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[DIY] Lowbeam Headlight Change

87K views 56 replies 19 participants last post by  bob_2022 
#1 ·
I changed my low beams on my 2017 BEV SE w/CCP and took some quick pictures.

Hopefully this write up helps anyone interested in changing their low beams.

*Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage that occurs to your vehicle if you decide to follow this procedure. I attempted to remove and install new bulbs the easiest and best way possible, but everyone's vehicle may be different in respect to parts being seized or flaws in manufacturing or quite simply using brute force when you shouldn't be.*

*Tools Needed*
1. Rubber Gloves
2. H7 bulbs (2 bulbs)
3. Warm weather, heat gun or hair dryer

Step 1.
Make sure car is off.

Step 2.
Find headlight assembly cap which is located inside the engine bay, behind the headlight enclosure. The low beams on the SE are the furthest and unfortunately the hardest to get access too.


Step 3.
Rotate the cap in a counter-clockwise direction if you are standing in front of the headlight. Their is a rubber seal that will make it feel tight, but it will move slowly. The cap rotates 90 degress then will stop.


Step 4.
You will need finger nails or something thin to pull the cap from the headlight housing as rotating it will not pull it away from the assembly as the rotation is only a 90 degree turn to lock it in place.


Step 5.
Inside the headlight enclosure you will see 2 yellow wires, those are the wires for the low beam bulb. The bulb fits into a holder that rotates I believe 45 degress.
*Note: This step if done in cold temperatures will be difficult as the parts are metal against plastic. If you decide to do this part in the cold use a heat gun at a low temperature for a short period of time, or a hair dryer, warming the plastic up to room temperature will make this part and the install much easier.


Step 6.
Make sure you have rubber gloves on because you do not want to touch the bulbs glass with your fingers, the oils are a great way to shorten the lifespan of the bulb. The entire bulb assembly will pull straight out.


Step 7.
The H7 bulb is a pressure fit 2 prong, so simply grab the base of the bulb and pull out of it's plastic holder.


Step 8.
The new bulb will fit in, in the exact same place, you cannot install it wrong as the plastic holder allows the base of the H7 bulb to fit only in one direction because of a tab the bulb base has which you might be able to see in my picture from Step 7.

Step 9.
Try to navigate the bulb back into the headlight assembly as best you can, it's a tight spot.


Step 10.
Rotate the bulb housing back and forth when back in the headlight assembly. You will feel the notches fall back into place and you will be able to rotate the headlight 45 degrees and it will click back into place. This step will also be easier if the plastic bulb holder is warm. Not hot, but warm. Trying to click it back into place at below zero makes it feel like the tabs will break and it will not click into place easy at all.

Once done, wait until night and enjoy your work.


I purchased 4900k bulbs off Amazon Link Here. I do not believe they are a true 4900K, but they are noticeably brighter than stock and definitely more white. I forgot to take a before and after picture so instead I parked the car and turned on the headlights, the left side unit is the halogen parking light using the same colour tone as stock, as you can see the low beams on the right are a noticeable white. They closer match the LED runners in the front bumper.

Hopefully this write up helps others in replacing their bulbs and keeping the cash some cash in their pockets.;)
 
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#13 ·
I never checked for energy savings. But if I was to put money on it I would bet I am using a small amount more. The whiter the light the more energy is needed. I think LED is the exception to the rule, but for incandescent I have heard to get closer to white the bulb needs to burn more energy and hotter which shortens its life span. I only really did it because the egg shell yellow color looks bad to me.
 
#15 ·
If you cannot get your hand in the space, you might be able to use a channel lock wrench. But I would wrap the tips in something like electrical tape to keep from scratching the plastic if it slips. The first break is the hardest, once you get it, you will find future removals easier. I don't know if it's the expansion and contraction or from the initial installation at the factory.
 
#18 ·
OK, I did it, great result.
 

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#23 ·
#24 ·
Thank you for providing the parts required for this swap. Is it necessary to modify the connection of the OEM bulb connector? There is not a lot of room in the headlight housing but having a extended cover I would have thought would provide the extra room to fit everything.
 
#27 ·
OMG is there a removal/install tool that to get the inner portion removed and installed back? I got the dust cover on but I cant get the inner portion with the headlight bulb out. There's almost no room for my hand to reach inside for a good enough grip. Why did Hyundai have to make it so difficult, its so dumb.

If there was a removal/install tool that you can slip on to have more grip to turn that would make it easy, right now I can feel one side of the flap but I barely can get my finger on the opposite end flap to start turning.
 
#28 ·
Yes it's very tight and you can't see what you are doing. I found that applying some heat, with a hair dryer, made it much easier to rotate and remove that plastic base. Good luck.
 
#34 ·
Here are some pics of my install for passenger side. Removal of the OEM bulb holder is a must. Getting the LED into socket with after market holder is a challenge. Even with groves the LED bulb comes loose very easily. On the passenger side the bulb is not secured on the holder and there is free play as I can touch the heat sink and move it around. It doesn't seem like it will fall out however since the build holder itself is secure it's just how the bulb sits in the holder that is the issue. Getting dust cap back on requires alot of force pushing backwards and twisting as heatsink does touch the back of the cover of the dust cap. I guess it might be a good things as extra pressure to keep the bulb from moving around. I will do drivers side next but there is even less room to work on the drivers side.
 

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#36 ·
I used Katana LED's. I am happy with them so far (only installed 3 weeks ago). I share @ngolf's comments about the bulb being somewhat loose in the after market bulb holder. But that is not the bulb's fault, it is the after market holder that does not provide a good clamping for the bulb. Anyhow, the link for the Katana LED's is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=ioniqforumconvert-20. I picked these because they are the top rated low budget (less than $50) bulb for projector-style headlights as reviewed here https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/projectors.html.

