you get a battery with caps rather than vent connections. All told, this battery fit very well, though not without the top shims:
Image

I will report back here if this replacement gives me any trouble. Thanks again to those who contributed to this thread for helping others get over this hurdle.

p.s. I saw a 0.17 A standby drain (measured directly, not with an induction loop) after the vehicle sat for a good while with all the lights off. I did not see this change with the key in a Faraday cage (a metal box), near or far. With cabin lights on, the draw is around 3 A and with the trunk light above the battery on as well is it about 6 A. (Clearly these are conventional incandescent bulbs, not LED.) After replacing the battery and checking again, I did see the draw eventually drop to under 50 mA as mentioned elsewhere, but I never saw that with the dead/dying battery; it's possible a low voltage leads to a viscious cycle. Standby draw is slightly higher when connected to the charger and in no case did I observe it to change with key proximity (but that doesn't mean it can't happen).
 

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#66 ·
Cold Blast said:
I live in Minnesota, where the Ioniq plug-in is (still) not sold, so my local Hyundai dealer actually came back to me with "battery is unavailable for that vehicle." The Kia Niro, based on the same platform as the Ioniq and sold here, uses the same battery but with the terminals reversed, so that wasn't an easy option. (I would have been unlikely to have been willing to pay for those offerings anyway, frankly, given the prices people have quoted above...though perhaps some reason is creeping in of late? Not everyone charges outlandish prices for this battery: 2017-2022 Hyundai Ioniq Battery 37110-G2410 | OEM Parts Online.) I charged ahead with Chief Ski's recommendation of a BCI Group Size 26, though I went with one from Walmart. (The Plus level is actually cheaper, but wasn't available locally.) I'm not usually a Walmart fan, but I'm pretty sure their battery is made by the same folks as the Autozone (Clarios, which is Johnson Control's battery group spun off) and they only charge $60 for it. Since I was worried about the long-term viability of whatever I put in there (overcharge and standby drain concerns; I too have been rear-ended), I wanted cheap.
View attachment 45270
It came with a plastic bracket on top, intended to serve as a spacer for vehicles using a top hold-down, like the Ioniq; but I was unable to get the hold-down bracket screwed in with it in place. Removing it, 1/2 inch spacers were needed to get a tight fit. I used a strip of expanded polystyrene (XPS) insulation (the pink stuff) I had sitting around, and put the spacers on top, worried that on the bottom this material would become permanently flattened by the weight of the battery over time.
View attachment 45271
To get access the battery, you need to lift the cover on the back floor of the vehicle and remove the storage compartment:
View attachment 45272
Lift the right side up, then tilt the end facing you up to get the pointy bit on the left side out from under the floor cover (if you haven't removed it completely). You now need to remove a plastic panel right up against the battery, shown here already tilted down out of its mounting position:
View attachment 45267
There is a bit of a trick to getting this out, in that you must push the two plastic clips (circled) toward the center to release them, tilt the panel down, and then pull out the plastic tabs at the bottom. Here is a better image of what the clip looks like:
View attachment 45268
You now have access to both 12 mm bolts on the hold-down bracket, and can remove it. Remove both bolts, then lift the bottom of the bracket up and pull the top down and out; it hooks in at the top so you can not pull the top end out first. 10 mm bolts hold the battery connections in place; be sure to loosen them rather than remove them, per ScorpioH's warning, above. Do the negative with the cover still closed on the positive, then loosen the positive; you don't want to short anything, even with a "dead" battery. (Also leave the red safety cap on the + pole of the new battery until you connect the + lead from the car to it.) I pulled the plastic vent plug out of the right-side vent on the original battery, then put it "somewhere safe" while finding a 1/4" OD polyethylene tube to push onto the vent line, intending to plug the end with it. Then I couldn't find it again (duh!) so I ended up plugging the tube with a set screw instead. I don't know if the system applies vacuum or anything to that vent tube, but to be safe I kept the bits and plugged the end, and I recommend you do the same if you get a battery with caps rather than vent connections. All told, this battery fit very well, though not without the top shims:
View attachment 45269
I will report back here if this replacement gives me any trouble. Thanks again to those who contributed to this thread for helping others get over this hurdle.