Paul
 
#37 ·
Both sides done now

The driver's side was a pain to do as the stock bulb holder was really tight. I used a cut out of the bottom of an old plastic BBQ brush handle which was big enough to almost cover the stock bracket and give me leverage to twist. Doing so by hand was impossible for me and both my hands are banged up just for trying. I used some glue to hold the H7 bracket onto the aftermarket holder. By installing just the bracket and adapter first then carefully side the LED bulb in I was able to install everything without the bulb popping loose. I didn't want an LED with external driver as that would mean having to drill holes in dust cover. I may swap to HID later on but I have noticed power draw has gone down using LEDs.
 
#39 ·
I changed my low beams on my 2017 BEV SE w/CCP and took some quick pictures.
I was wondering why you left "low hanging fruit" - side marker bulb (194) unchanged. I looks like there is small plug next to the low beam cover. It is most likely designed to hold the bulb and contain integrated circuit to make connection inside the light when secured. Anyone can confirm my guesses on changing it.
 
#43 ·
For me the turn signal was not worth changing because it's amber. My only goal was to change any bulb that would look better white but was using egg shell yellow halogen.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I think the whole thing would be easier, if you just remove the light from the car. It is just 2 easily accessible bolts on top and a push forward from the light back side and it pops right out, then it is very easy to perform any bulb change or modifications. If you concern with scratching exterior parts during manipulations - just tape perimeter with paint tape. This is how Hyundai designed this lights to make it easy to remove/install for maintenance.
 
#42 ·
Unfortunately this one has "chin" that goes below front grille panel and has support to secure small grille "skirt" under the light, but I think it is possible to remove top clips holding grille and it would allow to push light forward to disengage 2 lower slide mounts and then detach grille "skirt' from the light and tilt light upward and completely remove from vehicle.
 
#47 ·
#48 ·
I changed my low beams on my 2017 BEV SE w/CCP and took some quick pictures.

Hopefully this write up helps anyone interested in changing their low beams.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage that occurs to your vehicle if you decide to follow this procedure. I attempted to remove and install new bulbs the easiest and best way possible, but everyone's vehicle may be different in respect to parts being seized or flaws in manufacturing or quite simply using brute force when you shouldn't be.

Tools Needed
1. Rubber Gloves
2. H7 bulbs (2 bulbs)
3. Warm weather, heat gun or hair dryer

Step 1.
Make sure car is off.

Step 2.
Find headlight assembly cap which is located inside the engine bay, behind the headlight enclosure. The low beams on the SE are the furthest and unfortunately the hardest to get access too.


Step 3.
Rotate the cap in a counter-clockwise direction if you are standing in front of the headlight. Their is a rubber seal that will make it feel tight, but it will move slowly. The cap rotates 90 degress then will stop.


Step 4.
You will need finger nails or something thin to pull the cap from the headlight housing as rotating it will not pull it away from the assembly as the rotation is only a 90 degree turn to lock it in place.


Step 5.
Inside the headlight enclosure you will see 2 yellow wires, those are the wires for the low beam bulb. The bulb fits into a holder that rotates I believe 45 degress.
*Note: This step if done in cold temperatures will be difficult as the parts are metal against plastic. If you decide to do this part in the cold use a heat gun at a low temperature for a short period of time, or a hair dryer, warming the plastic up to room temperature will make this part and the install much easier.


Step 6.
Make sure you have rubber gloves on because you do not want to touch the bulbs glass with your fingers, the oils are a great way to shorten the lifespan of the bulb. The entire bulb assembly will pull straight out.


Step 7.
The H7 bulb is a pressure fit 2 prong, so simply grab the base of the bulb and pull out of it's plastic holder.


Step 8.
The new bulb will fit in, in the exact same place, you cannot install it wrong as the plastic holder allows the base of the H7 bulb to fit only in one direction because of a tab the bulb base has which you might be able to see in my picture from Step 7.

Step 9.
Try to navigate the bulb back into the headlight assembly as best you can, it's a tight spot.


Step 10.
Rotate the bulb housing back and forth when back in the headlight assembly. You will feel the notches fall back into place and you will be able to rotate the headlight 45 degrees and it will click back into place. This step will also be easier if the plastic bulb holder is warm. Not hot, but warm. Trying to click it back into place at below zero makes it feel like the tabs will break and it will not click into place easy at all.

Once done, wait until night and enjoy your work.


I purchased 4900k bulbs off Amazon Link Here. I do not believe they are a true 4900K, but they are noticeably brighter than stock and definitely more white. I forgot to take a before and after picture so instead I parked the car and turned on the headlights, the left side unit is the halogen parking light using the same colour tone as stock, as you can see the low beams on the right are a noticeable white. They closer match the LED runners in the front bumper.

Hopefully this write up helps others in replacing their bulbs and keeping the cash some cash in their pockets.;)
THANK YOU !
very helpful,
I usually change my own bulbs on my cars, ( except when you need a 10 y/o hands, no kids )
 
#51 ·
It's been awhile since I did this so I hope I'm thinking of the right part.

If it's cold out I found it's harder to break free and start turning the bulb holder. If you can get a bit of heat in that area it helps. Not plastic melting heat, just warmer than it has been outside lately. Other users on this post have recommended ideas that help to get a better grip on the bulb housing since it's in an awkward place. I would try those suggestions if possible.

If I'm not thinking of the correct spot you are having trouble, can you post a picture of the trouble spot?
 
#53 ·
Sorry, I completely forgot to answer that question. It will follow the same direction as the cap I believe. So if your facing the car front it should be counter clockwise. The first time will be tight as heck. Once it breaks free it's oddly easy to do after.
 
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