p.s. I saw a 0.17 A standby drain (measured directly, not with an induction loop) after the vehicle sat for a good while with all the lights off. I did not see this change with the key in a Faraday cage (a metal box), near or far. With cabin lights on, the draw is around 3 A and with the trunk light above the battery on as well is it about 6 A. (Clearly these are conventional incandescent bulbs, not LED.) After replacing the battery and checking again, I did see the draw eventually drop to under 50 mA as mentioned elsewhere, but I never saw that with the dead/dying battery; it's possible a low voltage leads to a viscious cycle. Standby draw is slightly higher when connected to the charger and in no case did I observe it to change with key proximity (but that doesn't mean it can't happen).
Click to expand...

Just wanted to say thanks for your thorough write-up. My battery died and I was looking at a ~$600 replacement, but following your guide I replaced the battery for 1/10th that cost, and it seems to be working great so far. Hopefully any hydrogen off-gassing in the car doesn't turn my vehicle into the Hindenburg. 😁
 
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#25 ·
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#28 ·
The original battery is exactly a "H4" style and size battery, I had mine side by side, even the exact same carry handle, but the positive and negative terminals are reversed. Many common batteries have reversed or opposite terminal configuration available, BUT not all do. A few decades ago, when batteries were locally reconditioned you could have a reversed terminal battery made for you at the local battery shop.
It might be worth noting that our CMF45L battery had a sticker showing "H45", leading to the idea it was/is related to the H4 and H5 battery group. (see attached picture)
Image

I think it is plain that Hyundai made a proprietary decision in the use of a one-off or special made battery, using the H4 battery case, and reversing the terminals. Maybe one day soon the "H4 reverse" will be an off the shelf item locally.
I also decided to go with the Group 26 battery, but also understand it will out-gas into the truck area because the vent tube is not connected. I elected to leave the battery carry handle under/inside the hold down bracket, and it works to keep the battery in place perfectly, the hold down bracket seems made for it exactly. see the attached picture.
No foam rubber spacer is needed.
Image

I should also note there are Group 26R (The R means positive terminal on the Right) batteries out there which do not work for our use.
AC Delco is making sealed and vented Group 26 battery (26A or 26S), but it is not readily available. (see shared screen shot)
Image

Conversely the AC Delco 26RS battery (sealed and vented positive terminal on the right) is out everywhere it seems, I tired it myself, but again it does not work for our use. (see attached picture)
Image
 
#29 ·
6pk4sp said:
The original battery is exactly a "H4" style and size battery, I had mine side by side, even the exact same carry handle, but the positive and negative terminals are reversed. Many common batteries have reversed or opposite terminal configuration available, BUT not all do. A few decades ago, when batteries were locally reconditioned you could have a reversed terminal battery made for you at the local battery shop.
It might be worth noting that our CMF45L battery had a sticker showing "H45", leading to the idea it was/is related to the H4 and H5 battery group. (see attached picture)

I think it is plain that Hyundai made a proprietary decision in the use of a one-off or special made battery, using the H4 battery case, and reversing the terminals. Maybe one day soon the "H4 reverse" will be an off the shelf item locally.
I also decided to go with the Group 26 battery, but also understand it will out-gas into the truck area because the vent tube is not connected. I elected to leave the battery carry handle under/inside the hold down bracket, and it works to keep the battery in place perfectly, the hold down bracket seems made for it exactly. see the attached picture.
No foam rubber spacer is needed.
Click to expand...
Interesting, it seems like your duralast group 26 is slightly taller than the everstart group 26 from the earlier post and so the foam spacers we've been using aren't needed.

So far my agm battery is holding strong 2yrs later and tends to float around 12.46-12.60 in the mornings right before I get in the car and is more often than not within .01v of 12.53v.

I've only noticed a steady drop down towards 11.99v twice and that was earlier this month when I started using the car scanner app in an old iphone 8 I resuscitated. Seems like the iphone 8 has a much further bluetooth range than my main iphone 13 mini and stayed connected to the obd-ii reader I have in the car. Once I figured that out, I made sure to disconnect the app and haven't seen the voltage drop again.
 
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#33 ·
After 3 years of owning a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq PHEV, 3 jump starts needed to get it going, and now the 12V battery needs replacement, I am beginning to view it as the printer scam - just an entry purchase to hook you into expensive and frequent ink replacement (service visits).
They got me to buy a $3000 service "deal" that included everything "bumper to bumper" but now I am learning that it covers almost nothing. One of the taillights got a gentle bump in the garage from a broom as I was turning to sweep, and the plastic was so brittle that the light cover cracked. Replacement will be over $600. Closed back hatch once after loading groceries and the glass shattered everywhere. Luckily my insurance covered that. The car went to service this time because I got flashing errors "Stop the Vehicle - check regenerative braking system!" just 4 days after it had routine service visit that included brake check. Car would not start or do anything at 10:30 at night in a bad neighborhood. Next morning I got it jump-started and it was fine, no alarms, and drove to service center. They tell me new 12V replacement is needed first because of rat damage, with labor will be $720. Then they can check what the alarms were about and give me that bad news.
Was my Honda Civic just that good that I never had problems? I am appreciating my dad's 2002 Toyota, with manual windows, lights, air, and door locks. No bells or whistles.
Anyone else feeling frustrated with their Hyundai?
 
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#43 ·
bonmom said:
After 3 years of owning a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq PHEV, 3 jump starts needed to get it going, and now the 12V battery needs replacement, I am beginning to view it as the printer scam - just an entry purchase to hook you into expensive and frequent ink replacement (service visits).
They got me to buy a $3000 service "deal" that included everything "bumper to bumper" but now I am learning that it covers almost nothing. One of the taillights got a gentle bump in the garage from a broom as I was turning to sweep, and the plastic was so brittle that the light cover cracked. Replacement will be over $600. Closed back hatch once after loading groceries and the glass shattered everywhere. Luckily my insurance covered that. The car went to service this time because I got flashing errors "Stop the Vehicle - check regenerative braking system!" just 4 days after it had routine service visit that included brake check. Car would not start or do anything at 10:30 at night in a bad neighborhood. Next morning I got it jump-started and it was fine, no alarms, and drove to service center. They tell me new 12V replacement is needed first because of rat damage, with labor will be $720. Then they can check what the alarms were about and give me that bad news.
Was my Honda Civic just that good that I never had problems? I am appreciating my dad's 2002 Toyota, with manual windows, lights, air, and door locks. No bells or whistles.
Anyone else feeling frustrated with their Hyundai?
Click to expand...
The "check regenerative braking system" warning is a common symptom of a dying 12 V battery and does not indicate any lasting problem with that system if the 12 V battery is discharged. The other common symptom is that it asks you to touch the key to the start button (but a dying battery in the key itself will lead to the same thing). See Protecting your 12V battery for my advice about what may make this problem more likely. I love our Hyundais, but share your frustration with the 12 V battery in our particular vehicles.
 
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#37 ·
It looks to be a group 26 battery that has been sealed and they raised the top of the battery to allow the vent hole to be incorporated. It has the correct height now. A direct replacement substitute!
I want to share that I purchased the exact correct CMF45L on-line from a Hyundai dealer, then they Cancelled it! They refused to ship it to me saying it was hazardous material. It is why I went with the normal group 26 that I could get locally.
Please speed ahead and order your battery and let us know if it arrives.
 
#39 ·
The battery seems to be doing ok. It does seem to have a lower reserve capacity, since it drained to 11.6 volts or so overnight, after the previous day's commute, which should have topped it up. A 5 minute trickle charge brought it back to 12.5volts or so.

Only weird thing was first day my wife took it to work, she said it wouldn't start after dropping the kids off at school. But when I got there to help, she opened the door to get out, and it started right up. Maybe it was just her nerves? Can't see how it could have drained enough to not start, but then fire back on as soon as she opened the door? I do think there's some shorting potentially happening near the driver side door. Anyone has experienced something similar?
 
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#40 ·
Ioniq_dhi said:
The battery seems to be doing ok. It does seem to have a lower reserve capacity, since it drained to 11.6 volts or so overnight, after the previous day's commute, which should have topped it up. A 5 minute trickle charge brought it back to 12.5volts or so.

Only weird thing was first day my wife took it to work, she said it wouldn't start after dropping the kids off at school. But when I got there to help, she opened the door to get out, and it started right up. Maybe it was just her nerves? Can't see how it could have drained enough to not start, but then fire back on as soon as she opened the door? I do think there's some shorting potentially happening near the driver side door. Anyone has experienced something similar?
Click to expand...
Hi Ioniq_dhi ... is the battery still holding up well? Are you connecting the vent barb on the left side, and the other vent is plugged, as the original battery was?
 
#42 ·
I suspect a vented battery that can attach (or be made to attach) to the existing vent tubing might be the best way to go. I was cutting an outdoor commercial door mat to fit the trunk area and decided to take a peek at the battery, I'm starting to notice slight bulging on the sides. I may need to start looking at replacements just in case this starts getting worse.
 
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#47 ·
ScorpioH said:
I was able to pick up and replace the 12v battery I had ordered for my car from NAPA auto parts. Ever since summer if I don't drive for about 2 days to charge the car turning on the car would give all sorts of errors and had to jump start (plugin my lithium booster pack to the car) twice since summer. I'm at 50k mi and so the dealer refused to budge on replacing it under warranty and wanted $500 plus labor for the battery. I wound up replacing the CMF45R-DIN 45Ah (20HR) battery that was in the trunk of my car with an Odyssey Extreme PC1200LT AGM BCI 26 battery.

I'd say it's a 90%fit. The batteries are almost identical in dimensions. To get the battery to be properly strapped in I had to use some foam pads I had since it's a bit shorter, from being fully sealed compared to the old one and doesn't have the extra plastic bits at the top. Also, the terminals are a bit more forward on the new battery and so I had to leave the negative terminal somewhat askew so the plastic door/trim can fit where it belongs.

Here's hoping this lasts more than 2yrs. On my previous hybrid car, I also had to replace flooded battery with an agm for slightly better performance after the stock battery died after 2yrs and it made it 3yrs w/o issue before the car was totaled.


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Looking for a little help here. I kind of screwed up.
I got the Odyssey battery myself, but the battery terminals are reverse and I cannot get the battery cables to reach and be connected. Any ideas?
 
#48 ·
Oh no! I dont think there's enough wiggle room on the positive side to have the new battery in backwards. You could replace the negative with a new one and then perhaps figure out a way to run a short extension of sorts off the positive. Honestly, if the store accepts refunds/exchanges that may be the easiest option.
 
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#52 ·
Another one here with dead battery. 2019 Ioniq Plug in Limited. Dealer basically said sorry can’t help you, battery has been on backorder for months. So I went the Odyssey route. Nov 2023 this one was 355 at Napa. You can see the size difference. I realized though, using the cardboard from the box it came in was the perfect size to fill the gaps. Thanks to the forum! Now only time will tell how long this one lasts. But theoretically there is a warranty with it now.
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#53 ·
Scootr9718 said:
Another one here with dead battery. 2019 Ioniq Plug in Limited. Dealer basically said sorry can’t help you, battery has been on backorder for months. So I went the Odyssey route. Nov 2023 this one was 355 at Napa. You can see the size difference. I realized though, using the cardboard from the box it came in was the perfect size to fill the gaps. Thanks to the forum! Now only time will tell how long this one lasts. But theoretically there is a warranty with it now.
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Looking at yours I like the idea of cardboard at the bottom to keep it locked in the center of the bracket. Mines starting to rub as it shifts/is resting on one side of the lower bracket.

I also need to start looking at ordering a new one. I noticed this summer the left and right sides of mine are beginning to bulge since it's fully sealed and can't vent like the original one. Voltages still seem fine according to my battery monitor. Maybe a bit lower since it likes to hold around 12.4xV.
 
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#55 ·
Exide does not appear to be a rather popular brand out here. Around me there are 3 distributors listed on the exide website that are 15-30miles from me. I had bought an Exide for my previous car (Honda Insight gen2) because I wanted to switch to AGM since on that car everything ran from the 12v battery and wanted something with a bit bigger of a buffer. I had to go out of my way to buy the Exide since they were the only ones I could find that made an AGM in my size battery at the time.
 
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